Removing a lowering kit

[darthandy]

My bike came with a lowering kit that I would like to remove. I don't need the extra leg room but I would like to improve the low speed handling. I haven't taken a look at the kit's links yet, but I wonder if I could just drill holes farther up the link to raise the bike. This is based on what I've read here saying that you need longer links to lower the bike and shorter links to raise it. Now of course, if the links are the type that widen at the spot where the mounting hole is then this won't work since the link will be too narrow. But, if it's the same width all the way up, can I do this? Also, could having the extra length of link hanging down cause a problem? And, finally, what else would I have to do to complete the "raising"? I know the caliper required a new bracket to change its mounting position so would I need a new bracket to return the caliper to the stock position?

 

Thanks,

 

Andy

[eusa1]

I have a complete stock kit that i could trade with you if you want it.

Mike

[darthandy]

I have a complete stock kit that i could trade with you if you want it.

Mike

 

Thanks for the offer. I'll keep it in mind. Right now, I'm thinking in terms of keeping the lowering kit available as a possible selling point since I may be looking at selling the bike.

 

Andy

[Mike G in SC]

A) you can simply leave the caliper at the lowered position.

This causes NO issues and has the benefit of being able to see and service the rear brake from a better position (don't have to pull much).

 

and

2) re-drilling the links probably won't work. 1/4" difference in the holes makes 1" on the bike. The stock links are shorter. Drilling out the lowering (longer) links, the hole would be too close or even some of same as the factory hole.

Suggest you simply get a set of stock links or leveling links for the bike.

You can make them, or as I did, have a fab shop make some.

 

So A+2,,,, leave the caliper alone and get other links. Been there twice.

 

Mike G

[darthandy]

A) you can simply leave the caliper at the lowered position.

This causes NO issues and has the benefit of being able to see and service the rear brake from a better position (don't have to pull much).

 

and

2) re-drilling the links probably won't work. 1/4" difference in the holes makes 1" on the bike. The stock links are shorter. Drilling out the lowering (longer) links, the hole would be too close or even some of same as the factory hole.

Suggest you simply get a set of stock links or leveling links for the bike.

You can make them, or as I did, have a fab shop make some.

 

So A+2,,,, leave the caliper alone and get other links. Been there twice.

 

Mike G

 

Thanks Mike. I had a suspicion it wouldn't be that easy. Probably best for me to just get the stock links. Good idea for the brake, too. Cuts down on what I need!

 

Andy

[Sylvester]

You may want to think about leveling links. Much better handling at slower speeds. That is if you have legs long enough for it. Makes about a 3/4 inch longer leg reach over stock.

 

[Condor]

Got a question...because I forgot... The span of a stock dog bone is 6" I think. By shortening the span a 1/4"...does it raise the rear?? And lengthening it by a 1/4" lower the rear??? Kinda the reverse of what you'd think.. Or am I upside down???

[Freebird]

That is correct Condor. Backwards from what you would first think.

[darthandy]

You may want to think about leveling links. Much better handling at slower speeds. That is if you have legs long enough for it. Makes about a 3/4 inch longer leg reach over stock.

 

 

Yeah, I don't think I quite have the reach for that. I had thought of dropping the front a bit once the rear was back up to stock level. I assumed that ground clearance would stay about where it is or still be a bit better. Then I would have the bike at a more level stance - basically the same idea as the leveling links but without the increase in ground clearance. I'm not too worried about ground clearance since I rarely scrape the boards these days unless I've dropped the air pressure in the rear shock a lot. Gettin' old, you know!

 

Andy