Thousand mile trip on my '86 VR

[Chicago]

I'm leaving in a month for a thousand mile trip and I'd like some advice on pre-trip maintenance.

The PO told me the guy he bought it from went through everything, but I have no way of knowing that.

The bike starts and runs great, no weird noises or vibrations. I ride it 60 miles a day to work and back, some town, some slab.

Since I bought it last year I've replaced the windshield, done an oil change, installed an eBay oil filter adapter, adjusted the idle speed and tire pressure and fixed the warm air vent.

Before I leave, I was thinking of lubricating the throttle cables, checking the brake pads for wear, checking the rear diff fluid, brake fluid and clutch fluid. The tires are like new Dunlop D404's. I run 40 psi front and rear.

Anything else I haven't thought of?

[Squidley]

Chris,

 

Your on the right track, change out all the brake fluids, including the clutch. If you haven't changed the pads, do it, then you have a starting point for your maintenance records. I always do a complete tune up on any bike I get that I dont know the maintenance of personally. New plugs, wires and caps, new fuel filter. Also make sure your carbs are synchronised, there's brothers in the Michigan neck of the woods that can and will help you with that.

 

Take a copy of the VR assistance list with you just in case you have any issues. There are lots of folks all over the country how will drop what they are doing to come help a members out. You'll get others to chime in as well...have fun on your trip and if you dont have plans the weekend of June 8th, come to Oberlin Ohio SW of Cleveland for Freebirds Maintenance Day

[Snaggletooth]

Sounds like you have a grip on it but I'm going to throw in one more thing. You mentioned the tires were "like new" and I don't know how long you you have actually had the bike. But you might want to check the date codes on the side walls to see how old they really are. A complete check of the tires conditon for wear, cracks and any damage of any kind will save you misery on the road.

 

When I bought my '84 the tires did look brand new. Still casting nipples on them. But they were over 12 years old. Never put a mile on them. Just replaced them.

[Chicago]

I should've mentioned the tires. Both front and rear have a greasy film on the sidewalls. Could my wheel bearings be going, or maybe fork seals/rear shock?

[chabicheka]

I'm leaving in a month for a thousand mile trip and I'd like some advice on pre-trip maintenance.

The PO told me the guy he bought it from went through everything, but I have no way of knowing that.

The bike starts and runs great, no weird noises or vibrations. I ride it 60 miles a day to work and back, some town, some slab.

Since I bought it last year I've replaced the windshield, done an oil change, installed an eBay oil filter adapter, adjusted the idle speed and tire pressure and fixed the warm air vent.

Before I leave, I was thinking of lubricating the throttle cables, checking the brake pads for wear, checking the rear diff fluid, brake fluid and clutch fluid. The tires are like new Dunlop D404's. I run 40 psi front and rear.

Anything else I haven't thought of?

 

Dont forget the toothbrush!.......

[Snaggletooth]

Both front and rear have a greasy film on the sidewalls. Could my wheel bearings be going, or maybe fork seals/rear shock?

 

If it's on both tires, and they looks clean and shiny I suspect the PO many have treated the tires with a tire cleaning and dressing agent. That does darken the rubber and leave a coating.

 

If you look at the directions on these types of cleaners in the automotive stores they say NOT to use that product on motorcycle tires. It is slick and when the tire gets wet the residue may run into the contact area.

 

But I'm just guessing on that. But it it's possible if you just got the bike.

[flyM92]

I always check my wallet to make sure it opens and closes properly and is topped off...

[Chicago]

That could be it. I'll clean them off real good and see if it comes back.

[timgray]

To clean that crud off the tires.

 

Get some dishwashing detergent and mix about 2 Tablespoons in a small bucket. scrub down the tires and rims with it. dont wash t he bike with it unless you are ready to re-wax the whole bike. Dishwash soap will strip wax off of everything.

 

This will get the tire dressing off and clean up the crud on the wheels very nicely. Now get in there and wax the shiny parts of the wheels so they dont corrode.

[Chicago]

OK, I cleaned the crud off my tires, checked the brake pads, clutch and brake fluid levels, all good.

 

Then I checked the coolant. Brown freakin' mud! For all I know, it's never been changed. I tried to use the plastic drain but even thought I turned it every which way but loose, I couldn't get on drop out of it. So I pulled the water pump drain and got about 1-1/2 to 2 quarts of mud out of it. So I left the drain plug out and poured clean water into the radiator until it ran clean out of the drain. Then I installed the drain, filled the radiator, ran the bike until the thermostat opened, drained the mud, lather, rinse, repeat until I drained clean water. I made sure to have the bike running while I filled the radiator once the bike was warm. Tomorrow when the bike is cool I will fill the radiator and coolant recovery tank with full-strength antifreeze. It's a three-quart system with about 1-1/2 quarts of clean water in the block, so that should get me to a 50-50 mix.

[Venturous Randy]

I tried to use the plastic drain but even thought I turned it every which way but loose, I couldn't get on drop out of it. So I pulled the water pump drain and got about 1-1/2 to 2 quarts of mud out of it. So I left the drain plug out and poured clean water into the radiator until it ran clean out of the drain. QUOTE]

 

Chris, if you turned the plastic hex located behind the bottom of the radiator, that is not a drain, but a thermostat by-pass. When you are done filling the system, make sure the top of the letters are pointing toward the five o'clock position. You can torn it the other way during filling the system and it will help.

Oh, one other thing, you should join our little group. It will be the best $12 you will ever spend on your bike.

RandyA

[Snaggletooth]

 

Yep, these are the positions for the drain valve.

 

The 1st shot is in the "OFF" position at the 2 o'clock mark. That is the correct spot for operation of the bike with coolant passing through the thermostat.

 

The 2nd shot is with the "ON" at the 2 o'clock position. This is only used to bypass the thermo while draining the coolant from the system through the plug in the bottom of the waterpump housing. After filling the system and running the bike for a bit to refill the jackets make sure to reset the valve back to the "OFF" setting.

 

When filled check the coolant level at the overflow bottle.

 

In either position you should feel the valve click into place if the detent in the valve is clean and sealed propery.

 

NOW..... in the event that someday the bike might have a thermostat fail and stick shut you can move that valve to the "ON" position and bypass the thermo and be able to ride the bike to a safe place to make repairs. It's not a fix, it's a get by to save you from being stranded. Not a good idea for normal day to day operation.

 

And keep an eye on your new coolant. With the description of the "brown mud" there may have been some oil in there.

[Chicago]

So in normal operation the lettering on the valve should be upside down? That's an odd way to engineer something.

[Snaggletooth]

Have you ever questioned Windows?

 

"Start" button to end program function?

 

Don't ask me why........ I have no idea.

 

At least it's right when draining. It's "ON".

[Big Lou]

I definetly second

 

CHECK ALL HOSES FOR SPONGEENESS,,,,

:CHANGE ALL FLUIDS

[Chicago]

I want to thank you all for your great advice. Not only have you helped me relieve my doubts about the trip, but you have helped me to become more familiar with my bike. I've got fresh coolant in her and ran her up to operating temp with no leaks whatsoever, then I let her cool down and reinstalled the plastics. I think I'm good to go.

[Big Lou]

It is possible, brown mud is Barr's stop leak,,,

 

If it is;,,,,,, in a few days the leak it stopped up.... will return,,

PO may have put it in,,,,look for it,,,,

 

:detective:Aluminun dont turn brown!!!!!!!

[Chicago]

It is possible, brown mud is Barr's stop leak,,,

 

If it is;,,,,,, in a few days the leak it stopped up.... will return,,

PO may have put it in,,,,look for it,,,,

 

:detective:Aluminun dont turn brown!!!!!!!

 

You got that right! I went out this evening to find a puddle of coolant under my bike. It's coming from the thermostat housing. From everything I've read here, I've got to replace the cover and O-rings and I might as well replace the t-stat while I'm at it. Looks like my trip's canceled. Of course, it's better to find the problem in my garage that 500 miles from home.

[Big Lou]

if housing aint busted , an oring is 4.00 at yamaha

if it is just screw hole stretched put a washer on it

 

me personally , i am a deisel mech. and i took a thin cat oring and took a triangle file and with plattic in my hand i filed to a tight fit the plastic put on oring and took it off ,for me it is now reusable and i dont need glue.

just make sure oring fit tight on housing ,,

 

for me it was free and some elbow grease ,,if you look on here you will fing a part number for bottom radiator hose at napa for 4,00

so for real 8,00 and some elbow grease

 

yall have fun now u here

[frankd]

If you pull the plug out that's below the water pump turn the thermostat bypass to the bypass position, and remove the radiator cap, the motor will be 95% drained. If you want to get the last little bit out, you can take the covers off of the sides of each cylinder (remove the phillips screw) and then pull out the rubber plugs. You can screw and old spark plug into the plugs to remove them. Each cylinder will have a tiny bit of water in the water jacket. Put the rubber plugs back into each cylinder, and replace the water pump plug. Then mix the coolant 50/50 before you put it in the bike. Fill up the radiator and with the thermostat bypass still in the bypass position, start the bike. Top up the radiator, and then put the radiator cap back on. Turn the thermostat bypass back to the normal position, and fill the coolant reservoir to about 1/2 full. Run the bike for a couple of days and then fill the reservoir to the full mark with a warm engine. BTW, have the bike on the center stand when you do all of this.

 

Join this web site... it WILL be the best $12 you ever spent.

[Chicago]

I already did all those things. That's why my bike leaks. If I had done this in March like any sane person with a 27 year-old bike would do, I'd be ready to go now. I have no one to blame but myself. Big Lou, if my bike breaking down wouldn't inconvenience a half-dozen friends, I might take a chance. From everything I've read here, the only permanent solution is a new cover. I already ordered it up from Boats.net for around $20 to my door. I'll fix it right and it'll be good for another 27 years.

[davide62]

Yes, if you can, install a new radiator valve. Many riders have recommended this so that your VR doesn't ride so hot.

 

Also, can you tell me what you did regarding the Ebay oil

[Chicago]

Finally getting around to working on the bike (I know, it's been a year) and I have two questions. First, how do you get to the rear allen head cap screw on the water outlet? Do I have to drop the exhaust pipe? Second, what is this and where did it come from? It looks like dried coolant that has corroded the aluminum.