Cruise Issues

[MasterGuns]

I have been trying to figure out what could be wrong with my 86's CC system but all to no avail. The bike has developed two issues really. First it won't set speed. When hitting the Set button, the Set light illuminates but the system does not set. If I use the "Resume" but it sets the current speed and decels and accels normally. The other issue is that once the speed is set using the "Resume" button, it seems not to hold speed and slowly decelerates but I don't believe it ever shuts down completely even after dropping 5 mph or more. I have replaced the CC Unit with a known good unit and cleanted the Set/Resume switch and know it is working properly. I have also concluded the issue can't be the vacuum pump otherwise it wouldn't set speed at all nor the acutater pump for the same reason. I have all concluded the "speed sensor" may need to be replaced but after reviewing several threads and the service manual, no where is the Speed Sensor even shown. Where is the doggone Speed Sensor anyway, and could it be causing my issues or at least the "not holding a steady speed" issue? Is the speed sensor inside the speedometer and must be replaced as an entire dash or something?Anyone with more experience than I have with this system, I sure would appreciate your advise as to what possibly I should be looking for. Thanks so much.

[Silverado6x6]

I bought an 89 a couple of weeks ago, mine lights up and everything, nice pretty lights at night, does't work though, cruise control on a bike is still like cream cheese and bagels to me. I havn't felt an overpowering need to investigate the problem but many say its usually in the clutch switch.

[MasterGuns]

No, in my first post I failed to mention that I did disassemble both the brake and clutch switches and both are operating properly. Clean and lubed with dielectric grease anyway. Once the speed is set using the Resume button (as I stated in my first post) the clutch switch or front brake switch will deactivate/cancel the cruise. However, the foot brake will not cancel the cruise. I wonder if it could be due the fact that I have two LED bulbs in the tail light and there isn't enough draw for the system to recognize. Just a thought though because the front does induce cancellation. Anway, not the clutch switch.

[dingy]

Speed sensor is in the speedometer head, above where the cable enters housing. It is a reed swich, which is triggered by a magnet in the speedometer assembly.

Something else to check is the free play in the 5th throttle cable, one going from bellows to the cable junction box. There is an adjuster in this cable. Left front outer and inner fairing need to be removed. There should be 1/16" free play in cable.

Gary

[jasonm.]

No, in my first post I failed to mention that I did disassemble both the brake and clutch switches and both are operating properly. Clean and lubed with dielectric grease anyway. Once the speed is set using the Resume button (as I stated in my first post) the clutch switch or front brake switch will deactivate/cancel the cruise. However, the foot brake will not cancel the cruise. I wonder if it could be due the fact that I have two LED bulbs in the tail light and there isn't enough draw for the system to recognize. Just a thought though because the front does induce cancellation. Anway, not the clutch switch.

 

I hope you did NOT put dielectric grease on any electrical contacts. Definition of dielectric is insulator. Meaning to prevent electricity from flowing. I'm just saying this so that some day your brake lights don't fail to operate. I have worked on electronics for close to 40 years. This is a common misunderstanding of what this stuff is for. It has no ability of promoting contact. It was designed for plastic and rubber to keep moisture from getting into electrics.

[Flyinfool]

I have LEDs everywhere on my 88 and there is no problem with the rear brake canceling the cruise. You might want to clean the rear brake switch just to rule it out.

 

Your issue could also be a weak vacuum pump.

The max speed that my cruse will hold has been slowly dropping. I believe it is a weak pump that can only pull so hard. There was a post a while back where someone had similar issues and a brand new pump made it work like new again. I can not find that post now.

[dingy]

No, in my first post I failed to mention that I did disassemble both the brake and clutch switches and both are operating properly. Clean and lubed with dielectric grease anyway. Once the speed is set using the Resume button (as I stated in my first post) the clutch switch or front brake switch will deactivate/cancel the cruise. However, the foot brake will not cancel the cruise. I wonder if it could be due the fact that I have two LED bulbs in the tail light and there isn't enough draw for the system to recognize. Just a thought though because the front does induce cancellation. Anway, not the clutch switch.

 

The cruise circuit is independent of the brake light circuit, other than a common 12v+ feed that is shared at the rear brake. There are two contact pairs in each of the three switches (front brake, rear brake & clutch)

LED's are not involved in cruise circuit at all.

Gary

[MasterGuns]

I hope you did NOT put dielectric grease on any electrical contacts. Definition of dielectric is insulator. Meaning to prevent electricity from flowing. I'm just saying this so that some day your brake lights don't fail to operate. I have worked on electronics for close to 40 years. This is a common misunderstanding of what this stuff is for. It has no ability of promoting contact. It was designed for plastic and rubber to keep moisture from getting into electrics.

 

 

No, just the plastic connectors so that the next time I pull them apart it isn't so difficult.

[MasterGuns]

Speed sensor is in the speedometer head, above where the cable enters housing. It is a reed swich, which is triggered by a magnet in the speedometer assembly.

 

Something else to check is the free play in the 5th throttle cable, one going from bellows to the cable junction box. There is an adjuster in this cable. Left front outer and inner fairing need to be removed. There should be 1/16" free play in cable.

 

Gary

 

Thanks Gary; is that the left side as one is sitting on the bike or from a front view? And by the way, the ignitech works great. Sure did smooth out the engine quite a bit; very noticeable. A much smoother operating motor and noticably more power. Even got it to mount on top of the air box. Great investment in this 1st Gen. Thanks.

[dingy]

Thanks Gary; is that the left side as one is sitting on the bike or from a front view? And by the way, the ignitech works great. Sure did smooth out the engine quite a bit; very noticeable. A much smoother operating motor and noticably more power. Even got it to mount on top of the air box. Great investment in this 1st Gen. Thanks.

 

Left side when sitting on bike.

Port side.

Gary

[Donvito]

These pictures are from the front left side of my fairing. Is this the actuator cable adjustment or is it something else? I can reach under and check the free play without removing the fairing on my 87 VR.