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Posted

This does not make sense to me. I removed crank case #2 cover to rebuild the clutch slave. When I removed the old gasket I found a notch at the top of the hole where the bottom cap screw goes through!! :stickpoke:I don't know how much oil this part of the case holds but to me it looks like it would just leak out! There is no seal to prevent a leak here :doh:. See picture. Explains why the side stand safety switch is covered in oil.:bang head:

 

 

:mytruck1:

Posted

It is hard to tell from your pic but the screw at the bottom of the middle gear cover at the six o'clock position has a copper crush washer under the head of the screw to act as a seal for that hole.

I think the case has that notch and the screw has that washer so as to act as a drain plug for the middle gear cover, if you were ever wanting to drain the area of motor oil.

Double check that the 6 o'clock cap screw does indeed have that copper washer. It is sometimes misplaced and the leak you have is the result.

Posted

If that is the bottom hole of the rear cover on the left side of the bike, that is an oil drain for the transmission. If you look close the tapped hole in the block goes all of the way thru to the inside on just that one hole.

There should have been a copper crush washer on that screw to seal it from leaking. I use a new crush washer every time I take that screw out.

Posted

Thanks I'll have a look. I put new oil in the bike before I took the cover off. Now is there more then one place to put oil in? Because when I removed the cover very little oil came out and its on the center stand.

Posted
Now is there more then one place to put oil in? Because when I removed the cover very little oil came out and its on the center stand.

 

No, there is just one place for the oil. The engine oil and transmission oil are one and the same. With the bike on the centerstand, very little oil will be drained through that six o'clock screw. Put it on the sidestand, however and more oil will be drained.

Posted

OK thanks. I have found the crush washer! Don't know how I missed it when I looked at the parts list! :stickpoke: I'll have to go visit the local Yamaha dealer. HATE doing business with this guy. He doesn't carry 1/4" fuel line and told me to use 3/8" fuel line instead on my 83 XJ750K. Said it wouldn't make a difference. :buttkick: The only reason I was going to buy it from him is the fuel lines on the XJ have thinner walls so they can bend in the tight space between the carb and air box without kinking.

 

:mytruck1:

Posted

In a pinch you can reuse a copper crush washer if you first flat lap each side with a medium fine sandpaper such as 320 grit or emory cloth. To flat lap you place the sandpaper on a flat surface and then rub the washer in a figure 8 pattern by holding it flat on the paper with your finger. Do both sides of the washer.

 

It is better to replace, but if your lovely dealer does not have one this method will work...

Posted

You can heat that crush washer up with a propane torch until it's red hot and let it cool off. Then dress it with some fine grit paper or a fine file. It will expand enough to use again and seal like a new one.

 

If your in a bind for a new one this trick works quite well. Done it a lot of times on the union bolts washers on the brakes for road side fix it fast jobs.

Posted

Is the crush washer on the outside of the cov:whistling:er or on the inside of it if its on the outside that may explain one of my oil leaks but not all I need valve cover gaskets

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