Leprechaun Posted July 29, 2013 #1 Posted July 29, 2013 Fustrated with some of your Post's.. Im some what poor, Dont have the funds for a dealer to charge me 200 just to find a prob. Im not that nieve. I broke down couple weeks ago 200 miles from home, thank god I have freinds to come get my broke but..lol so an hour later Im back on the road and broke down again same prob , Just shut dow no power. well its home now battery charged , just dont trust it to take a long trip. to bad to, I miss getting away... Wish I could show you guys this bike, doesnt look like it should.. its flat blk with green valve covers, all done with raddle can paint..lol under 50.00$ and I took off the trunk and all the bells and wistles.. when Im more familier with whats going on, Ill show a pic or two. Oh yea I got a car tire on the back and its been there for over 15k miles and still got tread..
RedRider Posted July 29, 2013 #2 Posted July 29, 2013 What bike? Year? Give us some symptoms and we can offer some suggestions. Do you know it is electrical? Might it be fuel related? Need more info. RR
Silverado6x6 Posted July 30, 2013 #4 Posted July 30, 2013 Not a lot of room between regulator and tire. I don't hear much if at all using a car tire on a Venture.
Leprechaun Posted July 30, 2013 Author #5 Posted July 30, 2013 (edited) Sorry Guy's just got to the library, Got two hrs..lol Bike is a 99 Yamaha Venture and as I said I toolk off the trunk and rack with arm grabs, kept pass seat. went from that champaine green to flat and satin black with a nice green accent on the valve covers. I made the mistake of cutting some wires witch left the lighting on when the radio was turned off, but added a kill switch to the radio so thats done. Yes a volks wagon 165, 15 on the back and as I said got 15 plus k on it and still has about 10k left maybe less maybe more. it rates for 44 lbs I like to lean in to the exit turns so I put 35 to 37 and check it evry time I leave the house. tell me how to show you a pick and would be glad to do so. Get a lot of complements, not on the paint so much but on the back tire and the street glide look. Well on to my elect prob is that some how when I bought the new battery on the road, it did not charge it died after an hour of riding. As REDRIVER asked Electric or Fuel related? I lost lights signal and both red light from left to right at the pannel showed up. Yesturday some one put a DC check on it and read 1161 to 1247 and jumped back and forth while idle. Thinking its the rectifier, Aftermarket 35$ dealer 110.00$ mmmm.. Im riding Black Betty but wont go far, My friends were deployed last week so I have know one to call on that can tow her back. Chief Englin USS Truman will return in 9months we hope. Edited July 30, 2013 by Leprechaun
Flyinfool Posted July 30, 2013 #6 Posted July 30, 2013 (edited) There is a lot of basic troubleshooting you can do with no need for a dealer. 11.61 to 12.47 even at idle is not good, but by its self is not enough to diagnose the problem. Start by charging the battery fully. Charge at a 2 amp rate. It will take at least overnight. Take out the battery and take it to a store that sells batteries to have it load tested. There are a lot of stores that will do this for free. If the battery is good, put it back in the bike and get a digital volt meter. If you do not have one, you can pick one up at Harbor Freight for under $10. With the meter set on the 20VDC scale check the voltage across the battery with the engine running over 2000 RPM, and let us know what it is. We can take you to the next steps from there. It is still way to soon to be gussing that it is the Regulator, unless you are the type that prefers to throw money at the problem till you hit it....... We can talk you thru almost anything that you need to do with out involving a stealer. Edited July 30, 2013 by Flyinfool
GeorgeS Posted July 30, 2013 #7 Posted July 30, 2013 There is a lot of basic troubleshooting you can do with no need for a dealer. 11.61 to 12.47 even at idle is not good, but by its self is not enough to diagnose the problem. Start by charging the battery fully. Charge at a 2 amp rate. It will take at least overnight. Take out the battery and take it to a store that sells batteries to have it load tested. There are a lot of stores that will do this for free. If the battery is good, put it back in the bike and get a digital volt meter. If you do not have one, you can pick one up at Harbor Freight for under $10. With the meter set on the 20VDC scale check the voltage across the battery with the engine running over 2000 RPM, and let us know what it is. We can take you to the next steps from there. It is still way to soon to be gussing that it is the Regulator, unless you are the type that prefers to throw money at the problem till you hit it....... We can talk you thru almost anything that you need to do with out involving a stealer. After you do " All of the Above " ---!!!!!!!! Down , hidden, under the battery, ( remove both side covers ) you will find a " Large White Electrical Plug " . It has 3 , large #10 wires going thru it, This 3 wire cable runs " From " the Stator to the Rectifyer/Regulator unit. ( located under the batter, Hard to see ) Find the White Plug !!!!! OPEN the Plug !!! Inspect the Male and Female Pins for being BURNT, or DAMAGED !!!! This is a VERY COMMON Problem on all the 1st Generation, and 2nd Generation Ventures !!!! IF the plug is damaged, the Standard, FIX, or ( as we call it, A , Modification ) is to Cut out the Plug, and SPLICE, the wires together, Use a Western Union Type Splice, and then SOLDER, the Splice with "" ROSIN CORE SOLDER " . Apply a Double layer of Shrink Tubeing, to insulate the new splice's. ( avialable most auto parts stores ) IF--- you find that the plug is OK, the re install, and take AC Voltage Readings. on each one of the Three Wires going thru the white plug. Read, each wire to Ground. Engine running about 2000 RPM, All three wires should have about the SAME AC voltage reading at 2000 RPM. IF------- One wire is Considerable lower then the other two, the the STATOR, is most likley failing. The Stator puts out Three Phase AC. The voltage on each wire should be within a volt or two of each other. --- Check, your Battery Connections !!! Are they tight ????? --- Check the Neg Battery Cable where it connects to the crank case , forward right corner of the engine !! --- Check your Main Fuse's, Left side cover, --- Open up the RED , Run- Stop Switch on right handle bar, Clean the contacts. ---- A common problem on these bikes, is the ON / OFF Switch contacts, in the Ignition switch !!! Lots of folks have had to REPLACE the Switch. See the Maintenance Section of this web site, for detailed information on repairing or replaceing the Ignition switch. !!!
Leprechaun Posted August 2, 2013 Author #8 Posted August 2, 2013 Haven't found any wire problems yet. I got digital meter but confused how to use it. Having the rectifier tested, I'll know by tomorrow. PS wish you guys had a trade post, have some items like intercommunication for riding...
Leprechaun Posted August 4, 2013 Author #9 Posted August 4, 2013 R/R is good. Found corrosion on 30 amp fuses. Going to replace. Found that battery tested 13.5 but when running 69% O'Reilly s tested Sent from my LG-P509 using Tapatalk 2
GeorgeS Posted August 23, 2013 #10 Posted August 23, 2013 Any more trouble ?? Did you get it fixed ??
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