tz89 Posted May 16, 2013 #1 Posted May 16, 2013 Saw this YouTube video referenced in Maker magazine. In it a cheapo dremmel-like tool is used to spin a plastic rod, and the friction heats it and the two work pieces to weld them together. Think this would work on motorcycle body parts? ABS? [ame= ] [/ame]
CaptainJoe Posted May 16, 2013 #2 Posted May 16, 2013 Pretty slick.. She welded styrene which is a lot harder than ABS The welding sticks you can get at HF are round and although softer... should work. I'm gonna have to try this out. Thanks!
etcswjoe Posted May 16, 2013 #3 Posted May 16, 2013 I got one of these for Christmas when I was a kid you used them to put model cars together instead of glue but I guess they were not really "safe" so they were discontinued. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IiACyulRE78]1975 Mattel Spinwelder Chopper Factory TV commercial - YouTube[/ame]
DragonRider Posted May 16, 2013 #4 Posted May 16, 2013 If it works that good, how come someone hasnt come up with it sooner..........it would be a great tool for us 1st gen owners...........I could have fixed a lot of broken plastic a lot quicker with better results.
wideopenrod Posted May 16, 2013 #6 Posted May 16, 2013 WOW! OK, I have done the plastic welding with my soldering iron, and that worked really well; however, this looks a heck of a lot easier! Heading to Hobby Lobby to pick up some styrene rods to try this out sometime soon. Will styrene meld with ABS? I have a cracked rear arm rest to try it out on.....
Trader Posted May 16, 2013 #7 Posted May 16, 2013 Would be really tough to weld a butt joint. (side to side). With the T weld the corner helps hold the rod in place....with a butt joint it would wander all over the place.
Condor Posted May 16, 2013 #8 Posted May 16, 2013 The heck with the welding.... Fran's a hoot.... :rotf:
Freebird Posted May 16, 2013 #9 Posted May 16, 2013 As already stated, welding ABS should be much easier. The melting point of Styrene is about 460F where ABS is around is around 221F. Big difference.
tz89 Posted May 16, 2013 Author #10 Posted May 16, 2013 In the magazine article they said ABS will work. You can buy ABS rods or use scrap. They had a butt joint recommendation. Cut, sand or grind a V. Use shorter rods. Fill any gaps between the pieces. Weld a bottom layer, a middle layer, and a top layer. Sand and paint as desired. The example used heat to soften the bottom for gap filling as a first step. Here's a link to the article, but it is a preview. I subscribed when I was building my digital carb sync that I posted earlier. http://www.make-digital.com/make/vol34?pg=92#pg92
wrnchjox Posted May 19, 2013 #11 Posted May 19, 2013 harbor freight sells a plastic welder that is pretty simple to use and does work well.
dacheedah Posted May 19, 2013 #12 Posted May 19, 2013 never could get my plactic welder from HF to work very well
charlie h. Posted May 19, 2013 #13 Posted May 19, 2013 I know welding plastic is a hard thing and not very elegant at the best, being a welder for 37 years... so I found the Plastic Welder cement sold at alot of places, and under different brand names to work the best of anything. With a PSI of 3500, it is the strongest thing out there, and you can cut and splice a fairing with minimal fuss. I have a few fairing pieces (literally) from a wrecked Venture that I cut and spliced into another fairing piece, and it is holding up well. I have used this two-part cement to weld back together ABS on a Honda V65 Sabre Fairing, and several Ventures. It is, in my opinion,the best way to repair a crack, or break in ABS. I also use a rotary file to groove the BACK of the repair, and then 80 grit sand the area around the BACK of the repair, and smooth the cement into the groove with a light build in the sanded area, it will never break there again! At $5.99 a tube, it is reasonable and easy to use. Hope this helps!
mbrood Posted May 19, 2013 #14 Posted May 19, 2013 Devco sells a couple sizes of plastic welder... Walmart and quite a few others carry it.
Guest Swifty Posted May 19, 2013 #15 Posted May 19, 2013 The heck with the welding.... Fran's a hoot.... :rotf:
mbrood Posted May 19, 2013 #16 Posted May 19, 2013 I would think your common variable Dremel would work fine for this, they even have various size chuck inserts to handle the job.
tz89 Posted May 20, 2013 Author #17 Posted May 20, 2013 The heck with the welding.... Fran's a hoot.... :rotf: Do some web searching. On the Make magazine forum someone said she "engineers" fancy corsets and other adult paraphernalia. There was a picture.
Yamamike Posted May 23, 2013 #18 Posted May 23, 2013 Dammit...where was this info in the spring of 2012 when I was putting my ol' gal back together?? This would have saved me a lot of time a cursing:bang head: Does look cool...and Fran is a hoot!!
mechanic1 Posted January 27, 2014 #19 Posted January 27, 2014 Believe it or not guys....I use to do a lot of Friction stir welding....but it was on aluminum rocket skins.....ECK knows....we worked at the same place....but we had a lot of clamp pressure and computer controlled parameters like tool speed and travel speed....never tried plastic....be fun to give it a whirl. We didn't actually use a filler material...rather a non consuming weld tool that circulated the metal in our case (mixed it)...nice thing about it was....the aluminum didn't have the common fracture problems with conventional welding processes....IDK how plastic would be to be honest
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