chag67 Posted August 7, 2013 #1 Posted August 7, 2013 I know one option is the 1.5" riser. I have ordered one and I hope that it will push the bar closer to me past the fairing to where I can rotate the handle bars forward giving me the extra height. If that doesn't work, is there anything else that will give me a 2-3 inch rise in the handle bars? I
bongobobny Posted August 7, 2013 #2 Posted August 7, 2013 Flanders makes a set of handlebars that gives you a 4" pullback...
rickardracing Posted August 7, 2013 #3 Posted August 7, 2013 I know one option is the 1.5" riser. I have ordered one and I hope that it will push the bar closer to me past the fairing to where I can rotate the handle bars forward giving me the extra height. If that doesn't work, is there anything else that will give me a 2-3 inch rise in the handle bars? I If you ordered the spacers for the bars and have an after market chrome ignition cover, it's going to hit it and buckle it at full lock. Some people don't care/worry about it, but when I put those on mine and it did it, I took them off and sent them back. No use of putting chrome on and then scratching it all up. Kind of defeats the purpose of adding the bling.
Guest Posted August 7, 2013 #4 Posted August 7, 2013 I had the Barons risers for years until my recent Flanders bars update. The risers will work fine but as stated they will hit the ignition cover at full lock. I had the chrome cover and had to go back to the stock cover but it wasnt a big deal for me. The Barons will raise the height to a more comfortable level but the Flanders bars will give you that same height plus they have a more pull back feel. You can get away with the stock cables with the risers although some manipulation of the throttle cable may be necessary. With the Flanders bars you need a 2" longer cable. Im sure you will like the Barons risers.
chag67 Posted August 7, 2013 Author #5 Posted August 7, 2013 Thanks for the comments Ruffy. I'm 6'7" and I feel like my hands are at my knees when riding right now.
bongobobny Posted August 7, 2013 #6 Posted August 7, 2013 If you go with the Barons and the Flanders you will need longer throttle cables, more like 3" to 4", and longer brake and clutch lines. With both it should put the grips just about where you want them! As Richardracing mentioned the chrome ignition switch will interfere with full turn, but realistically those plastic chrome pieces end up getting all scratched up without risers! With the risers you may want to drill and tap holes for installing phony handlebar type extensions to keep your rubber mounts for the fairings. These extensions only have to be a couple inches long...
dacheedah Posted August 7, 2013 #7 Posted August 7, 2013 rstd bars , you will need the stock end weights as the rsv won't fit them. This is a better option than the risers, had risers and switched to these. Downside is they are wider and put your hands outside the fairing. need 2 1/2 longer throttle and pullback cables.
chag67 Posted August 7, 2013 Author #8 Posted August 7, 2013 Are the extensions for the rubber mounts to the fairing required for the riser to work properly? I'm going to try the riser first. If I need more height, I'll likely go with the Flanders bar too. Is the installation of the riser difficult? I'm not mechanically inclined at all. Do the bolts have to be tightened to a specific torque?
bongobobny Posted August 7, 2013 #9 Posted August 7, 2013 Not required, but a good idea. The mod is more for the fairing vibration. Ruffy has full details on how to do it, but basically you drill and tap for 1/4 - 16 or 5/16, and then McGuiver some short pieces of 1" diameter metal...
chag67 Posted August 7, 2013 Author #10 Posted August 7, 2013 Do the extended bolts that come with the riser require to be tightened to a specific torque or can I just tighten them to where I don't strip the threads?
RedRider Posted August 7, 2013 #11 Posted August 7, 2013 They should be torqued to a specific torque. 23 Nm or 17 ftlb. You can pinch the rubber dampers between the handlebars and the fairing and they will stay. I suggest you have a second (and maybe a third) person to help hold everything in place as you tighten the clamps down. Without the rubber dampers, the fairing flexes and will likely crack. To install the risers is not hard, just cumbersome. It helps a lot (I'm 6'4"). Also, the risers will hit the ignition cover. I just cut the cover to create the clearance needed. It is just plastic. But then, I don't really show off my bike unless it just had its annual bath. RR
chag67 Posted August 7, 2013 Author #12 Posted August 7, 2013 Can someone post a link to the Flanders handlebars? I'm having trouble navigating their webpage to find a picture of what you guys are talking about.
chag67 Posted August 7, 2013 Author #13 Posted August 7, 2013 Also RR, after you installed the risers, are you able to rotate the bars forward more to give a bit more height in the handlebars? I know they won't be near my shoulder height but I want the ends of the handlebars not to hit my knees when turning in parking lots. Did you feel less tension in your shoulders after installing the risers?
dacheedah Posted August 7, 2013 #14 Posted August 7, 2013 Have a helper, put a comforter over tank to prevent scratching, snug the bolts to the point you can just move the bars. Put them where you want and snug to hold then torque. Remember dimples on top. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dacheedah Posted August 7, 2013 #15 Posted August 7, 2013 U may find someone that wants to swap rstd bars for rsv, same dimentions as Flanders except for width. Its a common swap or just save the risers and go strait to buckeye. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Guest Posted August 8, 2013 #16 Posted August 8, 2013 Can someone post a link to the Flanders handlebars? I'm having trouble navigating their webpage to find a picture of what you guys are talking about. https://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=650-08763 https://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=102-90-30006/102-90-40006 I have dealt with Phat Performance a few times and was satisfied with them and their customer service.
Gary N. Posted August 8, 2013 #17 Posted August 8, 2013 When I experimented with the Barons risers I just wedged a piece of 1" thick rubber between each riser and the fairing. When I switched to Flanders the stock rubbers went back in place.
chag67 Posted August 18, 2013 Author #18 Posted August 18, 2013 So I installed the Baron's 1.5" risers yesterday. By myself too. Took me about 20 min. I was able wiggle one side and then the other. I guess I was lucky and didn't have to manipulate any of the wires or cables. I was also able to pinch the rubber spacers back between the handlebar and the fairing (very tough). After installing the risers, I was able to rotate the bars forward, giving me a much need height increase. I'm 6'7" so any height is greatly appreciated. I will still likely go with the Flanders bars but these risers will work for now. I went for a ride and love the new feel. I also feel more smooth and in better control through tight slow turns. Rotated the break and clutch and side mirrors. I know this will help my back and shoulders on longer rides. While I was at it, I removed the double move trunk latch. I hated that.
TCK04RSV Posted November 2, 2014 #19 Posted November 2, 2014 All of the advertised risers state that they have been tested to work with the stock lines. Maybe, but when I unbolted my bars there is virtually no slack to work with. So what's the trick? Do I need to pull the fairing and unstrap the lines or what? Hopibg for a quick 10 minute job. Now I'm not so sure. They should be torqued to a specific torque. 23 Nm or 17 ftlb. You can pinch the rubber dampers between the handlebars and the fairing and they will stay. I suggest you have a second (and maybe a third) person to help hold everything in place as you tighten the clamps down. Without the rubber dampers, the fairing flexes and will likely crack. To install the risers is not hard, just cumbersome. It helps a lot (I'm 6'4"). Also, the risers will hit the ignition cover. I just cut the cover to create the clearance needed. It is just plastic. But then, I don't really show off my bike unless it just had its annual bath. RR
M61A1MECH Posted November 2, 2014 #20 Posted November 2, 2014 Should not require splitting the fairing, I thought the same thing when I did mine on my 07, but I did need to cut a few tie wraps and maybe take some wires and cables out of the stays they are in. I had do some repositioning and tugging on cables and wire bundles. When you are able to get everything in place check the throttle for binding when at full stop on both left and right side. It is a bit fiddely, but it can be done, some take longer than others to do.
Jpratt1991 Posted April 26, 2020 #22 Posted April 26, 2020 I had the Barons risers for years until my recent Flanders bars update. The risers will work fine but as stated they will hit the ignition cover at full lock. I had the chrome cover and had to go back to the stock cover but it wasnt a big deal for me. The Barons will raise the height to a more comfortable level but the Flanders bars will give you that same height plus they have a more pull back feel. You can get away with the stock cables with the risers although some manipulation of the throttle cable may be necessary. With the Flanders bars you need a 2" longer cable. Im sure you will like the Barons risers. Is there an option that doesn't have more of a pull back? I already feel as if my elbows are at a 90 degree bend.
WIZ Posted April 27, 2020 #23 Posted April 27, 2020 I installed these https://www.denniskirk.com/khrome-werks/chrome-10-in-bagger-bobber-ape-hangers-1-in-handlebars-300200.p5900142.prd/5900142.sku along with 1 1/2" risers. The bike is much more comfortable now.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now