SparkPlug Removal and setting the gap

[BSGODFATHER1]

First time changing the sparkplugs, Any tips to make it go faster? I have big hands and the plugs are as you know in a tight spot. Also it had autolite plugs in it. I bought Champion RA6HC

because the guy behind the counter said they would do the job. I can not seem to find the info for the gap setting. Help!

[dingy]

.031"-.035" is factory spec.

 

Gary

[dacheedah]

1. Use your compressor to blow out dirt in the area of the plug.

2. Remove old plug

3. apply anti seize to new plugs

4. Use a piece of hose that will fit over the sparkplug to ease it to the hole and start the plug to finger tight or use your socket and hand only to insert it. If it binds stop and back it up start over.

5. Tighten to 13 ft lbs

[Silverado6x6]

A good swivel spark plug socket and an extension will clear the plastic cover, I use Snapon but you can get basic non ball and pin swivel sockets at Napa, Sears, Lowes etc. 18mm for most plugs or 5/8 for as some use the Autolites, I prefer the the stock plugs myself.

[Condor]

Here's a few thoughts for big handed folks. To get the plugs 'loose' use the sparkplug socket and the flat 19mm box end that come in the OEM tool kit. If the '83 didn't come with a kit shop eBay for a 2ndGen kit. They don't bring near the $ they are asking for a 1stGen. Just make sure it has the sparkplug socket and the flat box ends with handle. Those are the items your interested in. To removed the plugs use 12" of 5/16" fuel line and jamb it down over the porcelain and unscrew. Use the kit socket to start the threads when installing, and then finish off with the hose and tighten with the kit socket. I use the out of the box gap they come with, and NGK's only. Always take note of what the tips look like as a good indicator of fuel mix, ring condition, etc....

[BSGODFATHER1]

Thanks a lot, all of you. This is by far the best 12 bucks I have spent in a long time.

My 1983 Venture is still plagued with a short also the Dash Panel Assembly is a mess. I am bidding on a used one now. This bike as some of you know was given to me free by a son-in-law.(HD man didn't want a jap bike around) I have not had a bike since the 90's and really have no experience at this type of repair so I am using this forum picking your brains and slowly trying to work through things.

 

Thanks again

 

Brian

[Marcarl]

Thanks a lot, all of you. This is by far the best 12 bucks I have spent in a long time.

My 1983 Venture is still plagued with a short also the Dash Panel Assembly is a mess. I am bidding on a used one now. This bike as some of you know was given to me free by a son-in-law.(HD man didn't want a jap bike around) I have not had a bike since the 90's and really have no experience at this type of repair so I am using this forum picking your brains and slowly trying to work through things.

 

Thanks again

 

Brian

Pick away Brian, we're here to help,,,, and to BS if we don't know what to do to help, and to poke fun at each other,,, well only sometimes, and then sometimes more often, so if you get caught in the middle,,, look out.

[KIC]

Definitely use some hose to turn the plug in and out. You will need an 18MM THIN walled socket to fit down to the plugs.

[Evan]

Definitely use some hose to turn the plug in and out. You will need an 18MM THIN walled socket to fit down to the plugs.

 

I recall this suggestion also made by Condor in the past. I have been using my ratchet with a flex head and either a short extension or a flex joint. Worked ok. However, due to reading this thread, I tried using some gas line hose today when I changed my plugs. Sure works good and I now carry a hose in my tool kit. What a great site.

[syscrusher]

Just did this myself today. I used hose to start the plug and to spin it most of the way in. You don't have enough torque with the hose to do any damage if you didn't get the plug aimed properly to begin with. For aiming I use the hose but then grab the plug with a big needle nose plier and draw it toward you, this usually gets it in the right spot.

 

For the tough stuff I used a 13mm Gearwrench with a 3/8" socket insert and a thin walled 18mm deep well socket (Lowes Kobalt). The Gearwrench has a very tight rachet, much better than my cheap ratchets. It's also very compact for tight spaces.

http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/combination/

http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/lstgj.lxcoa/v/vspfiles/photos/KDT-9230-2.jpg?1329289691

 

I keep my finger on some part of it so that it doesn't reverse and just keep cranking a little at a time. Watch out for the "ears" of a hose clamp right next to the plug, one on either side. I ended up just under these but you can move them a bit to the side with your long nosed pliers.

[Triple J]

The way I do it is take a small piece of TP and put over the plug, stick it in your socket and it will stay in place as you use it to finger tighten. Then just put your wratchet on and snug down. If the TP stays behind just use your air compressor to blow it out since you already have it there to blow out hole prior to removing plug

[camos]

Just did this myself today. I used hose to start the plug and to spin it most of the way in. You don't have enough torque with the hose to do any damage if you didn't get the plug aimed properly to begin with. For aiming I use the hose but then grab the plug with a big needle nose plier and draw it toward you, this usually gets it in the right spot.

This is how I do it as well. Without the pliers, it might take one try or 20 tries to get the threads started. I keep the hose in the OEM tool bag which will give you an idea how long the hose is.

[cowpuc]

I like my 1/4 drive socket with the correct lengths of extentions BUT, I used that cheapy little stamped plug wrench with that funky tool kit stamped out boxed end wrench (like Condor mentioned) on the end of it for many years - sucker worked remarkably well!! I like to run my plugs on the tighter side of gap spec - .032, seems like they like to expand after a few trips cross country..

Oh yea,, careful gapping Iridium, that tiny electrode is really sensitive to breakage..

[greg_in_london]

I used iridium plugs for a while - they might have been good or lasted longer, but I didn't keep good enough records to be sure.

 

I was put off using Champion spark plugs years ago though as they had way too many duds, so changing spark plugs to eliminate a possible problem became too hit and miss. They might have improved in 25-30 years, but I've had no reason to go back.

[dna9656]

Old rule of thumb: AC DELCO for GM, Champion for Chryslers, Autolite for Fords and now Bosch in anything except Motorcycles.

When seeking advice on plugs for Metric (Japanese) bikes everyone has always said use the NKGs. I'm on my 3rd bike and have never had a plug issue.

[dna9656]

Old rule of thumb: AC DELCO for GM, Champion for Chryslers, Autolite for Fords and now Bosch in anything except Motorcycles.

When seeking advice on plugs for Metric (Japanese) bikes everyone has always said use the NKGs. I'm on my 3rd bike and have never had a plug issue.

When changing plugs on the XVZ I use a really long spark plug socket and no extensions. I think I got the socket at HF or some other off brand source. It's about 6" long maybe more; it has the 6 sided top to use a wrench to turn it. It's been my unfortunate exp. to break a spark plug when using universals or swivel headed sockets. Most likely my poor use of tooling than the type of tool being used as some here use swivel head sockets and universals.

Did ya all see that double action ratchet at Lowe's, it keeps turning in the desired rotation with every swing of the ratchet handle. $26.00 please. I don't think it's a Kobalt catalog item. It doesn't show up on the Lowe's site.