class plugs location

[rbig1]

soldered the board in controller 3 times. get readings. sometime wont kick in compressor just clicks keep hitting button will work eventually. i believe its a connection how many and where are they want to fix it tomorrow. going to state fair and up to kids house thurs and fri. could use leveling without hassle. dont want to drive cage as i told myself have to sell if i dont reach 3000 miles this year have 500 to go. got to make it, got to make it. pretty bad that i have to force myself to finish it. bought it to ride. more repairs

[Condor]

soldered the board in controller 3 times. get readings. sometime wont kick in compressor just clicks keep hitting button will work eventually. i believe its a connection how many and where are they want to fix it tomorrow. going to state fair and up to kids house thurs and fri. could use leveling without hassle. dont want to drive cage as i told myself have to sell if i dont reach 3000 miles this year have 500 to go. got to make it, got to make it. pretty bad that i have to force myself to finish it. bought it to ride. more repairs

 

I eventually got the one on the '91 to work after 3 tries. Big PITA. However... how long are you waiting for the CLASS to respond. Sometimes it takes what seems like forever, I think the chip speed is about 1 or 2 hrtz... If you're expecting it to perk right up you need to pack a lunch... Also try cleaning the multi plug. Clean the power leads too. Even though you're getting power.

[Marcarl]

First off, when you re-solder you need to de-solder first. That means heating the solder that is presently there and getting rid of it. I use a vacuum tool that does that very nicely. After that is done, clean with contact cleaner and then re-solder.

Secondly, the problem could also lie in the connectors under the trunk. Take them apart, clean with contact cleaner and put them back together,, no grease involved.

[dingy]

soldered the board in controller 3 times. get readings. sometime wont kick in compressor just clicks keep hitting button will work eventually. i believe its a connection how many and where are they want to fix it tomorrow. going to state fair and up to kids house thurs and fri. could use leveling without hassle. dont want to drive cage as i told myself have to sell if i dont reach 3000 miles this year have 500 to go. got to make it, got to make it. pretty bad that i have to force myself to finish it. bought it to ride. more repairs

 

There is also a 13 pin plug along the upper left rear sub frame rail. You have to remove seat to get to it. This has the rear lighting & compressor wiring in it, then after it under trunk and plastic lid, there are 3 more connectors near the compressor.

 

Gary

[rbig1]

well cleaned all plugs today. made no difference in unit. other than code 2 showing up now. auto settings work if you play with plug on control head and so does manual control took brackets off back so i can lift it up and make it work. i think its the center pin that acting up. pull on wire and works push and it dies. thinking i need to put jumper wire on board. dont have a good way to desolder. used a hose before ate solder. swirled solder with solder tool

still the same. any ideas

[rbig1]

ok there is a compressor motor relay behind headlamp. any one know witch one is it. none of mine are held in place anymore. all mixed up. is it a 5 prong or what. no markings

[Marcarl]

If you are playing with the plug on the back of the control unit, and that makes it work,,,, your problem is still in the control unit. Been there, done that, until I de-soldered and then resoldered. If you don't have a sucker, then it's best to get one, they're not expensive, should be where ever a soldering iron is sold. HF, Home Depot, Farm Fleet, Lowes, Pep Boys,,,,,

[dacheedah]

If you are playing with the plug on the back of the control unit, and that makes it work,,,, your problem is still in the control unit. Been there, done that, until I de-soldered and then resoldered. If you don't have a sucker, then it's best to get one, they're not expensive, should be where ever a soldering iron is sold. HF, Home Depot, Farm Fleet, Lowes, Pep Boys,,,,,

 

I always had good luck with desoldering braid. Soaks the solder up.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rbig1]

well all be never herd of the braid. will see if i can find it. have so many tools trying not to buy more. trying to keep from buying gutter forming machine right now. probibly going to loose battle.

[rbig1]

bought the braid and a bulb. will have to be on hold till sat afternoon to try. the braid looks like coax cable ground. f+fleet,menards, orielly never had got from radio shack

[Flyinfool]

The braid is just that, copper braid, the solder wicks right up into the braid. works great.

For old crusty solder like what is on these old circuit boards it helps to add a bit of rosin flux to the braid. Rosin flux is also from Radio Shack. DO NOT USE acid flux like what is used for plumbing, acid and electronics do not mix well.

[rbig1]

ok i have done this quite a few times now. still dont work. tested all terminals on back. the one to the motor relay.when you touch with tester it will work. have very small tester probes cant be making pressure contact. unless wire on terminal plug bad. loosing my cool have to walk away for a few hours.

[rbig1]

got it!!! got a bigger watt gun. made it sizzle pop. some go some blow. didnt want to put that kind of heat to it. soldered like water pipe. just no acid.

[JohnT]

Wish I could solder light stuff. Things get smoky when I try. And melty. And useless.

[rbig1]

thats what i thought was going to happen.