85 xvz1200 Starter Replacement

[Rick]

I'm searching for help in replacing the starter in my 85 Venture xvz1200.

Had lots of problems removing the thermostat housing... one hex bolt and one bolt with a phillips head!! Can't believe they would use that... nearly 30 years old and welded in tight! Once the housing was loosened and moved aside, I removed the two bolts on the starter and now I'm stuck! Someone said they just pried the starter out with a large screwdriver... mine wouldn't budge. I managed to feed a small bar past the frame in front of the shift lever and place it on the end of the starter and tapped it a few times... it moved out a little bit, then stopped... so I hit it harder and harder... until a piece of the starter case cracked off... so I quit for the day. Luckily, I already have a replacement starter ready to go... Any suggestions on getting the old starter to "pop out"?

Edited May 24, 2013 by Rick

[Peder_y2k]

WD40

[Snaggletooth]

I'm not surprised on the thermo housing. I belive both OEM screws were Phillips heads. Most get stripped out pretty early in the game. Allen heads would be a worthwhile replacement for them and don't forget to reseal the housing with new.

 

 

As for the started housing being stuck, penatrating oil is your best bet. Like you said, been on there a long time. The o-ring on the neck of the starter is old and stiff and there will be a lot of buildup on the forward body that extends into the case. With the position the starter is in it's hard to pull it straight back.

 

If you have a strap wrench, or even a plier type oil filter wrench you can try to give it a lil twist action to work it loose. Once you get it moving you should be in better shape. It does have to come back quite a ways, hence the thermo housing removal.

 

Let it soak over night and try again tomorrow.

[Rick]

Thanks! You guys are awesome! I'll spray it down tonight and try again tomorrow.

[luke000]

When all else fails, get a bigger hammer..........WD40 and just keep at it is about all I can say.

[Snaggletooth]

You youngun' need to understand hammers. Two sizes. One for fixin' stuff and one for removing stuff.

 

Luke...... you can move one step forward and pick up your award.

 

One roll of duct tape. You keep after that hammer stuff you're going to need it.

[Rick]

Well, after spraying down with wd-40, I took up the challenge and got a bigger hammer... and after several good whacks, I felt movement! On my back with wd-40 dripping in my eye, I grabbed a hold of the starter and wiggled it out! Only one problem... it didn't all come out! The Pointy "nose cone" broke free from the end cap and remains lodged firmly in place! I've soaked it down with liquid wrench this time and banged away with a hammer and pry bar, but no success.

I hope nobody is going to tell me there is a retaining clip or something inside the housing...

I'll post a few pics so you can share my joy... and maybe someone can suggest my next move...

Thanks again, everyone!!

 

[Prairiehammer]

WOW!

Never seen anyone have that problem. Must have used a BIG hammer. There is no circlip. just aluminum "nose cone" that is apparently corroded into the aluminum engine case. As it appears you can do more damage to the starter, perhaps some judicious application of heat will help and a pipe wrench? Since it is VERY tight, be cautious about breaking the engine case.

[Snaggletooth]

Nope, no clips, no retainer. It's just a slip fit. The tightest part of the connection is the o-ring. What you're up against now is the nose piece is probably cocked in the case. It will need to be worked, gently, back to a straight position so it can be worked out.

 

At this point, take all caution. Any more heavy hits are putting you at risk of damaging the case.

[Big Lou]

Id try to knock nose back in just a bit to straight,en in hole, twist with large channellocks or a rag, cuts,, when its out take emery cloth or steel wool. Theres going to be varnish from oil. Deposits,,, since you got water apart better change, orings,,mine leaked.. i tried, 4 shops, i dont like internet buying cause of bad, experiences, they had to order, ,,i diddnt wait an never will buy a soft part from a dealer again,,all mine in the whole bike.came from a truck shop. .cat,, all are cat now..find one fitts tight,an like me take a triangle 3 sidded file, =o around tube three times , keep test fitting till it goes in. Slow an easy,,time,and no more dealer telling you,"I'll need to order it'.... you need to clean hole at any rate,an now its exposed change the oil,all the broke peice are in it

[Rick]

I'll try more liquid wrench and tap the remaining part back in a bit to see if it will straighten out and maybe move a bit so I can try to extract it again. If all else fails, can I open the access plate and tap it out from the inside? Probably way more than I wanted to do...

 

[dingy]

I'll try more liquid wrench and tap the remaining part back in a bit to see if it will straighten out and maybe move a bit so I can try to extract it again. If all else fails, can I open the access plate and tap it out from the inside? Probably way more than I wanted to do...

 

 

There is not an 'Access Plate'. The whole stator cover & middle drive cover need to come off, in order to see it from the inside. This will mean you need gaskets for these two covers. The stator must have a gasket in place or starter gear train will bind. Permatex only will not work.

 

1st picture shows inside stator cover, but without starter or gear train. 2nd shows gear train setting in stator cover, this is not how they get reassembled, they are in block, just took a picture this way.

 

As mentioned before, go easy with the big tools or you can crack the case, and then you are fubared. Tapping it back in gentle may be a good option.

 

A picture may be very helpful at this point. Some of us have removed starter many times. It's situations like this that you do not want to try drastic things and let some experienced people help.

 

Call me if you want, I will be home most of the day. Number is in my profile.

 

Gary

[Rick]

When I first started trying to tap this starter out, I sprayed with wd40 and tried prying, but it only laughed at me... half hour of more spray and gentle tapping didn't do it... the next day, after being drenched in wd40 overnight, I resorted to the bigger hammer, which proves with a big enough hammer you can break anything...

Hope today goes better... if not, I may have a lot of parts available for sale!

 

[mbrood]

Similar materials here can gall and sieze. Pentrants won't mean a thing. I would use the pipe wrench idea and try and rotate the remains a bit one way and then the other, for that you DO want a couple good shots of penetrant.

[greg_in_london]

I would also buy some proper penetrant, rather than WD40, which was made to protect exposed surfaces, even if it is handy for a lot more than that.

 

If you're going to tap the nose back in, obviously clean the surface up as much as possible first and smear it with MS2 grease.

 

As you can get in, you might be able to put some big spanners into the gap and then put a bar between to prise it out rather than rely on a hammer, but that depends on the spanners and access that you have.

[Rick]

Hey guys... Thanks for all your help and suggestions!

Just had a nose-cone "splashdown"... Out of the bike and into a puddle of WD40!

I worked another 2 hrs today tapping, spraying, prying and finally a bit of movement by attaching some vice-grips onto the remnants and tapping it upwards 1/2 inch then down again, spray and repeat... About a thousand times... I bought a small pry bar to get behind the back side and positioned the bar so as I tapped on it, it applied a striking force on the opposite side I was already able to get to!

Anyways... What a job! Thanks again, everyone!