Excessive

[Black wing]

so this spring i put on new brake pads all the way around my bike now the front caliper (hand brake side ) has already worn trough the set and the brake disk is even bluing from the heat. but the brake dosent seem stick as soon as i let go it releases and i can spin the tire freely with minimal to no heat. is this just something that comes from almost exclusively stopping with the front brake or is there another issue here?

[dingy]

so this spring i put on new brake pads all the way around my bike now the front caliper (hand brake side ) has already worn trough the set and the brake disk is even bluing from the heat. but the brake dosent seem stick as soon as i let go it releases and i can spin the tire freely with minimal to no heat. is this just something that comes from almost exclusively stopping with the front brake or is there another issue here?

 

Some people use the front brake primarily to stop front bike. If you are one of that camp, you are stopping a 750 lbs bike plus your weight and equipment with one rotor. It's gonna wear down.

You can swap the left & right pads on the bike. Actually fronts & rear are the same on stock bikes.

Gary

[Florida G]

Well I hope you don't mind if I add some calliper knowledge... This is automotive but still applicable. The bike calipers that I have looked at don't really have a long travel on slides like cars do and usually double sided piston. Brembo callipers a quite popular these days. Any way I have been to automotive brake school and heres what I suggest. Even if you have just replaced the pads try this. (Things to buy. Brake cleen, anti seez lubricant or sil glide) also hope that you have a wire wheel on bench grinder. Remove pads hose off all foreign material and scrape clean (all) surfaces that the pad backer will contact in the caliper with a small pocket screw driver or whatever you have that will do the job . Flush with brake cleen again to make sure there are no brake dust deposits anywhere. Take a pad insert it and see if it slides in the channel freely if so great if there are any hang up points not due to brake dust you can lightly file the pad backer edges to relive hang up. Also some calliper have a single pad guide pin that has to be cleaned as well. Take it to a wire wheel. You dont want to sand or grind it just clean it as well as your bolts while your at it. Now you are ready for reassembly. Some people don't think that brakes have lubrication points.(wrong) obviously ya dont get anything on the friction material. Only lubricate the surfaces where the pad rides lightly with anti seez or silglide as this will help the travel of the pad and the retraction you may also want to add some disc brake quite to the back of the pad so it sticks to the piston. I have also heard that over filling the master will not allow the piston retract correctly. If your brakes havent been bled in a while and the fluid looks kinda toasty bleed and replenish your fluid. Also on a seperate note see if your pads are wearing flat not on a angle thats another issue. Hope this helps

[Florida G]

Oh one more thing. Some times when brake hoses get old the layer start to separate creating a flap type valve inside the hose letting fluid travel freely in one direction but restricted in the other...

[Hazenson]

yep good points Florida-- just did my brakes too- front and back, cleaned everything up real nice-- but the biggest point you made is very important-- dont fill those master cylinders all the way up-- never past the line-- they need to have a lil room for the fluid to move and breath. If their too full the brake pad wont be able to move away from the disk