Oil Leak........

[Huggy]

OK I got the bike running and noticed oil leak. Guess my bike wants to be a Harley. Couldn't see anything due to the collector. So since I had to take the collector anyway I tore off the exhaust system and took a better look. Now the leak is to the right side of the bike under the clutch gears. Ride side being if you where siting on the bike. :backinmyday:Any way I got a mirror, shhhhh stole one from the wife:whistling:. And I had a look and all I can see up where the leak appears top be is a allen bolt. What is that for? I don't want to touch something I shouldn't.

 

[Huggy]

Well ground Hugger we don't have clue so you better just get under there and star tightening everything UP!!!!!!

 

[Huggy]

OK Ground Hugger I'll just do that thanks for the help!!!

 

[frankd]

I've never had any luck tightening up Yamaha covers to cure a leak. What I have discovered though is that over-tightening strips out threads and breaks tabs. I also believe that it distorts the cover making leaks worse. I've actually started using a torque wrench to install cover bolts, and then checking the torque again the next day to compensate for gasket compression. If your clutch (or any other) cover is leaking, replace the gasket, and make sure the case and cover surfaces are perfectly clean. Also make sure that your leak isn't coming from the water pump seal vent. THis is the hole that is on the back of the water pump case. Or did you find the leak is the oil pan?

[Huggy]

Actually from what I could see, I used a mirror, I could see a hex bolt up under there just behind the sump. Now it looks like that's where its coming from since it is only dripping from that area. I might just give it a touch to see if it is loose.

 

[Yammer Dan]

DO NOT just start cranking on bolts!! Shoulder bolts don't like this!! Your valve covers have these and break very easily. Check for proper tourque.

[Huggy]

I was just kidding on the cranking. I have found the leak is the seal on the rod that the clutch slave pushes. How do I fix it? Can I pull the rod out since it is just a push rod? Is it connected to any thing? I do have the seal that came with the rebuild kit. Just haven't found anything in the shop manual about replacing the seal!

 

[Wizard765]

I was just kidding on the cranking. I have found the leak is the seal on the rod that the clutch slave pushes. How do I fix it? Can I pull the rod out since it is just a push rod? Is it connected to any thing? I do have the seal that came with the rebuild kit. Just haven't found anything in the shop manual about replacing the seal!

 

 

OK guys chime in here please.. Is there a small ball bearing in there somewhere? or am I mixing this up with something else?

[dingy]

I was just kidding on the cranking. I have found the leak is the seal on the rod that the clutch slave pushes. How do I fix it? Can I pull the rod out since it is just a push rod? Is it connected to any thing? I do have the seal that came with the rebuild kit. Just haven't found anything in the shop manual about replacing the seal!

 

 

 

You can pull the rod out. It must go back in same orientation as it came out. Ends are slightly different.

 

There are no ball bearings in there. Probably an oilite type bushing.

 

Gary

[Huggy]

OK got her done!! Dug out old one with a long screw driver. Slipped new one on to the rod, slid rod back in gave a LIGHT push around the seal and its in! Easy as pie!

Thanks guys for your input and patients. I don't like to do things unless I'm absolutely sure I know what to do. I have learned this the hard!

 

[dingy]

Little late, but here are a few pictures of what interior of case at clutch push rod looks like.

 

Junk lower case, junk shaft & clutch basket. Don't use these pictures for assembly reference.

 

Gary

[Huggy]

So simply put it just runs through and pushes on the clutch on the other side. Why did they do this instead of doing it the traditional way?

 

[dingy]

So simply put it just runs through and pushes on the clutch on the other side. Why did they do this instead of doing it the traditional way?

 

 

They have been doing this since at least 83, thirty years now.

 

There is only so much real estate in the block area to transition from the hydraulic action to a mechanical movement. Doesn't seem like a bad design concept.

 

Gary

[Huggy]

It does make sense. But why did they go hydraulic? They could have accomplished the same thing using a cable system.

 

[Flyinfool]

Hydraulics are less likely to break while riding and are self adjusting. Cables are known to break or have the "ball" pull of the end and need to be constantly adjusted for wear.

[Huggy]

Hydraulics are less likely to break while riding and are self adjusting. Cables are known to break or have the "ball" pull of the end and need to be constantly adjusted for wear.

 

Good point. But they can also fail. To me it seems a little like 6 of one and 1/2 a dozen of the other. They both have there pros and cons.

 

[IronMike]

Can't be nearly as hard as changing the fuel filter.

[Huggy]

Can't be nearly as hard as changing the fuel filter.

 

Yay that's a real PIA, going to move it!!!!