Ryobie Weed Eater

[GolfVenture]

I have a Ryobie weed eater , which I bought it new. It Worked for several years. One year I thought that maybe I could tweek the carb to get some more RPMs. Worked for a while. Then it started to get hard to start and when started it would die after some use. Start it then die. I think messing with the Low & HIi needle did it.

 

Any one know what an approximate setting would be for the Low & Hi screw?

[etcswjoe]

I have a Ryobie weed eater , which I bought it new. It Worked for several years. One year I thought that maybe I could tweek the carb to get some more RPMs. Worked for a while. Then it started to get hard to start and when started it would die after some use. Start it then die. I think messing with the Low & HIi needle did it.

 

Any one know what an approximate setting would be for the Low & Hi screw?

 

 

You need to replace your fuel lines and fuel primer bulb the ethonal gas is killing them and then run Seafoam through it.

[Guest]

I use a capful of seafoam and a few capfuls of StarTron in my weed eater fuel mix, 89 octane too. Keeps things working well.

[Flyinfool]

Or you set it to lean and wore out the piston and cylinder.

It needs to set a little on the rich side.

To rich fouls plugs once in a while, to lean destroys the engine.

But they run so good when lean, till they die.

tuned for max power is to lean and will destroy the engine.

 

I use similar small 2 stroke engines in a high performance application, I lean them for MAX power, but I do so with the understanding that it will need a new piston, ring and cylinder by the end of the day, IF it does not blow up completely before the end of the day.

[mbrood]

Yep, just like with our idle mixture crews and diaphragm needle settings, you want to stay on the slightly rich side of all settings, the minor loss of peak power is well paid for by engine longevity.

 

Make sure there is string in the trim head and it is the proper length. Start with both needles 1 1/2 out from fully closed. Get it started and warmed up. Adjust idle so it will stay running. Try to give it full throttle quickly. If it bogs/dies then open the low end needle 1/8 turn and try again. Once it accel. smoothly the low end is set.

 

Now hold full throttle, slowly open the high end needle until it starts running rough.... almost like it is missing. Now very slowly close the high end needle until it stops doing that. I like to make the high end setting so the engine will once in a while go into that, what I call, 4-cycling mode, and then go back to smooth running. This is one of the hardest parts to get right and can only come with practice and a good ear. At this setting it will as rich as you can get it and still run decent.... if you go leaner you have the possibily of trashing the engine.

[Snaggletooth]

Now if ya want to peak that thing out let me know. Got a few tips from building chainsaws for competitive cutters.

 

It might last 20 seconds or so.... maybe not. You'd have to move fast.

 

I kinda miss blowing stuff up.