Black wing Posted July 18, 2013 #1 Posted July 18, 2013 so im digging into my valves and they are TIGHT. and its not heat the bikes been stripped for 24 hours now. i know by the state i bought the bike in it probably hasn't had an adjustment in 100,000 km now, but why would they be so tight that they seem to be riding the cam all the way around? is that normal do i just drop a few sizes measure up then adjust? also the timing marks tell me the tdc for cyl 1 and 2 but only gives me angles for the other 2 but there are no timing marks or points of reference on the flywheel to tell me where to go
Flyinfool Posted July 18, 2013 #2 Posted July 18, 2013 The valves on this engine get tighter with wear. If they are actually tight then all you can do is to try a shim that is smaller by what the clearance should be and remeasure, by going smaller by the amount of clearance you need you might get lucky and hit it on the first try, not likely but at least possible. I cant help you with the timing marks.
MiCarl Posted July 18, 2013 #3 Posted July 18, 2013 The angles are a pita and hard to keep track of. If you pay attention on 1 and 2 you can see how the cams are oriented when checking. Just make sure 3 and 4 have a similar orientation.
Peder_y2k Posted July 18, 2013 #4 Posted July 18, 2013 RULE #1 DO NOT ROTATE THE CAMSHAFT WITHOUT SHIMS IN BUCKET. Don't ask me how I know........... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
camos Posted July 19, 2013 #6 Posted July 19, 2013 I was having difficulty following the TDC rotation as stated in the manual and in the Tech article written by V7Goose so I asked him about it. This was his reply: I wish I knew more about the 1st gen so I could answer you better. I have no idea if that engine is different or if that manual is wrong. The process I used is straight from the 2nd gen manual. If your manual is correct for your engine, you should be able to watch the intake valve close as you approach the point for the next cylinder. If that process is not working, then just forget the order from the manual and just turn the crank until the cylinder you want to do has both cam lobes generally pointed up so the valves are closed. You might have to turn the engine around a few extra times to get them all done, but it will work fine. The latter method worked better for me. Hopefully this will help with your issue.
Black wing Posted July 19, 2013 Author #7 Posted July 19, 2013 ok so valve adjustment done a total of 6 valves were done all 4 on cyl 1 one on cyl 2 and one on cyl 3, and just for anyone new to the task doing cylinders 3 and four to tdc i used a spade bit with a spade atleast 1/2 inch wide at the spade and used the shank to give me tdc through the spark plug hole. works pretty quick and the spade end will stop it from dropping into the cylinder if oily fingers have a slip
Flyinfool Posted July 19, 2013 #8 Posted July 19, 2013 Glad you got it done. That is on my list of things to do. Maybe this fall.
Black wing Posted July 19, 2013 Author #9 Posted July 19, 2013 gotta do it eventually just tossed it in with my massive list of things im doing today. compleate new exaust, new tires, new rad and starter, valve adjustment, replaced final drive and read end oil. and all has to be done in 48 hours starting 30 hours ago haha. on hour 19 of solid working on the bike to have it ready for my road trip this afternoon.
Flyinfool Posted July 19, 2013 #10 Posted July 19, 2013 Make sure you get some sleep before you head out.
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