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Posted (edited)

Recently changed my plugs to non-resister, NGK DP8EA-9, because I read somewhere about them being less prone to fouling. My bike runs great but I also did a lot of other maintenance simultaneously. The non-resister plugs do not affect my radio.

 

I read in a spark plug thread where someone recommended using iridium plugs NGK plug, DPR8EIX-9, but it is a resister. It stated that they weren't available in non-resister and I searched and couldn't find them.

 

So, my question is about the pros and cons of using non-resister plugs. Should I stay with the non-resister or go to a resister iridium plug at my next change? Are the benefits of iridium worth the extra cost? If you've used them, what do you think? Thanks.

Edited by Donvito
Posted

If the plug caps have no resistors in them you use resistive plugs. Now I have been told that using no resistive plugs with non resistive plug caps is not good for your coils!:no-no-no: Now don't take this as being correct this is what I've been told. Now my Yamaha shop manual says to use resistive plugs. :backinmyday: So I do. Now if you want a plug that will give you less carbon build up go with the E3 plugs. The design gives more area for a spark to jump to. There a lot of different opinion's on these plugs BUT the are based on automotive results. Newer vehicles don't like them much. BUT I use them in my 83 Yamaha XJ750K and love them. The bike starts with just a touch of the starter button and with little to no choke. As soon as I get my VR up and running I'll be putting a set in it.:)

 

:mytruck1:

Posted
Recently changed my plugs to non-resister, NGK DP8EA-9, because I read somewhere about them being less prone to fouling. My bike runs great but I also did a lot of other maintenance simultaneously. The non-resister plugs do not affect my radio.

 

I read in a spark plug thread where someone recommended using iridium plugs NGK plug, DPR8EIX-9, but it is a resister. It stated that they weren't available in non-resister and I searched and couldn't find them.

 

So, my question is about the pros and cons of using non-resister plugs. Should I stay with the non-resister or go to a resister iridium plug at my next change? Are the benefits of iridium worth the extra cost? If you've used them, what do you think? Thanks.

 

Con: The non resistor plug may cause interference to your electronics.

From NGK="In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion."

http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/tech-info-spark-plug-faq.cfm

 

Pro: It will burn hotter ( you will see no more than a 1 or 2% increase in performance ). When racing, when everyone is squeezing out a percentage of a percentage it makes a small difference. On a street bike I don't see the benefit.

Posted
If the plug caps have no resistors in them you use resistive plugs. Now I have been told that using no resistive plugs with non resistive plug caps is not good for your coils!:no-no-no: Now don't take this as being correct this is what I've been told. Now my Yamaha shop manual says to use resistive plugs. :backinmyday: So I do. Now if you want a plug that will give you less carbon build up go with the E3 plugs. The design gives more area for a spark to jump to. There a lot of different opinion's on these plugs BUT the are based on automotive results. Newer vehicles don't like them much. BUT I use them in my 83 Yamaha XJ750K and love them. The bike starts with just a touch of the starter button and with little to no choke. As soon as I get my VR up and running I'll be putting a set in it.:)

 

:mytruck1:

 

Thanks. I have ordered a set of E3 plugs and I'm looking forward to installing them. Thanks for the advice.

Posted

I have the E 3 in the Roadstar as they are prone to carbon build up on the rear cyl. And SVS (Sticky Valve Syndrome) They seemed to help out on that and been reliable, so I was thinking about putting some on my 08 Venture. Its E3.36 as listed on their web site. Im about to pull the trigger on some myself when I do some wiring and have the tank off anyways.

 

I think a Ran Splitfire once and there was hardly a difference when I went to the e3.

I just stuck with e 3 because I never had a problem and never heard anything bad about them.

 

Anyone currently running them chime in?

Posted (edited)

I just installed them on Saturday so don't have much experience but the bike runs great. I don't usually run up to 6 or 7000 rpms but I wanted to see how they did and it ran fine even with the original ignition wires. I'm more of a cruiser and don't run that high but damn it's fast up in that range. The only negative I've noticed is a slight hesitation if I rev it in neutral but it doesn't happen while riding and I'm not prone to sitting in neutral and revving it. Don't know the longevity but I'd be interested in hearing from members using iridium plugs.

 

Also, they take a 5/8" socket and don't make the mistake I did and install all 4 plugs before realizing I had to remove the little cap on the tip of the plug. Had to pull them out and remove the caps.

Edited by Donvito
Posted
What is the plug number for the E3's. I've seen those for yard equipment so they're probably not resistor plugs, are they?

 

Yes they ARE resistor plug!:backinmyday:

 

:mytruck1:

Posted
Here's a thread I found that's pretty critical of E3 plugs: http://www.kfx450hq.com/forums/general-discussion/7623-e3-spark-plug-warning.htmlc

 

My self and others have been using these plugs in Yamaha XJ and Secas for a few years. And no adverse effects!:backinmyday: One thing you must realize this is not an industry warning. This is a statement from an individual on a forum who holed a cylinder! More then likely he ran his engine in a too lean condition to get more speed. And you will burn a hole through your pistons with ANY plug if you run too lean. When I was racing sleds we used to lean our fuel/air mixtures out to get max speed.:whistling: The only draw back was you would burn a hole through your STOCK pistons doing this.:depressed: We used pistons with a special hardened surface to avoid this problem.:backinmyday: Check with E3 email about your concerns then go from there. My suggestion is FIRST get your bike running right WITH stock Plugs then switch out to the E3's. If E3's where burning holes like the guy says there would have been an industry wide warning and E3 would be facing a massive law suit by now. :backinmyday:

 

:mytruck1:

Posted

I guess what the one guy talked about having extra material from the larger ground conductor score the cylinder wall worried me. I once liked "Split-Fire" plugs and ran them in a Toyota I owned. This may not have been the plugs fault either because it started with a bad head gasket but then it turned out that part of the insulator cracked off and scored the cylinder. Now a head gasket replacement was much more costly. I don't use "Split-Fire" anymore though, probably won't use E3 in anything more involved than a lawnmower either.

Posted

Well I just put em in last night e 3 36 $25 for four. The stock plugs looked new, so thats good news. Will have to find a new socket for the tool kit as it is a 5/8 as mentioned, different than stock.

 

Just to see I always try the stock tool ket to do something, HA it was about worthless, I almost emptied the drawers of my tool box just changing the plugs. That worries me. LOL Might as well toss that kit.

Posted

After about 200 miles on the E3 plugs, the bike started running poorly.Lagging on acceleration and running on 3 cylinders at times. Switched to NGK Iridium plugs and running good again. The bike also ran hotter with the E3's although I don't understand that. Returning the E3's for a refund.

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