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Posted (edited)

I keep blowing fuses!

 

Note : running lights alone do not blow fuse.....Driving lights alone do.

 

it's the first 10 amp fuse....the ACC fuse.

 

I'm sure it's because of my driving lights....but I don't understand why!

 

The driving lights are connect as follows.

 

 

Relay #87 Direct from+ post of battery, 15 a fused line...which doesn't blow

 

Relay # 30 to driving lights (which are grounded to frame)

Relay # 85 goes to ground on terminal block

Relay # 86 goes to one end of switch

Ground to battery post goes to other end of switch (this ground is shared with a 2nd switch using the ACC circuit..that runs the rear running lights ..but it doesn't blow fuses itself.

Keyed power (off ACC terminal block) goes to center of 3 terminal switch.

 

When the fuse goes, the only other thing I see that doesn't work is the resistor circuit bypass so it starts showing the CMU alarm for the battery sensor.

 

Any suggestions?

This is driving me nuts!:bang head:

Edited by Trader
Posted

I am Assuming that you have a lighted switch that you are wiring in.

Try switching the two outside connections (pins 1 and 3) to the switch. It makes a difference which way a lighted switch is hooked up.

Posted (edited)

given the connections as in my OP.....If....when the switch is on, I have NO power going to #30 post is dead...does that mean the relay is shot?

 

EDIT: I did try reversing outside connections

Edited by Trader
more info
Posted

Another thing to check, some relays have a suppressor diode built in. if 85 and 86 are reversed it will be like a direct short and blow the fuse. After a few fuses blow it will no longer have a suppressor diode.:whistling:

 

Use your ohm meter to check the resistance across 85 and 86, then reverse the leads and check it again. If both readings are the same then there is no suppressor diode. Usually if there is a diode in the relay, it be marked on the case which terminal is positive.

 

Withe black lead connected to battery negative, check the voltage at all 4 relay terminals.

Posted

Unplug pin 30 and 87 and connect them together and see if your driving lights light or does the 15 amp fuse blow. If they light up ok then you miswired something with your switch...

Posted
Another thing to check, some relays have a suppressor diode built in. if 85 and 86 are reversed it will be like a direct short and blow the fuse. After a few fuses blow it will no longer have a suppressor diode.:whistling:

 

Use your ohm meter to check the resistance across 85 and 86, then reverse the leads and check it again. If both readings are the same then there is no suppressor diode. Usually if there is a diode in the relay, it be marked on the case which terminal is positive.

 

no"+" marking on the relay... shows "0" both ways

 

Withe black lead connected to battery negative, check the voltage at all 4 relay terminals.

 

not sure I understand this.

Did you want me to touch the black lead of the tester on the RELAY battery negative (post 85) or do you mean to Connect a wire to from # 85(GND) to the BATTERY ground post and then check the other 3? What setting would I use for either scenario?

Posted

#30 should be the fused line from the battery, #87 is the power line going to whatever lights you're running. In this case the driving lights. For #85 I prefer that post to be the power side from a "key on" switch with #86 going to a on/off switch controlling the relay by doing the final grounding.

Larry

Posted
#30 should be the fused line from the battery, #87 is the power line going to whatever lights you're running. In this case the driving lights. For #85 I prefer that post to be the power side from a "key on" switch with #86 going to a on/off switch controlling the relay by doing the final grounding.

Larry

 

OK...now I'm really confused....see page 10 of the pdf attached to this posting from Dingy.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68952

Posted
no"+" marking on the relay... shows "0" both ways

 

 

 

not sure I understand this.

Did you want me to touch the black lead of the tester on the RELAY battery negative (post 85) or do you mean to Connect a wire to from # 85(GND) to the BATTERY ground post and then check the other 3? What setting would I use for either scenario?

 

The resistance should not be 0, set your meter to read ohms, set it on the lowest scale, and recheck 85 to 86 with the wires removed from the relay terminals. If it still reads 0 both ways, then you have a bad relay. resistance should be between 75 and 200 ohms

 

If resistance is good.

Set meter to read volts on a scale that can read 12V, most likely will be 20V scale.

Connect the black lead of the tester to the negative terminal of the bikes battery.

Then using the red lead of the tester, check the voltage on all 4 terminals of the relay with the switch in the on position.

Posted

OK Jeff, I am assuming the way I had it wired is just an alternative method and is fine.

 

The tests you want me to run ...

 

probe on neg. terminal and check all 4 pins on relay

AND the test between 85 and 87

 

....is this with the relay disconnected from everything or wired up as per post #1?

 

If connected, switched power on or off?

Posted

First do the ohms test with the relay disconnected.

 

If it passes that test, then do the voltage test with everything connected and the switch on and the ignition on. Bike does not have to be running

Posted

OK.....no room in the garage.....and the bike is outside.

I"ll check it in the morning.

 

what should I expect if it is good vs bad?

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