reddevilmedic Posted July 3, 2013 #1 Posted July 3, 2013 oops. I forgot to remove the jumper wire when I took out the led's. no wonder the headlight was acting up. while I was in there, I resoldered the usual suspect areas. voila! running lights and headlights! electrical weenie.....
reddevilmedic Posted July 3, 2013 Author #2 Posted July 3, 2013 heres the finished product...minus the red jumper. ok, lets have it all you pros....
Yammer Dan Posted July 3, 2013 #3 Posted July 3, 2013 A little is good. More got to be better..... At least you had the nerve to get in thereand do it!! I wiggle mine for 15 minutes when I want to adjust. There's electric in there..:whistling:
Flyinfool Posted July 3, 2013 #4 Posted July 3, 2013 Before you put it back together. Clean off all of those little balls of solder. You don't want them to find a new home by themselves. There is a burnt looking trace in the upper right hand corner, Check that out to be sure all is good there.
reddevilmedic Posted July 3, 2013 Author #6 Posted July 3, 2013 that trace is broken, how do I fix it?
Sylvester Posted July 3, 2013 #7 Posted July 3, 2013 that trace is broken, how do I fix it? Maybe more solder...
dingy Posted July 3, 2013 #8 Posted July 3, 2013 (edited) Put a jumper wire from one of the thru lead components on either side of break. You had to put a lot of heat on that board to get all that solder on there. Not the best thing on a board like this. To much heat can lift traces off the FR4 substrate. Gary Edited July 4, 2013 by dingy
Flyinfool Posted July 3, 2013 #9 Posted July 3, 2013 Best way is add a jumper from a pad on one side of it to a pad on the other side of it. Second, see if you can figure out what circuit it is. There may be an issue on the bike that caused it to act like a fuse.
reddevilmedic Posted July 3, 2013 Author #10 Posted July 3, 2013 fr4 what? nevermind..the answer is more solder! like a pile of mashed potatoes! just kidding. I have no idea what that's for..any help? if its the class, mines gone. or cb, radio, intercom.
reddevilmedic Posted July 3, 2013 Author #11 Posted July 3, 2013 it had something to do with the high beam, the light on the dash flickered when in low. jumpered solved it.
mbrood Posted July 3, 2013 #12 Posted July 3, 2013 Solder is meant to be a mechanical connection with conductivity. For a break, always use a strand of copper and solder it across the break, long term it will thank you.
Marcarl Posted July 4, 2013 #13 Posted July 4, 2013 Solder is meant to be a mechanical connection with conductivity. For a break, always use a strand of copper and solder it across the break, long term it will thank you. Good point and something to remember.
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