Jump to content
IGNORED

What does a fried stator look like?

Guest Swifty

By Guest Swifty
in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

 Share

Recommended Posts

bongobobny

bongobobny

Posted
Posted

Quite possibly, but first either try a different meter or use your meter on your car and see what kind of readings you get. With the bike not running what does it read??

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Guest Swifty

Guest Swifty

Posted
Posted
Quite possibly, but first either try a different meter or use your meter on your car and see what kind of readings you get. With the bike not running what does it read??

Meter is fine. It works on other batteries. The car has more plastic to take off to get at the battery than the VR does...I'm not going to do that!

12.94 volts on the bike is not running.

Another regulator is on the way.

camos

camos

Posted
Posted
Meter is fine. It works on other batteries. The car has more plastic to take off to get at the battery than the VR does...I'm not going to do that!

12.94 volts on the bike is not running.

Another regulator is on the way.

The VM on the dash looks like it is reading about right. The line between 12 and 16 is 14v. I would expect the DVM to be the more accurate one though. Reading 12.94v is high when the system is shut down, it should be no more than about 12.5v at the battery.

 

Anyway, that does make me wonder about the accuracy of the DVM. Might be worth checking it while waiting for the new R/R to arrive.

OB-1

OB-1

Posted
Posted

The true open circuit voltage of a lead-acid battery is directly related to the specific gravity of the electrolyte. The magic number is 0.84. Subtracting 0.84 from the open circuit voltage of a lead-acid cell, not battery, provides the specific gravity. Example: Open circuit voltage: 2.125VDC - 0.84 = 1.285 specific gravity.

 

The nominal full charge specific gravity of a VLA, (Vented Lead-Acid, a.k.a flooded or wet), motorcycle battery is approximately 1.285.

 

The nominal full charge specific gravity of a VRLA, (Valve Regulated Lead-Acid, a.k.a sealed, AGM, Gel-Cell), motorcycle battery is approximately 1.300.

 

The true fully charged specific gravity of a given lead-acid cell is often a little higher than the stated nominal full charge specific gravity.

 

An open circuit voltage of 12.94VDC would equal an average per cell specific gravity of 1.316. This would be the high end of normal for a VRLA battery. Here's the math: 12.94VDC / 6 cells = 2.156 average volts per cell - 0.84 magic number = 1.316 average cell specific gravity.

 

Note: It can take a couple of hours for a motorcycle or car battery to drop to open circuit voltage after charging has been stopped.

Guest Swifty

Guest Swifty

Posted
Posted

Note: It can take a couple of hours for a motorcycle or car battery to drop to open circuit voltage after charging has been stopped.

Keep it simple IF you are talking to me. The only thing my education gave me was the ability to read. So, are you telling me to let the bike run for awhile??? A long discussion with a neighbour biker guy circled around to that possibility, that the charge would settle down after the battery is back up, but I didn't think the battery is low given my readings when the bike is not running, AND I'm so afraid to blow bulbs. A couple of years ago I replaced all the bulbs when I had the dash open for a speedo replacement, and in the 80s after replacing an alternator in my Datsun, I quickly discovered what happened when I should have replaced the regulator too...surprising how many bulbs are in an old Datsun....I don't want to go there again just because I let the bike's system over charge.

OB-1

OB-1

Posted
Posted
...So, are you telling me to let the bike run for awhile???...
No!

A long discussion with a neighbour biker guy circled around to that possibility, that the charge would settle down after the battery is back up, but I didn't think the battery is low given my readings when the bike is not running,...
I agree, your battery appears to be fully charged.

AND I'm so afraid to blow bulbs. A couple of years ago I replaced all the bulbs when I had the dash open for a speedo replacement, and in the 80s after replacing an alternator in my Datsun, I quickly discovered what happened when I should have replaced the regulator too...surprising how many bulbs are in an old Datsun....I don't want to go there again just because I let the bike's system over charge.
I agree. 16-18 volts is too high.

 

Sorry for the confusion...

 

The voltage measurements you stated of approximately 16VDC at idle and 18VDC at 2000RPM are too high.:no-no-no: This is a voltage regulator issue. The high voltage could also be caused by a high resistance connection, (bad connection), between the voltage regulator and frame ground.

 

Open circuit voltage is battery voltage without load or charging current. An open circuit voltage of 12.94VDC is at the high end of normal if you have a VRLA, (Valve Regulated Lead-Acid, a.k.a sealed, AGM, Gel-Cell), battery.

 

It can take a couple of hours for a motorcycle or car battery to drop to open circuit voltage after charging has been stopped. This means that after turning off the bike it may a couple of hours for the voltage of your battery to drop down to true open circuit voltage, especially with the high charge voltage you presently have. In short, don't worry about the open circuit voltage at this time.

 

The stock voltage regulator keeps the stator winding at 100% output current for the present engine speed (RPM). The Mosfet voltage regulator varies the stator winding output current according to the actual load, (number of lights on, etc.). This is great as the stator winding will run cooler and last longer. Why Yamaha didn't use this regulator to begin with is beyond me.

 

I intend to put one of these Mosfet regulators on my bike as I have no desire to change the stator again.:backinmyday:

Snaggletooth

Snaggletooth

Posted
Posted

Swifty, I need to ask you something as I'm trying to follow what's happening with this.

 

I remember your directions for the R/R said to attach the Red and the Black wires together and attach them to the pos post of the battey. We agreed that was incorrect and led you way from that and went with only the (1) Green wire to ground.

 

What did you end up doing the Black wire? Did you leave it loose or ground it?

 

Not that it may make any differnce, but was curious about that Black wire.

 

I'm still learning here myself.

 

Mike

bongobobny

bongobobny

Posted
Posted

Mike I will answer that one for Dave. We discovered that the green wire is, or should be, just a ground for the case of the R/R to shield it from emitting noise into an audio system, etc. I also advised him to not connect the red and black together but rather put the red wire to the battery positive, and the black wire to either the battery minus or to ground.

 

I wanted him to try his meter on a different system as there is the remote possibility it could be out of calibration. I had one that when the battery was low would have some readings out in left field...

Snaggletooth

Snaggletooth

Posted
Posted

Thanks Bob, Yeah, the directions from the R/R were a lil odd.

 

I wasn't clear on what he actually ended up doing with that black one. I was trying figure out if that black wire, unconnected, would cause his problems.

 

I'm still getting my electrical education here to. I hate sparks.

bongobobny

bongobobny

Posted
Posted

I'm not totally sure on that one Mike, one would think that unless the circuit is complete nothing would happen, but there is that possibility I would suppose! I also would assume that Dave would have connected the Black wire to the battery minus or ground, but we both know how to spell ass u me...

Guest Swifty

Guest Swifty

Posted
Posted

Green straight to ground, a bolt threaded to the bike's frame.

Red to positive battery.

Black to negative battery.

Snaggletooth

Snaggletooth

Posted
Posted

Thanks Swifty.

 

Just trying to keep up with what you've done since this R/R install started. All I've been able to do is offer information on I've learned here and pass along what I know from my own experience what works. or should work. At this point it's past anything I can figure out.

 

I wish I could be of more help but there are guys here with a lot more knowledge than I have so I'll leave it in their hands. Hope this works for you soon.

mralex714

mralex714

Posted
Posted
When I replaced my stator the first time a couple of years ago it wasn't necessarily because the stator wasn't working; I was just interesting in preventing a possible failure and having more output. Last year Wizard and Carl et al remember me turning around at Fort Erie when my volt gauge went flat. Now that I've opened it up I see this. Is this black crud on half of the coils mean it is fried?

 

This is the worst one I have ever seen.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-1983-XVZ1200-XVZ-Venture-1200-Alternator-Stator-/360619445147?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53f6980b9b&vxp=mtr

Guest Swifty

Guest Swifty

Posted
Posted

...special thanks to Muffinman...just another very knowledgeable and very generous venturerider.org who came through for me big time for the second time.

(watch for mail, Jeff)

Guest Swifty

Guest Swifty

Posted
Posted
Happy to hear you got that whipped. How did you end up getting it to work?

...Threw out the after-market R/R, took advantage of some southern generosity, installed a good OEM R/R.

BradT

BradT

Posted
Posted (edited)
...Threw out the after-market R/R, took advantage of some southern generosity, installed a good OEM R/R.

 

Good to hear you finally listened to the right advice. Should have called a 865 km day felt real good.

 

I think John attracts roof top lights. LOL

 

Brad

Edited by BradT
Big Lou

Big Lou

Posted
Posted

Read the entire thread, glad you got it fixed, people said statur fries when plastic housing breaks down, can anyone tell if there is something that i can coat it with to make it thicker,,mine came with new stator an recdtifier,yet stator wires all 3 were soldiered. Together allready..3 black wires to 3the white wires,an its mounted on frame rail near swingarm,,when idling my lights flicker cold.hot not so much,,i have a lopy idle,i just had mine apart an for new it has got warm, pplus dude before me cracked stator housing an i had to weld it..did take it all apart,1st..oil leaked.got it fixed would like to cover windings if they will break down

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...