darthandy Posted July 4, 2013 #1 Posted July 4, 2013 I'm getting ready to bleed my front brakes, but I'm not sure that will solve the problem. What happens is this - when I apply the brakes, the lever gets stiff, as if it's sticking then it suddenly pulls in a bit more and seems to stick again and then lets go again. Obviously, trying to brake smoothly is almost impossible. If I head out to the highway and pull a few near-max effort stops (Well, slowdowns, actually as a full stop would be a dangerous move), it seems to improve for a day or so but then starts again. Still have plenty of pad material but I have no idea when the brakes were last bled. I'm just wondering if this might indicate a caliper problem since heating the brakes up with the high speed slow downs seems to help. It's as if something is melting then hardening back up. Anyone have this problem before? Andy
k9cottage Posted July 4, 2013 #2 Posted July 4, 2013 (edited) had a similar feeling problem when i first got my 99 it was the master cylinder where the leaver hits the piston [adjustment screw] it was dry i put a little dab of grease on it after that it was smooth as silk hope this helps. Edited July 4, 2013 by k9cottage
M61A1MECH Posted July 4, 2013 #3 Posted July 4, 2013 I had the exact same thing, was giving my wife whiplash every time I tried to break slowly for a light or stop sign, suddenly the lever would pull down and I would be jamming the breaks on. I first thought it was the pivot point , so I lubed that ,seemed to help, but was very short lived. Finely seeing that the brake fluid was getting discolored and needed changing, I removed the old fluid and while the master cylinder was empty I pulled the piston that the lever actuates, out and cleaned it and the flushed the bore with clean brake fluid. Put it all back together, refilled the master cylinder and flushed the lines with clean fluid, bled the brakes and all is good again. Just be very careful not to spill brake fluid on any painted surfaces or plastic parts. Probably could have been avoided if I was not so lazy and would change the fluids when they really need it , rather than pushing it and hoping it will be OK, but that is just me I suppose. the old pay me now or pay me later syndrome. Hope your fix is as easy as mine was.
darthandy Posted July 4, 2013 Author #4 Posted July 4, 2013 Thanks guys. I'll try both cures since I'm going to be bleeding the brakes anyway. Andy
N3FOL Posted July 5, 2013 #5 Posted July 5, 2013 Yes. I would recommend bleed it a few more times and be very very certain that there are no air pockets within the line. If you can, order yourself a pair of speedbleeders for your front caliper. It makes it a lot easier.
darthandy Posted July 5, 2013 Author #6 Posted July 5, 2013 Well I didn't have time to bleed it yet, but I did squirt a bit of Deep Creep to (Hopefully!!) dissolve any crap in that area and then put some lithium grease on it and worked the lever back and forth a bunch of times. It seemed to help and when I went out to fill the bike the action was now quite smooth. Of course, I have no idea how long that will last, but as I plan on doing more work anyway, I'll drain the system and clean that piston Steve mentioned then do some bleeding. That, I hope, will be a long lasting fix. Again, thanks all for the advice. Andy
djh3 Posted July 5, 2013 #7 Posted July 5, 2013 Im thinking if the fluid looks brownish change it out and flush system. My brakes were fine until I had to stress them last winter and the rears quit. Fluid didnt look bad to me but compaired to new fluid was dark. Been good since.
k9cottage Posted July 5, 2013 #8 Posted July 5, 2013 Well I didn't have time to bleed it yet, but I did squirt a bit of Deep Creep to (Hopefully!!) dissolve any crap in that area and then put some lithium grease on it and worked the lever back and forth a bunch of times. It seemed to help and when I went out to fill the bike the action was now quite smooth. Of course, I have no idea how long that will last, but as I plan on doing more work anyway, I'll drain the system and clean that piston Steve mentioned then do some bleeding. That, I hope, will be a long lasting fix. Again, thanks all for the advice. Andy has been a year and a half now and the dob of grease is still doing it's thing
Marcarl Posted July 5, 2013 #9 Posted July 5, 2013 Just so you are all aware, not all grease is compatible to brake systems. That's why they make dielectric as it won't break down the rubber components in the brake system.
IronMike Posted July 11, 2013 #10 Posted July 11, 2013 Just advise for all its cheap and easier to bleed the brakes every time you change the pads. If its just a bleed its real easy. If you ever change a line leave the connections cracked a bit while protecting your paint to bleed air out of the lines. Man you get air in there and its a real PITA. Brake fluid is a case where a ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Seconds the dielectric grease, carry a pill bottle of that on a trip, many needs on a repair. Lube o rings etc.
paysaw Posted September 23, 2013 #11 Posted September 23, 2013 I have a 87 Venture I am working on.I noticed after I took it around the parking lots fluid on the front right disk?Does anyone have any idea where this could be coming from? The front bakes seems to work fine.I have not looked into yet .There is oil on the front shock tubes as well.
skydoc_17 Posted September 23, 2013 #12 Posted September 23, 2013 Hey Ray, It's the right front Fork Seal, I'd Bet. If your brakes are good, then the only other fluid in the front fork area is those "pesky" seals. I keep them in stock if that would help. PM me if you like. Either way, count on replacing those seals. (might as well do both while you're in there) Earl
JerryK Posted September 30, 2013 #13 Posted September 30, 2013 I give mine a little WD40 about monthly at the front lever were it pushes the piston in.....Works great and cures your described problem.
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