KIC Posted July 8, 2013 #1 Posted July 8, 2013 I want to disconnect the electrical wires to my front anti-dives. I have installed progressives and want to get rid of the electrical sucking those lil monsters do. Where is the disconnect located at ? What do I need to disassemble to get to the disconnects ?
bongobobny Posted July 8, 2013 #2 Posted July 8, 2013 OK first a question, why do you think they "suck" electricity? The only time they draw anything is when you apply the brakes, and they don't draw much amperage at all, they are just a solenoid. That being said, just follow the wires up to the wiring harness and pull the plugs. If you notice, the wires are very thin to begin with which should tell you they do not draw very much amperage. If you want to do it the fast way just cut the wires and insulate the cut end...
mralex714 Posted July 8, 2013 #3 Posted July 8, 2013 I want to disconnect the electrical wires to my front anti-dives. I have installed progressives and want to get rid of the electrical sucking those lil monsters do. Where is the disconnect located at ? What do I need to disassemble to get to the disconnects ? The connectors are behind the headlight.
Flyinfool Posted July 8, 2013 #4 Posted July 8, 2013 I do not know how much the AD actually draws, But they are on the biggest fuse on the bike ay 20A. I will have to measure to see just what they draw. I still do notice a good dip in the voltmeter when I apply the brakes, I do have LED brake lights.
MasterGuns Posted July 8, 2013 #6 Posted July 8, 2013 Sure would be great info if someone could do just that....measure the electrical draw of the two front anti-dive units. I've heard they do draw a large amount of juice. So much that sitting at a very long light or being in really slow stop and go traffice can quickly become an concern. As soon as someone can post the draw, and if it is more than just a little, I will also be disconnecting mine. I do have Progressives and think the bike should be just fine without the ADs.
camos Posted July 8, 2013 #7 Posted July 8, 2013 I disconnected the AD on my Venture because when I was sitting at a light with the brakes on the voltage dropped into the basement. That situation was due mostly to my stator being on it's way out at the time. Didn't notice any excessive dive issues afterwards and the voltage did not drop as much when sitting with the brakes applied. Now that the stator is fixed the AD could probably be reattached but can't see much point to having them.
KIC Posted July 8, 2013 Author #8 Posted July 8, 2013 That is the reason that I want to disconnect them. When sitting at a light and the front brakes are applied the voltage meter on the dash drops down. For mine it is a noticeable draw and since I have the progressives, I don't need it. Thanks for the info on the location. Bill
KIC Posted July 8, 2013 Author #9 Posted July 8, 2013 The connectors are behind the headlight. Thanks. It was a 15 minute job. it was 6 or 8 Phillips screws. Removed headlight and there was a wire bundle on the left side. Carefully pulled out the bundle and the two connectors were in the back of the bundle. Popped them apart, taped them to other wires to keep them from just bouncing around, put back together.. 15 minutes of work... :happy65:I spent more time last weekend trying to figure out where they went and how to get to them...
Flyinfool Posted July 8, 2013 #10 Posted July 8, 2013 Good timely reminder. I just snagged the clamp on amp meter from work to take home with me tonight. Now whether or not I can get enough of the bike back together to take the measurements is another story.
mraf Posted July 10, 2013 #11 Posted July 10, 2013 Good timely reminder. I just snagged the clamp on amp meter from work to take home with me tonight. Now whether or not I can get enough of the bike back together to take the measurements is another story. Any luck yet on that measurement check?
bongobobny Posted July 10, 2013 #12 Posted July 10, 2013 Generally, solenoids nominally draw about 1/2 amp or less. There is an initial spike when it first energizes but that only lasts a fraction of a second...
Flyinfool Posted July 10, 2013 #13 Posted July 10, 2013 Not yet, I hope to attempt starting it tonight. If I get that far then I can get the measurement tomorrow.
bongobobny Posted July 11, 2013 #14 Posted July 11, 2013 OK I just did a bench test on an antidive solenoid and was quite surprised to find out they draw about 1.5 amps each, a little higher than the solenoids I'm used to working with. That means they are drawing around 36 watts total or leas than one driving light assuming 55 watts or the same as one 35 watt driving lamp. Hardly what I would call a huge draw...
bongobobny Posted July 11, 2013 #15 Posted July 11, 2013 PS I used a digital ammeter in series, not an amp clamp...
dingy Posted July 11, 2013 #16 Posted July 11, 2013 PS I used a digital ammeter in series, not an amp clamp... How does a clamp on amp meter work with DC ? I have only seen them for AC, have 2 actually. Gary
Flyinfool Posted July 11, 2013 #17 Posted July 11, 2013 If you buy one made for DC the clamp ons work quite well. We now have one in the lab at work cuz I told them I......errr.....they need it. The last place I worked at we used DC clamp on meters all the time. Sure beats breaking the circuit and hoping that the inrush does not pop the fuse in the meter. Tested against my Fluke connected in line, it is dead on. As to how they work. WARNING Technical stuff to follow...... http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_jbHyppMByw8/SrB6T-M483I/AAAAAAAADzc/usZDG4KtILE/s320/dc+clampmeter.jpg Ordinary clamp meters used to measure AC currents work on the principle of electromagnetic induction caused by the alternating current flowing in the conductor which reverses direction causing a dynamically changing magnetic field. However, in DC conductors, the current flows in a fixed polarity. Consequently, the magnetic field around the conductor is fixed and does not change. Hence, a conventional clamp meter will register no reading. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_jbHyppMByw8/SqTUoHWGCuI/AAAAAAAADzE/VqTh1WWhqZY/s320/Hall_effect.png A DC clamp meter works on the principle of the Hall Effect. The Hall Effect, named after Edwin Hall who discovered it 1879, states that when a conductor carrying current is placed in a magnetic field, a potential is induced across the conductor, transverse to an electric current in the conductor and a magnetic field perpendicular to the current. It is caused as the charge carriers, electrons or holes, experience a force known as the Lorentz force and are pushed to the sides of the conductor. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_jbHyppMByw8/SqTSFq2T62I/AAAAAAAADy8/MBn6ZAA5Cck/s320/Hall+effect+sensor.gif A clamp meter which works on the Hall effect has a sensor known as the Hall element. The Hall element is subjected to the magnetic field caused by the flow of current to be measured. This causes a small voltage across the Hall element. This voltage is amplified and measured.
Flyinfool Posted July 11, 2013 #21 Posted July 11, 2013 I only let certain people hold my rum balls.....
KIC Posted July 12, 2013 Author #23 Posted July 12, 2013 you all have taken my anti-dives to a lower level than where they are on the forks...
Yammer Dan Posted July 12, 2013 #24 Posted July 12, 2013 :bang head::bang head: Knew I shoulda stayed in the garage!!!
Flyinfool Posted July 12, 2013 #25 Posted July 12, 2013 And the verdict is.......... Drum-rollllllll............ Constant on with the bike running the AD pull 4.96 Amps. There is a peak surge of 5.12 Amps at the first moment the relay closes. Just bouncing the front end up and down the amps will rise to 5.08. The current does seem to go up slightly as you work the front suspension. I do not know if there would be a higher peak in a hard stop, I did not have a good way to test that, and survive. Take it for what its worth.
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