How to check valve spring?

[Godlover]

My saga of the stuck engine continues! My wife likes it that I have a project to work on! Anyway - it sticks when the right front piston hits top dead center and you can hear it hit. So, I pulled the valve cover off - and now need to know the next step. Is there an easy way to check for a broken valve spring? Do I need to pull the head? I'm willing to keep tearing into it - I have nothing to lose at this point - but need a road map. Thanks for all the suggestions and help so far.

[dingy]

My saga of the stuck engine continues! My wife likes it that I have a project to work on! Anyway - it sticks when the right front piston hits top dead center and you can hear it hit. So, I pulled the valve cover off - and now need to know the next step. Is there an easy way to check for a broken valve spring? Do I need to pull the head? I'm willing to keep tearing into it - I have nothing to lose at this point - but need a road map. Thanks for all the suggestions and help so far.

 

You possibly have a bent valve(s) that are hitting the piston. There are two valve springs on each valve, one inside the other. With the dual springs, it would take a failure of both springs to cause a valve not to retract when being hand cranked.

 

The bent valve scenario would cause an interference when hand cranking. With the valve covers removed, check and see if any of the valve clearances are way excessive.

 

Most likely cause of a bent valve is a high power application at 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd shift when the higher gear is not fully engaged.

 

I would look at exhaust valves closely, as the are more likely to be bent than intakes. This is do to the intake valve opens just after Top Dead Center (TDC) and closes near Bottom Dead Center (BDC), so when valve is fully open, piston is at other end of stroke. Exhaust is opposite, exhaust valve opens just after (BDC) and closes near (TDC). So the valve is open as the piston approaches it. The valves can 'float'. This occurs when the valve is accelerated at a higher than design RPM and over extends as it opens. The inertial force of the valve overcomes the ability of the spring system to instantaneously retract the valve.

 

Gary

Edited May 1, 2013 by dingy

[Godlover]

Decided this is way beyond my abilities so I found a local mechanic to dig into it. I will be taking it to him next week.

[mlj1111]

Have seen valves actually break off and embedded into piston also, of course this would cause noise every time it hit tdc also.

Over revving kills motors.

 

I am actually getting this from Godlover and am looking forward to seeing how extensive the damage is when I pull the head.

 

Ill keep this forum posted as I go along with pictures from start to finish.

 

Mike

[Godlover]

Have seen valves actually break off and embedded into piston also, of course this would cause noise every time it hit tdc also.

Over revving kills motors.

 

I am actually getting this from Godlover and am looking forward to seeing how extensive the damage is when I pull the head.

 

Ill keep this forum posted as I go along with pictures from start to finish.

 

Mike

 

Welcome to the Forum Mike!

 

I hope it is an easy fix for you and makes a nice ride. I have my eye on a couple of Tour Deluxes and Ventures. Hopefully I will have one in time for the Rally in Galena. Our daughter was appointed this week as the Manager of the Galena and will be moving there soon!

[dacheedah]

give a shout when in the area, I know some people go for root beer on sundays. . .

[Godlover]

give a shout when in the area, I know some people go for root beer on sundays. . .

 

Sounds like a plan

[Godlover]

Forgot, I can't do Sundays - it is the only day of the week I work!

[mlj1111]

Anyone have any good leads for just a front head and valve cover gasket?

Just seeing complete kits and no need of all the extras..

 

Expected to see somewhere in the neighborhood of at most $50 or so, but it looks like they want my arm instead.

Oh Model is XVZ13A.

 

Perhaps this will work ?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Head-Gaskets-Yamaha-Royal-Star-Family-1300-1996-2007-/330909743483?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0bc1f97b&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks!

 

Mike

Edited May 4, 2013 by mlj1111

[mlj1111]

NM that request.

 

Was no indicator that dealerships sold individually, but they do. So.. $29 head gasket, $29 valve cover gasket $12 for exhaust gaskets and I am set for parts that should be in Tuesday.

 

Replacing entire head with one purchased off EBay for $165 shipped.

 

Intake rubber risers are shot/cracked all to hell, but that will have to wait until I get some extra cash to buy them as they are a bit pricey going for around $240 for all 4. I'll hope that they aren't sucking any extra air through all the cracks.

 

I am so grateful for all the input /snicker

 

Mike

Edited May 4, 2013 by mlj1111
added to content

[mlj1111]

All valves were fine on front and rear heads. ( so now I have a front head for sale that I have no need of )

What happened was someone, ( moronically ) , hydrolocked the motor.

 

Rear head gasket had failed. Pulled motor and will put off to the side for winter to repair for a backup. ( I am guessing bent rod on number one piston )

Ordering another so I can be out riding now.

 

I'm not so sure if I will stick around on these forums as a paying supporter or not as I asked a simple question and was not answered.

Ill probably just go back to trolling them for answers when I need them.

 

I only post this so others maybe will learn something.

 

Mike

[Snaggletooth]

Sorry you didn't get your answer. This thread sort of died out when he traded the bike off before doing the repairs.

 

Just to get faster replies it's best to start a new thread with your questions.

 

Only a couple of reasons folks don't reply here. They didn't see the post or they don't have the answer. This thread sort of faded out about the time you posted.

 

And thanks for the info.

 

Hope you stick around as a member. You can see there is a lot of good info here.

 

 

Mike

[Flyinfool]

Sorry you didn't get your answer. This thread sort of died out when he traded the bike off before doing the repairs.

 

Just to get faster replies it's best to start a new thread with your questions.

 

Only a couple of reasons folks don't reply here. They didn't see the post or they don't have the answer. This thread sort of faded out about the time you posted.

 

And thanks for the info.

 

Hope you stick around as a member. You can see there is a lot of good info here.

 

 

Mike

 

:sign yeah that:

 

There is a lot more to this site than just answering questions. There are many good friends to be met.

 

I have followed this thread from the beginning. If I do not have the answer I wnormally do not post, this is not like a paid manufacturers site where it is someones job to answer questions, this is all unpaid volunteers and some times it may take a day or two to get an answer.

 

I went back and reread the whole thread. You only asked one question and then followed it up with a never mind a couple of hours later. All of your posting happened in one day, You have to give us a chance. Some of us still have to work for a living.

[Godlover]

Mike,

 

Sorry to read that you had to go the whole different motor route. I was hoping it would be a less expensive fix for you.

 

Don't give up so easily on this forum. I have had members call me with good advice to help me through. The friendships I have here I value and I keep coming back even when I am not riding a Royal Star. The advice of starting a new thread is right on as people don't have time to follow all the new ones and keep up with the old. Hang around and you will fall in love with this place!

[mlj1111]

Mike,

 

Sorry to read that you had to go the whole different motor route. I was hoping it would be a less expensive fix for you. QUOTE]

 

The biggest issue I have in repairing it now is the fact that a connecting rod ( I am still guessing its that on number one and not a bent crank ), is that the friggen thing costs (if I am lucky), $140 to $170.

Crank cost is anywhere from $500 to $700's. ( if it is messed up )

 

I do not understand where they come up with these prices...

 

Can buy a complete running motor for $500 shipped.. ( granted it has 100k )

 

Would anyone know the interchange on motors between years? 96 xva13a. How new can I go? Any compatibility issues between going from a 96 to newer? Yamaha either does not want to take the time to look it up for me, or are just acting clueless.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

I was having a horrible day yesterday, and have had a migraine for 3 days now, so just ignore my lashouts.

 

Mike

[Godlover]

Mike, we all have horrible days and understand. Mine was Saturday when I let the guy who bought the scooter use my truck to take it home and it must have blown the head gasket but he kept driving and toasted the engine! UGH! It was the day after I used up my reserve funds for the down payment on my 2010 Voyager!

 

Post your question on motor swap in a new thread and you will get the answers you need. To encourage you to stick with this forum I would pay your membership fee for the first year.