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Posted

oops. I forgot to remove the jumper wire when I took out the led's. no wonder the headlight was acting up. while I was in there, I resoldered the usual suspect areas. voila! running lights and headlights! electrical weenie.....:sick:

Posted

A little is good. More got to be better.....:whistling: At least you had the nerve to get in thereand do it!!:clap2: I wiggle mine for 15 minutes when I want to adjust.

There's electric in there..:whistling::whistling:

Posted

Before you put it back together.

Clean off all of those little balls of solder. You don't want them to find a new home by themselves.

There is a burnt looking trace in the upper right hand corner, Check that out to be sure all is good there.

Posted (edited)

Put a jumper wire from one of the thru lead components on either side of break.

 

You had to put a lot of heat on that board to get all that solder on there. Not the best thing on a board like this. To much heat can lift traces off the FR4 substrate.

 

Gary

Edited by dingy
Posted

Best way is add a jumper from a pad on one side of it to a pad on the other side of it.

Second, see if you can figure out what circuit it is. There may be an issue on the bike that caused it to act like a fuse.

Posted

fr4 what? nevermind..the answer is more solder! like a pile of mashed potatoes! just kidding. I have no idea what that's for..any help? if its the class, mines gone. or cb, radio, intercom.

Posted

Solder is meant to be a mechanical connection with conductivity. For a break, always use a strand of copper and solder it across the break, long term it will thank you.

Posted
Solder is meant to be a mechanical connection with conductivity. For a break, always use a strand of copper and solder it across the break, long term it will thank you.

Good point and something to remember.

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