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Posted

So I am in the process of removing my TCI unit on an 83 Venture. Didn't realize that it is packed into a bracket that is stuffed into a spot above the front heads. Ended up removing the total fairing and inner fairing pieces to get at it. Removed the 4 bolts holding the bracket. but now wonder how to get the unit out to remove the TCI unit. Talk about a cluster you know what. Read somewhere that if the TCI unit is moved to the top of the airbox that it may cure the problem of a troublesome unit caused by engine heat. I am in hopes the info was correct.

My bike will run fine but then cuts out after it heats up and won't start until things cool down.

Heard that the TCI unit develops moisture and screws up when heated up.

Just wondering if anyone else has tried to move the TCI unit to the top of the air box.

Posted

Yes moving the TCI is a common chore. Most put it on the air box- I've heard of one or three who put it in the left side fairing. The usual method is to cut off one of the tabs (off the TCI) and place it with the plug-ins facing to the left side. Put a wood screw or such coarse thread into the remaining tab after placing the unit up forward with slim clearance of the battery. This leaves clearance for the cover/fake fuel tank panel.

Posted

yea take it out put it in the oven for 20 min at 150 take out let cool and move to top of air box or you will have problems with Boomers pygmies showing up to help :whistling::rotf::rotf:

Posted
So I am in the process of removing my TCI unit on an 83 Venture. Didn't realize that it is packed into a bracket that is stuffed into a spot above the front heads. Ended up removing the total fairing and inner fairing pieces to get at it. Removed the 4 bolts holding the bracket. but now wonder how to get the unit out to remove the TCI unit. Talk about a cluster you know what. Read somewhere that if the TCI unit is moved to the top of the airbox that it may cure the problem of a troublesome unit caused by engine heat. I am in hopes the info was correct.

My bike will run fine but then cuts out after it heats up and won't start until things cool down.

Heard that the TCI unit develops moisture and screws up when heated up.

Just wondering if anyone else has tried to move the TCI unit to the top of the air box.

If you go through the trouble of doing this, I hope it works for you........but. It sounds similar to the problem that I had with mine when I got it. I had a bad pick-up coil. The bike ran fine for the first 10+ mins, then lost all power, and would sometimes quit. It would not start until it cooled down. my 2 cents

Posted (edited)

WOW, took it out the hard way...I see.

 

FYI- access is on the RIGHT side. Need either a JIS #3 (japanese industry standard ) screwdriver Or a high quality regular #3 phillips tip that you have in a socket driver. These high quality #3 tips are sold at Lowes and have ridges on them. Place one in a 1/4 drive socket. And use electrical tape to hold it in. Then with adapters and such mount to a 3/8 rachet.You actually only need to remove the plactic cover that sits directly on the valve cover(this removes to the right) and lower RIGHT side fairing. Using socket/rachet drive allows you up force to keep a standard #3 phillips from slipping out. ALL Jap bikes do NOT use phillips ...it's JIS screws. JIS screwdrivers are only sold on line. I speak from 25+ years with my Venture.:detective:

Edited by jasonm.
Posted

Got the unit out and modified the airbox so when the TCI unit is mounted the fake tank cover will fit. Ended up removing both left and right fairing. My right one needs some of the mount tabs repaired as the fairing is broken. Put the TCI unit in the sun to dry it out but will do the oven thing to make sure. My bike has all the accessories available so there are extra fuse boxes mounted to the air box and the wiring, well you can imagine. Also got rid of the bottle fuse box and replaced it with a modern day unit. Have some blank terminals in the new fuse box so may take some from the accessory box and move them. Fun stuff on a rainy day.

Posted (edited)

I MADE a correction above. Actually access is thru the RIGHT side. Yes, getting the old glass fuses out are a big step forward. I also did that fuse block change back in 1990 on mine. Fairing issues. Try Devcon Plastic welder or Permatex brand plastic welding epoxy(Advance Auto). Both of these are amazing and set up in minutes. While they set up you can "mold" the stuff using saran(plastic) wrap. Once you have it shaped with the plastic wrap..The glue does not stick to plastic wrap once it starts to set up.. . Wait 3-6 minutes - peel the wrap off as it gets warm. and off before the glue gets hot & bubbles due to lack or air.

Edited by jasonm.

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