Fork Top Cap Removal

[luke000]

I am going to swap out my front springs for the progressives today and I have gotten to the point where I need to remove the aluminum top cap (the one with the big allen key) and I am just wondering if there is a trick because it does not want to budge. I forgot to loosen the stanchion clamp for the upper crown, is that my problem? Also is the Philips screw at the bottom of each fork leg the oil drain plug? I will change the oil while i am in here. Also how much oil with my new springs, same as the 403cc as the manual says?

[luke000]

Nevermind, I got the top cap and all it was was the pinch bolts on the crown were not loose. Info on oil drail and capacity still apriciated. And new question what parts from the old system do I keep or toss in the SHTF parts pile?

[Marcarl]

Oil drain plug is at the bottom,, don't loose the O-ring that's in there. I found it best to leave the caps on until I have the oil drained. Remove the screw, one at a time, fit a catcher in front of the drain hole and then add a bit of air to the forks, just a bit mind you, and you'll find that the oil will come out lickidee split rather than taking a couple of hours. Put the screw back in and then do the other side.

For the progressives, all you need is the pre-load that come with them. You can use them or not, or cut them in half for a softer ride. I don't use them, others use the whole piece. There is also a shoulder washer on top of the spring that would be good to keep there.

[Snaggletooth]

The oil level can be be set anywhere from 5 1/2" from the top of the tubes (with the fork fully collasped) to 7" from the top. It's all safe in that range. The Progressive instruction cover that pretty well. It's a matter of how you want the ride to feel.

 

Make a "T" shaped gauge to set on the tops of the tubes and fill it up the level you chose.

 

The recommended 13.5 oz. fork oil will take you pretty close to the 5 1/2" level with the Progressives.

 

Toss the springs and the long metal spacers. As far as I can remember nobody ever wanted to put them back in.... ever! LOL!

 

Hang on the the shaped washers from the old set up. One on each side to sit inside and on top of the new spring coils for the PVC spacers to sit on.

 

Take care when cutting the PVC spacers so they are not sticking way out of the tops of the tubes. Too long and you will have problems getting the caps back in.

[turtle]

I Have a 1883 VR i bout last year only rode about 2K last year have not had out this year. Very much love the forum but over welmed with info

[mbrood]

As was recommended, it's a lot easier to remove the drain screw at the bottom of each leg while the legs have air pressure, but once the cap is off it's still handy to compress the legs a few times to pump out remaing oil, put the drain screws back and compress the legs and fill each leg with oil up to 5.5 " below the lip (Preferances vary a small bit). Make the change of parts as shown, (being lighter) I didn't use the spacer but your weight will dictate the length you want but, you still want a 1/2" preload as a minimum which I found was the spring and the thin "wear washer and the spacer with the o-ring seal.

 

Hard to see, but the thin spacer with inner flange sticking into the the spring keeps the spring from working on the surface of the spacer... shown: Progressive install on top, factory removal on bottom...

 

(believe me, that 3" original spacer will "haunt" your garage... get rid of it!)

 

http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/springs3.jpg

[luke000]

OK I did all my work today, swapped out the springs and fork oil, re-attached my spedo (fell out of the gauge while on the road), fixed left turn signal idiot light bulb, and somehow inadvertently fixed my cruise control. All in all a productive day. I am very happy with the spring swap so far but have yet to take it on very windy roads of the highway.

[Snaggletooth]

Sounds like ya done yourself proud today. Enjoy your test ride.

 

Now about the new fork brace.........

 

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