labill Posted May 25, 2013 #1 Posted May 25, 2013 Turned on key, nothing. Battery good, both fuses good. Need help. Thanks, labill
GolfVenture Posted May 25, 2013 #2 Posted May 25, 2013 Kill switch? Hows the horn, lights, turn signals etc?
djh3 Posted May 25, 2013 #4 Posted May 25, 2013 Ugh these ignition switch things sure seem to be poping up here lately. Got me scared. I was told many years ago dont hang lots of keys on your bike ignition key as it is bad on switch. Therfore I haven had more than one key on it for many years. Does that seem to be a factor? Or is it just dumb luck?
rougeray Posted May 25, 2013 #5 Posted May 25, 2013 When you say nothing do you mean no headlight and no dash lights? If so check the main fuse at the starter relay. It is located behind the left side cover to the right of the fuse box. I am replacing the whole relay this morning as the socket the fuse sits in was totally corroded as was the 4 pin connector. This is the second one I have replaced. Gonna try some dielectric grease this time!
labill Posted May 25, 2013 Author #6 Posted May 25, 2013 No lights, horn anything. All fuses alright. Don't know if ignition or kill switch.
GolfVenture Posted May 25, 2013 #7 Posted May 25, 2013 Besides the normal bank of fuses there 1 or 2 huge main fuses. I've never had issues with them but maybe one of those. The are really close to the (-) side of the battery on a 1st Gen. Don't know about a 2nd Gen. Maybe someone more experienced would comment about them?
Mike G in SC Posted May 25, 2013 #9 Posted May 25, 2013 (edited) Will it jump start? (can jump from car,,,, car not running. Cables to battery, not thru a battery tender connector.) Edit: Oh, sorry, just saw your part about battery good. Edited May 25, 2013 by Mike G in SC
LilBeaver Posted May 25, 2013 #10 Posted May 25, 2013 You have not really given us much to work with here in helping you. If you really have NOTHING -- meaning, lights, dash lights, horn, starter, radio, radio lights, etc etc the absolute first thing to check is the main 30A fuse [which is NOT in either of the other two fuse boxes]. Clean the battery terminals and check your cable connections. Trace the positive wire lead to the main 30A fuse and starter relay, check and clean those connections. Get a multi meter and check for power at one of the accessory plugs to see if your bike is getting power there. If the engine cut off (kill) switch is toggled into the 'stop' position, you will get everything except power to the starter when the starter button is pressed and power to the fuel pump. The "typical" mode of failure for the ignition switch is that the contacts fail when in the 'on' position, meaning that your radio lights will still function when the key is in the ACC position. Now, there are other ways for the ignition switch to fail (such as the connections under the tank) but if I would suspect a bad connection, bad battery or blown fuse main fuse before the ignition switch at this point. Checking to see if you get power by jumping the battery is a good check as well. (I know you said 'battery good' but what does that mean? How did you test the battery?) Again, a little more information in your posts should help us help YOU
labill Posted May 25, 2013 Author #11 Posted May 25, 2013 Ignition gremlin did not get me. Battery showed it has juice. Went thru everything but nothing worked. Daughter cam by and said "Dad try my battery" and dad said its not battery. She insisted so took her battery out and guess what, it started. Thanks for all who helped. I guess dad doesn't always know best. labill
Snaggletooth Posted May 25, 2013 #12 Posted May 25, 2013 Daughter cam by and said "Dad try my battery" and dad said its not battery. She insisted so took her battery out and guess what, it started. I guess dad doesn't always know best. labill Note to self: Do not let my daughter see this post!!! She'll start counting off "I told ya's". Glad it was a simple problem. Now you have checked everything else you should be good for a while.
Mike G in SC Posted May 26, 2013 #13 Posted May 26, 2013 (edited) Will it jump start? (can jump from car,,,, car not running. Cables to battery, not thru a battery tender connector.) Edit: Oh, sorry, just saw your part about battery good. EDIT: Never mind about the previous edit. Smart Kid! Remember Chief, she may pick your nursing home. Edited May 26, 2013 by Mike G in SC
djh3 Posted May 26, 2013 #14 Posted May 26, 2013 Had a simular issue with the wifes car last winter. Car would start, then you could go out later same day or may be tomorrow and click click. So I check stuff everything looks ok. Clean terminals varoom. So I think I'm good. A day or so later same thing. Long story short had battery tested and said was OK, a little low on cca but not terribe. Backtracking troubleshooting second time had battery checked was 200 something cca on a 700+ battery. Best guess was the plates were bad but happened to make good connection first check. So your new battery did you go with an AGM?
dacheedah Posted May 26, 2013 #15 Posted May 26, 2013 always start simple and work backwards, I was told never jump them from a running car
labill Posted May 27, 2013 Author #16 Posted May 27, 2013 Went with AGM. The AGM gave me 2 1/2 years service. Not to bad. Thanks to all for helping. Forgot, daughter told wife. labill
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