What does a fried stator look like?

[Snaggletooth]

Wiring is quite simple to install the Shindegen. I'm looking for one of my threads on my install.

 

I just built a new harness for the stator, R/R, battery and fuse as a separate system from all other wires.

 

No change to the fuse block at all. Only the two wires + & - leads from the R/R need to connect to the battery posts (with a 30 amp mega fuse in line on the positive lead). And a spice from each stator lead. Pick a wire, any wire. Don't matter which one goes to what one.

 

Mounted the R/R inside the fairing as the Mosfet don't need the air flow like an OEM.

 

NOTE: You can forget about the five wires this way. The two reds, the two blacks and the brown. Cap them off and be done with it. Most aftermarkets R/R's don't use the brown wire anyway. The other 4 wires from the OEM harness are no longer doing anything as the old R/R was the only reason they were there anyway. Dead weight now. Just cap 'em and you're good.

Edited April 26, 2013 by Snaggletooth

[reddevilmedic]

yep, take it out of the system altogether....you will be chasing this wire and that wire for days, I did.

[bongobobny]

Dave, Brown is ignition. Do it like Mike says...

[Snaggletooth]

so how does a stator cooler work?

How much are they?

 

It's a simple device. The bolt that retains the rotor has a hole through it. A shaped wire like heavy piano wire, fits through that hole loosely. The oil passes through the hole along the wire and as the motor spins the oil sprays onto the stator. Primitive, but it helps.

 

The kit, if I remember right has a new bolt, the shaped wire and two thin metal disks that fit into the stator housing to contain the oil spray a bit.

 

I found one years ago on eBay for $15.00. Turned out I didn't need it. The mod had already been done when I opened the cover. No way to know until you look.

[reddevilmedic]

if I remember correctly, there is a punch mark somewhere......once you open it up, you will know for sure

[Guest Swifty]

3. If you bypass this whole system, does that mean I have even MORE terminals that I have to connect directly to the battery terminal? What happens at the battery end? I don't want to work on a new fuse box.

... No answer to that yet?

[Snaggletooth]

Wiring is quite simple to install the Shindegen. I'm looking for one of my threads on my install.

 

I just built a new harness for the stator, R/R, battery and fuse as a separate system from all other wires.

 

No change to the fuse block at all. Only the two wires + & - leads from the R/R need to connect to the battery posts (with a 30 amp mega fuse in line on the positive lead). And a spice from each stator lead. Pick a wire, any wire. Don't matter which one goes to what one.

 

Mounted the R/R inside the fairing as the Mosfet don't need the air flow like an OEM.

 

NOTE: You can forget about the five wires this way. The two reds, the two blacks and the brown. Cap them off and be done with it. Most aftermarkets R/R's don't use the brown wire anyway. The other 4 wires from the OEM harness are no longer doing anything as the old R/R was the only reason they were there anyway. Dead weight now. Just cap 'em and you're good.

 

Just this.

[bongobobny]

Well, if you bypass you will need another ring terminal on the battery connector, and for protection an inline fuse on the red line, but that's pretty much all. You can connect the black directly to ground someplace on the frame...

[camos]

3. If you bypass this whole system, does that mean I have even MORE terminals that I have to connect directly to the battery terminal? What happens at the battery end? I don't want to work on a new fuse box.

An aftermarket AT fuse box of some sort came with my VR but it seems to be integrated with the trailer wiring and I'm not exactly sure what it all does. There was also terminal bloat on the battery so what I chose to do when installing the R/R, at least for the short term, was to add a fused covered terminal strip that I picked up from a marine supply store. It's bolted to the inside top edge of the left fairing pocket. The terminal strip is connected to the accessory circuit so it is only is hot when the ignition is on. I will also be adding a few relays for lights and horns so the terminal strip will keep things tidy.

 

Below the terminal strip can be seen the top edge of the Shindengen R/R that was mounted in the pocket. The cassette deck was removed to do this. As mentioned earlier, I'm moving the R/R to behind the engine but the terminal strip is a simple and tidy way to add a few more power leads.

 

About the comments regarding the need to cool these R/R units:

They apparently do not need to be cooled to handle the output of the OEM VR stators but they will handle higher output if they are cooled. Not sure if the high output stators put the capacity into the range of needing more cooling for the R/R but I figure what the heck cooler is probably better.

[Snaggletooth]

About the comments regarding the need to cool these R/R units:

They apparently do not need to be cooled to handle the output of the OEM VR stators but they will handle higher output if they are cooled. Not sure if the high output stators put the capacity into the range of needing more cooling for the R/R but I figure what the heck cooler is probably better.

 

Nope. I've had the Buckeye Performance high output stator on the bike for several years now and there is no heat issue at all with that stator using the Shindengen R/R inside the fairing no matter what load I put on the system. The Mosfet type R/R does not build the kind of heat an OEM R/R does.

[Guest Swifty]

Thanks for all your help...now you know how I feel dealing with some of the dimwits I encounter every day.

Another question to make sure I got it correct...

Am I right in noticing that this after market R/R does NOT have to be bolted to the frame for a ground source? Can you just hang it anywhere?

[Dano]

Yep, you can even hang it off the trunk if you want too!

[Snaggletooth]

Hey Dave,

 

Should not be a problem with the Shindengen. Mine is mounted on the plastic inner fairing. I do have a ground wire to the frame but I installed it there more as retainer for some harness work rather than as a needed ground.

 

When I have the fairing off to work on the bike I just hang the R/R from the frame by the wires and I get no change in the readings.

 

You should be fine.

 

The only ground really required is the - lead from the R/R to either the - battery post or the frame. Your choice. I like thebattery connection myself. I have the digital voltmeter right off the battey also so there is no doubt about the charging system.

 

I understand your concerns. After all the frustrations of dealing with a burned out OEM stator, a failed OEM R/R, the distruction of an aftermarket R/R (totally my fault) and all the wire chasing I did in that process I was way overthinking the upgrade to the Shindengen.

 

When I sat down and looked at all the potental problems i could bypass with a simple separate harness it just didn't make sense to patch it into the existiing wiring.

 

Not one regret since and not one problem with it.

Edited April 27, 2013 by Snaggletooth

[camos]

Nope. I've had the Buckeye Performance high output stator on the bike for several years now and there is no heat issue at all with that stator using the Shindengen R/R inside the fairing no matter what load I put on the system. The Mosfet type R/R does not build the kind of heat an OEM R/R does.

Not sure what you are disagreeing with but according to the Shindengen site the FH020AA R/R has an output of 30 amps with no cooling and with 1m/s cooling it will do 50 amps. I don't know if the extra capacity is necessary but what I was saying is cooling does make a difference.

[Guest Swifty]

I swear if I was in charge of electricity and installation instructions heaven will have come down already.....so now this...

I found my RM stator, would like to install this one.

Pics of instructions and the unit are below.

So what the heck...

1. It says, "attach the 3 yellow wires, no sequence"...I have no problem with that.

2. It says, "attach red wire to black wire and then attach to battery positive." That has me totally confused. Is the red and black wire they're referring to the red and black wire from the unit??? Attach them to each other??? gawd, and then run them to the battery positive???

3. It says, "attach 2 green wires to battery negative or to ground"...well what the (*&%*&^, there is ONLY ONE green wire!! What gives?

 

Any help still coming my way is appreciated.

[bongobobny]

Hey, don't have a cow Swifty!!

 

OK Red is always Positive for Batteries, and Black is always negative. No, do NOT connect them together!!

 

Yes, connect the green to ground, it is the outside case which for radio interference they want physically connected to ground. It's an imperfect world we live in, so just connect the only green wire you have and then connect the pretend green wire as well...

[Snaggletooth]

Don't blame you on that one.

 

I've seen some of these with the color coding so far out of wack it makes no sense to what we would think would be right or even come close to the bikes wiring.

 

Red and Black are usually hot and ground. Not a good practice to tie them together. Green is usually a ground. So a bit of a conflict in thinking there.

 

Wish I could answer this one for ya. Hopefully someone has dealt with the same unit and has it figured out.

 

And good luck finding that other green lead.

[Guest Swifty]

Hey, don't have a cow Swifty!!

 

OK Red is always Positive for Batteries, and Black is always negative. No, do NOT connect them together!!

 

Yes, connect the green to ground, it is the outside case which for radio interference they want physically connected to ground. It's an imperfect world we live in, so just connect the only green wire you have and then connect the pretend green wire as well...

Thanks for your help, Buddy, BUT you STILL don't make complete sense...to me.

Please just SAY what connects to what.

Please just SPELL it out.

 

From your message I understand this:

I will connect the green wire to ground.

 

From your message I do NOT understand where the red and black goes BECAUSE YOU DID NOT SAY WHAT TO CONNECT IT TO!

Can I assume correctly that you want me to connect the red wire to the positive terminal of the battery?

Can I assume correctly that you want me to connect the black wire to the negative terminal of the battery?

 

I need it said simply and clearly and concisely...ie. just say connect this to that.

The cow is about to be born, but I still appreciate any and all help.

[bongobobny]

Hehehehehehehe!!

 

Yes, the red wire goes to the Battery +

The black goes to either the battery -, or to ground, your choice...

[camos]

Hehehehehehehe!!

 

Yes, the red wire goes to the Battery +

The black goes to either the battery -, or to ground, your choice...

Sure that will work but "Best Practice" is to connect red directly to battery + through a fuse and black directly to the battery - and connect the green to the frame. The reason for doing this is both red and black will have a guaranteed connection to the battery which is necessary for the R/R to monitor the voltage output and feed the battery from the stator output. Connecting the black to the frame ground will most likely work BUT the connection could be less than adequate due to a possibly torturous route through dis-similar metals that can get easily corroded or through possibly painted joints that are bolted. Think about the well known issues regarding the negative wire that runs from the battery to the starter which often needs attention.

 

more

[mralex714]

I swear if I was in charge of electricity and installation instructions heaven will have come down already.....so now this...

I found my RM stator, would like to install this one.

Pics of instructions and the unit are below.

So what the heck...

1. It says, "attach the 3 yellow wires, no sequence"...I have no problem with that.

2. It says, "attach red wire to black wire and then attach to battery positive." That has me totally confused. Is the red and black wire they're referring to the red and black wire from the unit??? Attach them to each other??? gawd, and then run them to the battery positive???

3. It says, "attach 2 green wires to battery negative or to ground"...well what the (*&%*&^, there is ONLY ONE green wire!! What gives?

 

Any help still coming my way is appreciated.

 

Hey Swifty,

Did you ever get your RM stator regulator hooked up? I was curious because I had tried 2 different one, one with with just wires and another with a connector and both blew the main fuse on 2 bikes. BTW refunds were given no questions asked.

[Guest Swifty]

Stator is hooked up, with new regulator.

Pumping out 16 volts at idle.

Is that a bad thing?

Does it mean the RM rectifier/regulator is not good?

Does it mean my hook up went wrong.

Does it mean that I just have great output on the stator?

please, please, please....

[muffinman]

Thats alot high it should be 13.2 to 14.4 on the output what is it showing with it fully loaded high beams driving lights radios ect on full?

Whats it showing if you put the meter on the 20V setting where you should be testing it at?

 

 

 

Jeff

[Snaggletooth]

16 is not good at idle. Not good and high revs either!!

 

Don't see how the hook up could go wrong but the R/R is doing something wrong.

 

The most I see on mine is 14.5 at revs on mine. I'd be concerned about the battry at 16.

[Guest Swifty]

Thats alot high it should be 13.2 to 14.4 on the output what is it showing with it fully loaded high beams driving lights radios ect on full?

Whats it showing if you put the meter on the 20V setting where you should be testing it at?

 

Jeff

same reading.

It can get up to 18 volts at 2,000 rpms.

I shut it down right away.

This was a new regulator but I bought it years ago when I bought the stator that fried.

Does it mean rounding up a new regulator?