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Posted

when I read my owners manual ,it said check oil ... bike level ,, oil between marks,,,

 

question,::: i heard or seen or something somebody is checking oil on the center stand ,, I also seen somebody say low oil will overheat stator,,, ,if my bike is on the center stand like on my rebuild ,, then I check the oil when the bike is level on the tires there is allmost a quart difference,,,

 

what gives..and if it is at the top of the marks is it full ?? OR OVER FULL.. AND DEAD IN THE MIDDLE IS FULL. ,,

 

being a detail nut??,, or do i have a screw loose.??..the way i did it is right or wrong?????

 

EXACTLY WHAT IS FULL,, I DONT WANT TO BUY A STATOR ,, OR SEALS AGAIN,, RIGHT NOW IT DONT LEAK :detective::detective::detective::detective:

Posted

I always placed a 6 inch long 2x4 block of wood under the side stand to get the bike to "as near as" it would be if going down the road (minus my fat butt on the seat)

The I would check the oil level

Never ever had an issue doing it this way.

As you said, some say it's OK to check it on center stand.. some say do this and do that..

I just try to resemble what the level of the bike would be as if it was "moving down the road" when checking the oil. cant go wrong that way.

Posted

The owners manual says for checking oil level, to warm the engine first, then with the engine stopped, place the bike up on the centerstand and wait a few minutes for the level to settle before checking. The oil level should be between the upper and lower lines. The manual warns that a slight tilt to one side or the other can give a false reading.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'88VR

Posted
then I check the oil when the bike is level on the tires there is allmost a quart difference,,,

 

Like the name of a new Chinese baby... Sum Ting Wong

 

If it's LEVEL (ie, perpendicular to the ground), it shouldn't matter if it's on the centre stand or the tires.

 

what gives..and if it is at the top of the marks is it full ?? OR OVER FULL.. AND DEAD IN THE MIDDLE IS FULL. ,,

 

It's full if the level is just barely at the top; however, it is best to have it a bit over the centre of the sight glass (appx 1/2 way between centre and top).

Posted

If the oil is more than halfway up the sight glass, but below the top, it will not hurt anything.

BUT you will get blow by out the breather and the oil will accumulate in the air filter box and make a mess.

Center stand or on the wheels but upright makes very little difference, if you check it on the side stand you will end up way over filled.

I check it on the center stand because it is very hard to check it while sitting on it.

I put in 3 quarts and then start it and let it run for a minute or so to fill the filter and lines. I then top off to about 1/4 up from the bottom of the sight glass.

 

If you ask 10 different people on this site you are likely to have 10 different answers on this one.

Posted

If it's a 1stGen then put in on the center stand. If it's a 2ndGen do the Eck method. If it's a couple of cc's off one way or the other it ain't gonna make a hill of beans difference...

Posted
Lou,

The way to check the oil level on your First Gen is on the center stand on a level floor. Keep it halfway between the marks and you are good to go.

 

 

 

Yeah, what Kevin said.

 

:sign yeah that:

Posted

yea on the center stand look at the sight glass at the top outside edge you will see marks for full i fill it just below the mark on the side stand it will look like there is no oil in it but center and it fills the sight glass

Posted
on the side stand it will look like there is no oil in it but center and it fills the sight glass

 

 

Which is why you can change the clutch when on the side stand without loosing any oil at all!

Posted

THANK YOU ALL

 

I did the rebuild and filled it on the center stand.. actually put in 4 an 1/2 quarts and checked run , tuned run , started a bunch,, then rode it

 

checking on tires its 3/4 of a quart differense .. I added the extra, to make it dead between the marks,,

I have seen over full motors not leak yet lose power

,

at dead full ,, centered up on the tires ,,

then put level on the kickstand MY KICKSTAND IS ON A PIECE OF 3/4 INCH PLYWOOD I can see the oil at the bottom of the add mark,

 

so for real on the kickstand I can glance cold before I run into town and see oil IN THE MORNING I have no loss of power what so ever .IT has been that way for 2 weeks now no oil in the aircleaner ,and the way i run it if it was over full I WOULD HAVE OIL EVERYWHERE/... SHOULD BE ON THE GROUND , IN THE AIR CLEANER TOO

 

JUST AM CURIOUS BECAUSE I DIDNT KNOW FOR SURE ,

 

ON THE CENTER STAND THE MOTOR IS HIGHER IN THE BACK .SO OIL DRAINS FORWARD INTO SIGHT GLASS..

 

NOT ONLY THAT , IT SEEMS TO BE A REAL PAIN TO GET IT ON THE CENTER STAND ,,

QUESTION REALLY IS BECAUSE I AM LAZY. AND IF I REALLY GOT TO PUT IT ON THE CENTER STAND , I WOULD TAKE IT TO MACHINE SHOP , DRILL A HOLE FOR A DIP STICK.. AN TAP IT...

 

I HAVE DROPPED IT TRYING TO GET IT ON THE CENTER STAND 3 TIMES AND I JUST FIXED MY PLASTIC FOR THE LAST TIME .

 

..:cool10:TILL I METAL FLAKE IT NEXT MONTH:cool10:

Posted (edited)

Ok Lou, you're a big enough guy to learn this trick and scare your buddies with the lil mini bikes,

 

Bike sitting on sidestand.

 

Stand on left side of bike.

 

Left hand on left hand grip.

 

Right hand on left rear crash guard.

 

Ball of right foot on lever for center stand. (don't try this barefoot. Hurts like hell)

 

Bring the center stand down so both pads sit level on the ground. The bike should be standing straight up now.

 

Now here is the trick. While beginning to lift and pull backward with your upper body

 

STAND and I mean put all your body weight onto the center stand lever with your right leg and the bike will come right up.

 

It's that smple. Use your body weight on the lever instead of straining to use your upper body.

 

As the bike comes up all your arms should be doing is pulling back a bit and keeping the bike straight as it come up.

 

Once you get that mastered it's like a magic trick to show your buddies. :thumbsup2:

Edited by Snaggletooth
Posted

If you have CLASS just pump up your rear to maximum....that will lift the rear and make it easier to put it on the stand.

 

I drive the rear wheel up on a piece of 2x6 (2 x whatever) which makes it easier also.

Posted

I think he said on another post he had removed the CLASS so if he didn't install any schrader valves on the lines he's going to be sitting pretty low in water as it is.

 

2X4 or 6 or 8 will be his best bet.

Posted
Ok Lou, you're a big enough guiy to learn this trick and scare your buddies with the lil mini bikes,

 

Bike sitting on sidestand.

 

Stand on left side of bike.

 

Left hand on left hand grip.

 

Right hand on left rear crash guard.

 

Ball of right foot on lever for center stand. (don't try this barefoot. Hurts like hell)

 

Bring the center stand down so both pads sit level on the ground. The bike should be standing straight up now.

 

Now here is the trick. While beginning to lift and pull backward with your upper body

 

STAND and I mean put all your body weight onto the center stand lever with your right leg and the bike will come right up.

 

It's that smple. Use your body weight on the lever instead of straining to use your upper body.

 

As the bike comes up all your arms should be doing is pulling back a bit and keeping the bike straight as it come up.

 

Once you get that mastered it's like a magic trick to show your buddies. :thumbsup2:

:sign yeah that: :sign yeah that: :sign yeah that:

 

Its not about brawn or weight, It is all technique to get the bike up on the center stand.

I am not a small or wimpy person either, but I could not for the life of me get the bike up on the center stand. When I went back to the dealer that I bought it from I asked the salesman about it. He came outside and the bike just jumped up on center for him. He is all of 5'6" and maybe 120 lbs soaking wet with a lot of pocket change. Once he showed me how to do it, its nothing.

Posted

 

I did the rebuild and filled it on the center stand.. actually put in 4 an 1/2 quarts

 

:eek: That's a full quart more than I add when I change oil and filter.

 

So, are we leaving a quart of old oil in the engine nooks and crannies when we change the oil and filter?

Posted

I don't think so. With the oil plug out, the bottom bolt removed for the middle gear cover and all side covers off with a lot of twisting and leaning mine still only took about 3.5 with a new filter on it. :confused24:

Posted

My air ride does work,,,i noticed if it aint plugged in no air escapes,

 

When i would turn the key on i could hear it clicking a did ind after 4i clicks, it will lose a very little air

 

Plus the bracket it fits in dont look pretty no more,,

 

So i built me a glove box and keep the controller in a towel or leave it at home,,been two weeks and havent lost any air at all from where i set it,,,,it did get soldered twice by a tech and still aint right so it is a treasured piece,to be taken ccare of,, ,,,,,,it works

Posted

Lou, when you turn the key on the clicking you hear is probably the fuel pump. That is normal.

 

The CLASS controller only works in the ACC position and even then you won't hear anything until to hit a button to change the pressure. Even then it's more like a hum than a click when doing that. You can feel that placing a hand on the back of the trunk or seat.

Posted

it made noise when listening to the radio,, i listen to the radio a lot when I am working on the bike.. parked,, went fishing and it seemed to cycle on and off

 

i can play radio for 6 hours before my battery drags the starter

 

got it timed so if i walk off the phone tells me to start bike

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