edtheguy Posted July 9, 2013 #1 Posted July 9, 2013 Went for a 400 mile ride last Saturday, got stuck in some traffic and it was a ninety degree day. Noticed the bike stated running rough as the temp increased, never got to red line. but close. Changed the coolant next day. Not sure if that's the fix but figured I'd try that first. Noticed coolant reservoir was empty, reloaded that too, Would that have had any bearing on my overheat situation?
Flyinfool Posted July 9, 2013 #2 Posted July 9, 2013 If the reservoir was empty then there may have been some air in the system reducing the cooling capacity of the system. It is also possible to have an air bubble by the sensor for the thermostat causing a lower reading. When in heavy stop and go traffic it is common to get hot enough for the fan to come on, the fan usually comes on while you are stopped or going very slow causing no airflow through the radiator. The fan pulls a lot of power as does the brakes and at idle the voltage may drop causing a weaker spark and poor running.
KIC Posted July 9, 2013 #3 Posted July 9, 2013 I just did my 89 this past weekend. I filled the overflow 1/2 way and let it sit over night after idling for a while. The overflow was empty the next morning. My first ride it stayed cool until I returned home then puked all over the floor while idling and the overflow bottle was full to the top, where it had been 1/2 way when I left. After cooling down I checked the radiator and the bottle and everything was perfect. It now seems to run fine and no leaks or overflow. Peder Y2K told me that these beasts will develop an air pocket and cause the issues. Once the air pocket burps, you should be fine. Here's the link to my recent adventure: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79957
MiCarl Posted July 9, 2013 #4 Posted July 9, 2013 Mine will approach red line under those conditions too. Fan kicks on right below red line keeping it from going higher. I wouldn't be surprised if there is enough heat under those conditions to cause fuel in the carbs to boil. That would make it run rough too.
edtheguy Posted July 10, 2013 Author #5 Posted July 10, 2013 I only remember one time when the fan came on. You're saying it only comes on as it approaches overheat condition? I don't think it came on this time. Is there any way to check that it's connected and functional?
dingy Posted July 10, 2013 #6 Posted July 10, 2013 See attached picture. Red arrow points to fan switch. Pull connector from sensor and jumper 2 wires in connector together. With key on, fan should spin up. Gary
edtheguy Posted July 10, 2013 Author #7 Posted July 10, 2013 Thanks guys, you are a wealth of information!!
edtheguy Posted July 11, 2013 Author #8 Posted July 11, 2013 Can someone explain the coolant drain cock and it's purpose? Also my fan came on today but after I shut it off and turned the key to on without starting? Don't thin k it was on before that though. Thanks
KIC Posted July 11, 2013 #9 Posted July 11, 2013 Ah... one of the most confusing pieces of the machine. The correct setting for running is the words upside down with the end of the words at the 2 oclock and the 8oclock position. The words 180 degrees turned will be still be in the same position but upside right and readable. That position is for draining and getting the air out after changing the fluid. You have to loosen the little screw on the side to turn it.
edtheguy Posted July 16, 2013 Author #10 Posted July 16, 2013 Here's something weird, I noticed as the bike got hot, not even close to red zone but about 2/3rds of the way it started to run bad, missing, sluggish. Any idea what that might be about? Seems to run fine cold and until it gets to this 2/3rds area. Thanks
dingy Posted July 16, 2013 #11 Posted July 16, 2013 Here's something weird, I noticed as the bike got hot, not even close to red zone but about 2/3rds of the way it started to run bad, missing, sluggish. Any idea what that might be about? Seems to run fine cold and until it gets to this 2/3rds area. Thanks Load of fan could be taxing electrical system. For a short test, pull connector from fan switch. Take bike for short ride and see if rising temp still effects bike. You won't kill motor if it gets a little warm. The radiator system is working, just don't ride 100 miles without a fan. When you are satisfied it is or isn't working different, pull over somewhere & plug fan back in. Gary
edtheguy Posted July 20, 2013 Author #12 Posted July 20, 2013 (edited) So I jumpered the fan switch as suggested and the fan works fine. Could it be that the sending unit for the temp that triggers the fan is inoperative? How does that thing determine when the fan should be on? Edited July 20, 2013 by edtheguy
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