Yamaha/Hannigan trike problem

[bigbob]

The bolts heads are (to me) odd looking. The heads have a more grooved surface than your usual 4 or 6 sided heads. You can clearly see them in both photos that Marcarl included. However neither of those two photos look exactly like the Hannigan kit on my bike. Those photos show a mount/brace that the shaft passes through. My Hannigan does not have that, the shaft itself goes to the differential without a brace. Is that a different maker trike kit in the photos? I have an appointment to take it to Sevierville, TN to the installer on Thursday. Hopefully I will get him to show/tell me of the things I need to keep check on in the future. I'm guessing a torque wrench purchase may be in my future. The one I have is 40+ years old!

 

 

Those bolts are "12 point head" and are VERY HARD

[ragtop69gs]

Any grade 8 bolt of proper length should work there. IMHO it's not worth the drive to have the shop replace them, unless you think it may have damaged the speed sensor. Just go buy them at a bolt supply or local hardware store.

[Prairiehammer]

Isn't the Hannigan differential a Ford unit?

 

Here is the bolts:http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1075_bolt_set_for_ford_rear_end_pinion_flange.html

[ragtop69gs]

Isn't the Hannigan differential a Ford unit?

 

Here is the bolts:http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1075_bolt_set_for_ford_rear_end_pinion_flange.html

 

Yep they are tbird rears flipped .

[Carbon_One]

Any decent auto parts store should have those bolts. A dab of blue Loctite and torqued down & you're good to go.

Larry

[Cougar]

I just got done looking for the grease (zert?) and it took 12 pumps of the grease

gun to fill the U Joint. So some of you might want to look into that

as well. Keep in mind I am at 5 years on my trike. so keep an eye out for that

as well in your trikes future years.

OR check -- put a grease gun on it and see if its full maybe.

 

Jeff

[ragtop69gs]

Just got under our trike, 1 bolt missing already !!! This seems to be a problem everyone should look at ASAP

[bongobobny]

I'm almost afraid to...

[Bob Myers]

The bolts heads are (to me) odd looking. The heads have a more grooved surface than your usual 4 or 6 sided heads.

 

That is typical of the bolts used on a Ford rear axle to Driveshaft, they usually have a dab of blue locktite on them

[Carbon_One]

Today Jay and I went to the Ford dealer and purchased Ford's bolts for an exact replacement bolt. They did have some type of thread sealant on them in 2 places. Jay can report the part number later if anyone is interested. Oh they were $2.40 each as well so didn't think that was too bad.

I only have a 1000 miles on this trike so far but will be checking those bolts as well. Better safe than sorry later.

Larry

PS: I checked the u-joint bolts on my 09 this evening and found all to be tight. It appeared Hannigan's mechanic also paint marked them as to being torqued or tightened. I did give the joint 3 or 4 pumps of grease to fill the cups up.

Edited May 31, 2013 by Carbon_One
Up dated info

[ragtop69gs]

If anyone's interested, the flange bolt part number is N800594.S100 Some ford dealers may stock them, some will need to order them. They fit the mid 80's 8.8" Ford T-Bird rear end.

[Cougar]

thanks guys:thumbsup2:

[Cougar]

Here is what the 90 deg fitting looks like and the part number

if anybody is interested, for the fittings under the front part of the fender.

maybe tilt your head a bit

[ATTACH]77660[/ATTACH]

[Guest Lightnen]

Here is what the 90 deg fitting looks like and the part number

if anybody is interested, for the fittings under the front part of the fender.

maybe tilt your head a bit

[ATTACH]77660[/ATTACH]

 

 

Just checked my bolts and everything seems to be tight with mine but then again I had mine done just before Carbon-One had his triked. Will need to change the grease fitting on the U joint for its a straight and did not try to put gun onto it might later on. Never saw any paint on bolts Larry guess you had a different guy working on yours. LOL

There is a couple of things I did notice on our trip down to Daytona (end of May) was that now my speed-O-meter is pretty much right on now in stead of being 5K out. Also you can run off the axillary tank first if one choices to. Found this out down in Titisville when my trike stalled and would not start. Sat there scratching my head for a bit then just happened to reach down to the main fuel valve and found it shut off. I'd shut it off the other day and forgot about that.

Anyways I LOVE my Hannigan.

 

Lightnen

[Cougar]

You won't need a angle fitting for the U-Joint. works fine with the straight.

 

The angle ones are for the TWO (one on each side) up front on top behind

the fender. stick your hand up in there and you will feel them. no way to grease

those unless you have a angle fitting. like you say your is brand new and shinny

just worry about it in the next couple years

[lvsloan1]

:confused24:My wife and I ride a 1990 Venture Royale that was triked in 2001 and rides SOOO ROUGH it feels like riding a hard tail Harley. We bought the trike because my wife can't ride anymore on our 2 wheel dresser due to a recent back injury. She was doing pretty good for 1 or 2 short trips but started hurting so bad she has now started driving the car on our CMA runs because of the roughness of the trike. However, she rode w/ a friend on his Goldwing trike that has the same Motortrike conversion, the same solid axle rearend, & the same suspension as our Yamaha has but she couldn't believe how much smoother the Goldwing rode! Both our trike & the Goldwing have the 7.5 ford differential w/ 2 progressive shocks in front of the rear end and 2 air shocks in rear of the rear end. Both are driveline driven but ours won't give us a smooth ride regardless of the air pressure in the shocks and if I go to low on air pressure, the trike will bottom out on bumps. I can see where it has been bottoming out a lot before we bought it due to the dugout place in the trike frame above the rear end where the bar goes up from the rear end to the frame for centering the differential from side to side. Any suggestions for fixing this hard riding problem? Just going over small bumps in the roads will jar me like the trike has no suspension at all. Thanks in advance for any help!!!!!

[Bob Myers]

Sort of sounds like you need a higher spring rate on the coil overs so that the air shock isn't needed until overload situation. I presume it is an automotive air shock? Those thing have way too small air bladder to produce anything but a harsh ride.

Who is manufacturer of the shock/coilover?

Weigh the rear end of your trike and get with the manufacturer and allow them to correctly size the spring for your load. It obviously is way under sized now.

[First_N_Last]

A few pics of the drive shafts.

 

Thanks for the pics - now I have something else to do. LOL

 

jb

 

mine were all tight

Edited August 23, 2013 by First_N_Last