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Posted

Finished construction of my HF trailer last night with the help of my buddy who I fondly refer to as "McGyver". Got the 12" tire model, frame all square, 24" added to tongue, joints welded tight and touched up with spray paint, 1 spring leaf removed, new bearing grease, washer added to hitch, wired with new HF LED lights. Ready to roll except for...............one tire wouldn't hold air. All trailer lights checked out OK except for...............rear side markers wouldn't light. Checked the tire today, wasn't the bead, had two pinholes in the sidewall :( Checked the light assembly to see if there was a loose wire, not only was there no wire, there was no bulb either. In fact, there was nothing there at all, just a hollow cavity where a bulb should have been. :confused07::puzzled:

 

Called HF (closest is 35 miles away) and they said sure bring it in, we'll exchange the tire. Told 'em about the sidemarker and they said they would check that as well. Loaded up the defective tire on my bike and away we go :Venture:

 

Tire exchange went fine, but in checking a different model #60597 LED light set (which looks - strangely - exactly the same as the one I bought #60521) there is no side marker light on that model either. Even though printed right on the package is that they are DOT & FMVSS 108 certified - which requires side marker on the front and rear of the trailer. Guy I talked to had all of one month at the store so he was no help, so I guess I'll have to call corporate on Monday to find out what's going on there.

 

Is there a way to add a bulb to each of the rear side markers?? I'm not sure if I could add the side marker bulb from the OEM trailer set or not. Don't know if that would cause a problem with the LED set or not. Do they make single LED's that I could wire in?? Advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Not quite finished, car top carrier to be added as well.

Posted

They should be able to swap out the needed lights from their LED replacement set they sell.

 

 

But if it gets ugly you can find LED lights and housings at Wally World that should work well.

 

I installed four of their lights on my '84 where the OEM reflectors were. Holding up well over several years now and better side visibilitly than the flat ones.

IMG_0368.jpg

Posted
They should be able to swap out the needed lights from their LED replacement set they sell.

 

 

But if it gets ugly you can find LED lights and housings at Wally World that should work well.

 

I installed four of their lights on my '84 where the OEM reflectors were. Holding up well over several years now and better side visibilitly than the flat ones.

 

Ure trailer looks just like a first gen

Posted
Finished construction of my HF trailer last night with the help of my buddy who I fondly refer to as "McGyver". Got the 12" tire model, frame all square, 24" added to tongue, joints welded tight and touched up with spray paint, 1 spring leaf removed, new bearing grease, washer added to hitch, wired with new HF LED lights. Ready to roll except for...............one tire wouldn't hold air. All trailer lights checked out OK except for...............rear side markers wouldn't light. Checked the tire today, wasn't the bead, had two pinholes in the sidewall :( Checked the light assembly to see if there was a loose wire, not only was there no wire, there was no bulb either. In fact, there was nothing there at all, just a hollow cavity where a bulb should have been. :confused07::puzzled:

 

Called HF (closest is 35 miles away) and they said sure bring it in, we'll exchange the tire. Told 'em about the sidemarker and they said they would check that as well. Loaded up the defective tire on my bike and away we go :Venture:

 

Tire exchange went fine, but in checking a different model #60597 LED light set (which looks - strangely - exactly the same as the one I bought #60521) there is no side marker light on that model either. Even though printed right on the package is that they are DOT & FMVSS 108 certified - which requires side marker on the front and rear of the trailer. Guy I talked to had all of one month at the store so he was no help, so I guess I'll have to call corporate on Monday to find out what's going on there.

 

Is there a way to add a bulb to each of the rear side markers?? I'm not sure if I could add the side marker bulb from the OEM trailer set or not. Don't know if that would cause a problem with the LED set or not. Do they make single LED's that I could wire in?? Advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Not quite finished, car top carrier to be added as well.

 

did you add a cooler rack??

Posted
Posted

The lights that you bought everything says they should be Ambur side marker LIGHTS.

The product description page calls them lights, the instruction manual says to hook up the wire for the lights, the only place that does not say they are lights is the specification part of the manual. That manual is used for 4 different light sets, under yours it only list the tail lights as being lights, the other models list a 5W side marker light.

 

BUT these lights are intended to use a frame ground. Do not use the frame ground for lights, It will just cause problems years down the road, run a ground wire to each light on the trailer. I still do connect a wire to the frame ground just to prevent any chance of static build up. All of my lighting current is through wires.

Posted

Best cooler rack I have seen was just 2 pieces of 3" angle , the back was attached to frame, front had like large wing nuts on the bottom of the u bolts. He had eyes on them but could slide it back and forth , lock it down and strap to it. Completely simple and adjustable.

Posted

Trailer is officially complete, but it has unwanted hops. I removed the smallest of the three leaf springs, was that the right one?? Should I remove another?? I tried it with 30 lbs air pressure and then down to 22 Lbs, but it still jumps around when I hit medium cracks in the road. It was empty, but as you can see by the pics, it has 5/4 deck boards for the floor, which probably adds 50 lbs weight. Any suggestions??

 

 

http://i317.photobucket.com/albums/mm381/frodotwo/P1020330.jpg

http://i317.photobucket.com/albums/mm381/frodotwo/P1020331.jpg

http://i317.photobucket.com/albums/mm381/frodotwo/P1020328.jpg

Posted

I say you have a little (read that extreme) overkill on the decking.

 

You will or at least I have never needed that much support. Just added weight at this point with little or no pay back.

Sucks up potential hauling capacity too.

 

Ya! I know go lay down by my bowl.

 

Just my 2 cents worth and it may not be worth that much. :rotf::rotf::rotf:

Posted
I say you have a little (read that extreme) overkill on the decking.

 

You will or at least I have never needed that much support. Just added weight at this point with little or no pay back.

Sucks up potential hauling capacity too.

 

Ya! I know go lay down by my bowl.

 

Just my 2 cents worth and it may not be worth that much. :rotf::rotf::rotf:

 

I had deck boards laying around so I used those rather than spend $30 on a sheet of treated plywood. I ride solo 99% of the time so I'm lighter than many that tow and ride 2-up. Besides, I needed a lawn trailer anyway :rolleyes:

Posted (edited)

Assuming... The springs are above the axel...

would say it's not heavy enough empty...

 

I haul a 900 lb jet ski on the foldable HF trailer rated for 1200 lb and it did the same thing when empty.

 

at 1000 lb it smoothed right out.

 

It also never bounces with a 400 lb 4 wheeler...

 

 

Some people put the axel between the spring and frame. This will take almost all shock absorbtion away and only lower trailer a few inches... and in my opinion, make it dangerous on a motorcycle.

 

Agree with what Jeff said about hard wiring a ground. Frame grounds are nothing but headache...

Edited by CaptainJoe
Posted

I run the smaller Tag A Long trailer. It's rated at 600 lbs I think. I left the overload spring on it. It's only a 2 spring set up.

 

Your trailer is rated heavier so it's going to take some load to smooth it out.

 

Mine running empty is a dancing fool. Once I get it loaded up to 200-250 lbs it smoothes out fine with the tires at 25 lbs.

Posted

I only run 15lbs in my tires, but they are 8". I think you have plenty of air. Mine bounces empty as well. Hey, they are light for a reason. Put a load in it and try it again.

Posted

By just removing the bottom of the 3 springs you now have the equal of the stock trailer with the 8" wheels. Take out the other spring so that there is just one on each side.

 

I looked at flipping the axle to the top of the spring to lower the trailer, but this would have required making new fender mounts to keep the tires from rubbing on the fenders when loaded or hitting a bump in the road. With the 12" tires it might be worth it to get the trailer more level.

 

In my 8" tire I have found 20 PSI to be the best. Fully loaded and at the end of a tank of gas at interstate speeds the tires and bearings were still cool to the touch. I could probably go a little lower yet on air pressure. Mine bounced like crazy with 2 leafs, the single leaf and lower tire pressure got rid of the bounce even when empty.

 

I am still looking at adding the 7" electric brakes from R&P Carriage, and of course, more lights.

 

But then, now I might have a line on a Bunkhouse in which case I will be selling this trailer.

Posted

[quote

But then, now I might have a line on a Bunkhouse in which case I will be selling this trailer.

 

Just so ya know,that bunkhouse won't be as big as your circus tent.:stickpoke:

 

Just say'n..:D

 

Thanks again for the windshield..

It will be on the bike today..:happy34:

This should shut up that biker gang I ride with.:rasberry:

Posted

My trailer bounces real easy unloaded. But when I get her loaded and the cooler full she doesn't bounce at all. I can tell you at 105 mph she will get a little lift and it will make your butt cheeks pucker. Lesson learned when passing another vehicle. Great trailer you have, so enjoy.....

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