Cruise Control Delay?

[OutKast]

Ok, after lurking here for two months, have not found anything on my problem. Scenario - Cuising at 60 on open highway. Left hand clicks the dash switch to ON. The "ON" and "SET" indicators both come on. Right thumb push and release the "set/decel" button. "SET" indicator goes off. I release the throttle. Then the weird thing. The bike slows down 5-6 mph, then accelerates back up to the set speed. Then all is good again.

 

This tends to upset those following me. Anybody else had this? Please confirm this is not normal before I scream like a little girl when the dealer says "that is normal on that madel".

 

sorry, I am a nosmiley

[Freebird]

A little trick that many of us learned and use. When you press the set button, immediately toggle and hit the accel button. This will eliminate the problem.

[flb_78]

A little trick that many of us learned and use. When you press the set button, immediately toggle and hit the accel button. This will eliminate the problem.

 

+1

[hig4s]

I just hold the throttle for a sec after I hit the set button.

[BuddyRich]

I just hit the accel after the set as Don said, but I usually click it twice real quick and it holds right now.

[dynodon]

EVery cruise control I have had (all but my Royale on cars) has a similar delay. Some are a bit quicker, but on all of them, I just hold my speed manually till I feel the throttle taken from me.

 

As mentioned, you can hit the accel feature and quicken things up a bit.

 

The set light will come back on when the cruise settles to the pre-set speed.

[nkbjones]

A little trick that many of us learned and use. When you press the set button, immediately toggle and hit the accel button. This will eliminate the problem.

 

[Guest KitCarson]

Another thing to make the use of the cruise control easier if in a group ride is to lightly tap the resume/acc to speed up or the dec/set to slow down. I never could get my Venture to hold a steady speed......in a group ride.....do not think it is the bike....but several may be on an RSTD......another on one with a taller or shorter windshield.......might be a headwind.......so I never could get the thing to stay steady.....so after setting the cruise about 25 times one time on the way back from the beach one day.....I found a light tap up or down....will keep you steady and help keep you properly spaced .

[LSupina]

I just put Baron risers on my bike (2007 Liquid Silver) and had to re-route the throttle cables, after getting my bike where the throttle didn't bind, my sluggish and balking cruise control became much worse. I have been doin' the click up on accel button, holding the throttle till I felt the cruise control come on and all that jazz. But all of a sudden my cruise was way worse than before so back into the throttle switch box I went figuring I messed up some wiring with all the disassembly / re-assembly. Once the case was cracked open again I found all the wiring intact so I started removing switches one by one to hopefully find the issue.

 

Note: Do not disassemble the start button unless you are having an issue with it, it is a bear requiring much patience to re-assemble without smashing the spring which will gleefully throw itself on the garage floor!

 

I removed the cruise control cancel button and tried to operate it. It stuck half-way. I looked closer and the plastic plunger going into the switch had some burrs on it. I trimmed the burrs with a knife but the switch still only operated about half of the time. Well, if it's supposed to move and it doesn't use WD-40. I manually ran the switch while my son sprayed WD-40 into the plunger opening and 5-6 more tries later the switch flipped into position with a re-assurring click.

 

We re-assembled the switch box and I now have a very crisp cruise control that always engages, doesn't speed-wander and has made me stop thinking about buying a Vista Cruise. It still takes a moment for it to engage, but it very quickly recovers and sets at the speed selected. It really made a huge difference in my cruise control. I think the cancel switch hanging in the middle confuses the snot out of the control unit.

 

There is one screw holding the cancel switch in place and with a pair of needle nose pliers you can wiggle it out without removing the other switches. I highly recommend you leave the other switches in place. There are no hidden surprises to fall on the floor if you only remove this switch. The same cannot be said about some of the others!

[wizard]

Great post. There are lubricants that are made for electric switches that are plastic safe, and made for applications such as this. WD-40 is not a good lubricant and will not last for long. CRC makes a good product, so does Chemtronics, a bit more expensive. Just make sure its plastic safe.

[OutKast]

Thanks LSupina! Will check that out as soon as I get a chance.

 

I have 95, 99 & 03 GM trucks that the cruise sets RIGHT NOW. As soon as I release the set button, I can feel the throttle lock.

 

Waiting 1001, 1002... ...1006 before the throttle locks is just WRROOONNG!

[Rick Butler]

You know guys,

 

No one has mentioned taking out the slack in the cable from the cruise control vacuum actuator. If you set the electronic part of the cruise control, it actuates the vacuum actuator. If there is any slack in the cable from here to the cable junction, guess what happens? Yeah, the return spring pulls back until it hits the stop and you see a decrease in speed. By bumping the Accell button a couple of times, it takes that slack out and holds the speed you set it at on the speedometer. If you take the left lower off you will see this actuator and the cable coming out. There is an adjustment nut that you can tighten and lock to take any slack out. The freeplay for this adjustment is 1-2mm.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

[LSupina]

Rick, Wizzard, good info!

Next time I'm doin' a maintenance day I'm goin' to re-lube the switch with some CCR and check adjustment on the cable, bet the cruise works like a champ after that!

[Guest tesnevo]

I just put Baron risers on my bike (2007 Liquid Silver) and had to re-route the throttle cables, after getting my bike where the throttle didn't bind, my sluggish and balking cruise control became much worse. I have been doin' the click up on accel button, holding the throttle till I felt the cruise control come on and all that jazz. But all of a sudden my cruise was way worse than before so back into the throttle switch box I went figuring I messed up some wiring with all the disassembly / re-assembly. Once the case was cracked open again I found all the wiring intact so I started removing switches one by one to hopefully find the issue.

 

Note: Do not disassemble the start button unless you are having an issue with it, it is a bear requiring much patience to re-assemble without smashing the spring which will gleefully throw itself on the garage floor!

 

I removed the cruise control cancel button and tried to operate it. It stuck half-way. I looked closer and the plastic plunger going into the switch had some burrs on it. I trimmed the burrs with a knife but the switch still only operated about half of the time. Well, if it's supposed to move and it doesn't use WD-40. I manually ran the switch while my son sprayed WD-40 into the plunger opening and 5-6 more tries later the switch flipped into position with a re-assurring click.

 

We re-assembled the switch box and I now have a very crisp cruise control that always engages, doesn't speed-wander and has made me stop thinking about buying a Vista Cruise. It still takes a moment for it to engage, but it very quickly recovers and sets at the speed selected. It really made a huge difference in my cruise control. I think the cancel switch hanging in the middle confuses the snot out of the control unit.

 

There is one screw holding the cancel switch in place and with a pair of needle nose pliers you can wiggle it out without removing the other switches. I highly recommend you leave the other switches in place. There are no hidden surprises to fall on the floor if you only remove this switch. The same cannot be said about some of the others!

 

 

Could you elaborate on how you re-routed the throttle cables to allow more slack please. I have the barons risers on mine and would like to acheive some more slack on my '07. Thanks.

[WilCruise]

I just hit the accel after the set as Don said, but I usually click it twice real quick and it holds right now.

I do 2 too

[LSupina]

I ended up splitting the fairing so I could see what was going on, but it only provided some visual access. My throttle cables were orginally running between the right fork tube and the fairing, so when I turned to the right the cables were being pinched over the black fairing frame member that runs about 1/2 inch or so in front of the tube. If you reach up and feel around the fork tube you'll be able to locate this framework for the fairing. Turn your forks to the right and peer in there with a light and you'll see the throttle cables bending over this framework. I disconnected the throttle cables and tried several routes but the best turned out to be straight up through the triple tree. I tried to attach a couple of photos, we'll see what happens. If they make the transfer the throttle cales are in the new route which provides lots of room for everything to work well and one photo shows my big fat finger pointing to where the cables orginally ran.

 

They other photo is just showing off the family's stable of rides:cool10:

[Guest tesnevo]

So if I have this correct, the original route is on the out side right of the front fork? You re-routed them throught the middle of the triple tree, correct? I appreciate the info. I hate they bind on a right full turn.

[LSupina]

You've got the idea. At first I thought I could just work the cables around and over the right front fork tube but they were too entangled with everything else goin' on in there. Once I disconnected the throttle cable and worked them back into the triple tree I was able to free some tangles and run them straight up.