deepforkriver Posted April 17, 2013 #1 Posted April 17, 2013 Ok, so maybe not literally. I know I have found at least 12 previous post on this topic, however, they are a little dated and didnt know if there is a new fix on the market that someone has used successfully and maybe they can help me out. I knew this problem existed prior to purchase just been puttin it off way too long. I have posted pic's of the problem. I am also in the process of making a bottom plate that bolts to existing brackets on the trunk bottom and is basically a pan supporting the latch end and hinge end (front) and uses bottom bolts. Would love to fix it another way. What's your suggestion? (No, I will not use a First Gen trunk) And pinwall and fleabay are just too expensive, shipping, paint, etc. Ride Safe, James
Peder_y2k Posted April 17, 2013 #2 Posted April 17, 2013 Well for what it is worth, the trunk is made from ABS, and you can look up repairs for that material. Same stuff in black plastic pipe. Some have used the ABS cement to make pieces. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88
plumberman Posted April 17, 2013 #3 Posted April 17, 2013 When i fixed my front fairing witch is abs i got some fiberglass screening and applyed it with abs cement . Bondo over and painted . Really strong
SilvrT Posted April 17, 2013 #4 Posted April 17, 2013 ABS 2-part epoxy is the ticket. Where those cracks are, grind them out (open them up) with a dremel tool (if you got one) and then fill them in with the ABS epoxy. The hole can be repaired as plumberman says but use the epoxy. There's another product called Plastex that would be good for that as well.
dave_wells Posted April 17, 2013 #5 Posted April 17, 2013 Fixed mine last week it was not as bad but getting there its been only 250 miles so far so good I used epoxy and a metal mesh drywall patch as reinforcement on the edges cut in strips and set in the epoxy clean it first I mad a rectangle plate and used both mounting holes at the rear of the trunk with a piece of sheet metal under the whole base and adhered with silicone then just a few rivets drill the cracks at the ends stops them from spreading then about every inch and get the epoxy inside the cracks let it dry over night Then work on the big stuff when everything is somewhat held together I will take a couple of pictures and post them when I am home this evening You can check eBay I have seen a few trunks for around 400.00
Marcarl Posted April 17, 2013 #6 Posted April 17, 2013 I would do as described, clean away any paint involved, open up the cracks and then use Plastifix. Much cheaper than Plastex and looks to be the same stuff. http://www.urethanesupply.com/ I picked up a profession kit at AircraftSpruce: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/01-00545-45.php?clickkey=8215
SilvrT Posted April 17, 2013 #7 Posted April 17, 2013 This is the epoxy I've used many times. Does a great job and can be had just about anywhere. Just make sure it has ABS on the package. http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/adhesives-sealants/epoxies/permatex--permapoxy--5-minute-plastic-weld-detail
wideopenrod Posted April 17, 2013 #8 Posted April 17, 2013 Hey James, I believe I have some of that Plastex stuff. I used it on a hot tub to deal cracks. Its a liquid and powder you mix together. You can even mix in acrylic paint to get the desired color you need. Let me know if you interested in trying it and I can get it to you.. I can also school you on plastic welding as well...
deepforkriver Posted April 17, 2013 Author #9 Posted April 17, 2013 Hey James, I believe I have some of that Plastex stuff. I used it on a hot tub to deal cracks. Its a liquid and powder you mix together. You can even mix in acrylic paint to get the desired color you need. Let me know if you interested in trying it and I can get it to you.. I can also school you on plastic welding as well... Ok so now my focus has changed. About this HOT TUB...... I am pretty sure we could have used that after the meet and eat a couple weeks ago?????? :buttkick: And I thought we were friends...
wideopenrod Posted April 17, 2013 #10 Posted April 17, 2013 Yeah, that was at the old house... Wish we had a hot tub now... You buy one and have it installed at my house, and we could let ya'll come use it.. See, win-win! Let me know if you wanna try the plastex stuff.. Rod
BoomerCPO Posted April 17, 2013 #11 Posted April 17, 2013 When ya get ready to re-install the trunk make sure you use the Ny-loc nuts....the ones that have a plastic insert inside the nut....those nuts will never back off due to the vibration of the bike. Boomer....who sez even the pygmies can't mess with them Ny-loc nuts.
dynodon Posted April 17, 2013 #12 Posted April 17, 2013 I will second (or is it third?) Plastifix. All of the Venture trunks will eventually crack like this so everyone get ready to work on them. When I read about the Plastifix, I thought it would work, but would be a LOT of work. I removed the trunk, used a dremel to open up the inside of the cracks in the trunk, that took maybe 10 minutes. My trunk had almost become three distinct pieces so there were a LOT of cracks. then I used the Plastifix as recommended, little beads of the stuff, add a little more solvent and move on to another bead. I thought it would take days to complete but about an hour or two later, it was done! Let it sit overnight, turned it over, and did the outside. On my black cherry trunk, the black Plastifix was almost invisible, and all the outside cracks were well under the trunk and outside the line of sight. The outside went just like the inside. I used no extra support like wire or fiberglass, just the Plastifix. I sold the bike last year, but for over a year of hard use, the trunk was sold as new, the cracks showed no sign of coming back. This stuff works, and isn't that expensive. And it is NOT as hard to use or time consuming as it seems. Actually a little fun chasing those little beads of stuff with the point of the needle!
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