Midrsv Posted April 16, 2013 #1 Posted April 16, 2013 My father in law recently gave me his 30 year old Shopsmith. You know, the multi tool machine they used to demo in the malls. It seems to be in pretty good shape and hasn't been used much over the last 10 years or so. Tonight I tried my had at turning a bowl. I hadn't done any wood turning since high school shop class. I got it roughed out and started sanding it. There is a section on the inside and out that I can not get to smooth out. I've tried a rasp, coarse sandpaper, one of those 3M foam sanding blocks, medium grit paper and there is always a rough section. I'm beginning to think the shaft has a bit of wobble to it that is preventing a good sand job. Any ideas? Attached is a photo of the bowl in progress. Dennis
kevin-vic-b.c. Posted April 16, 2013 #2 Posted April 16, 2013 some time the grain of the wood is not in the same flow as the rest of the wood. What often has to be done is a coat of sealer put on it then the wood will sand smooth.... this advise from a plumber who last took wood working in high school well before a Venture existed.
juggler Posted April 16, 2013 #3 Posted April 16, 2013 I grew up with one of those and it in storage. My Dad worked for Shop Smith for a short while. Lay a tool across the bowl as its spinning. If the tool bounces it's either out of round or you do have a wobble. You can do the same on the inside with the rounded part of a caliper. Now if this power head has a wobble you can ship it to Shop Smith and they will refurbish it for a fee. These are great machines!
mbrood Posted April 16, 2013 #4 Posted April 16, 2013 I totally agree with the sealer solution, it gives a foundation for the wood and adds surface strength to sand.
M61A1MECH Posted April 16, 2013 #5 Posted April 16, 2013 I do not have a SHOPSMITH, but do have a wood lathe and have done a bit of turning over the past few years, what you have is the grain essentially reversing on one side of the part as it is turned and you are getting tear out instead of cutting the wood. Sometimes a good sharpening of the cutting tool and a fairly deep cut will take care of it, but I have to admit I still struggle with it happening more often that I like. As far as the wobble, the wood will sometimes push away from the tool and create an out of round condition. For finishing my pieces I too resort to getting my work as smooth as I can then and then resorting to using a sanding sealer after I have applied the stain, sand down the sealed part until smooth, reapply stain to smooth out the look and then I apply a friction polish until I have a glass like finish. Some woods just turn better that others , some just refuse to be turned.
Midrsv Posted April 16, 2013 Author #6 Posted April 16, 2013 Thanks for the replies. I never thought that it could be a wood issue. I'll try some sealer. Dennis
CaptainJoe Posted April 16, 2013 #7 Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) Sometimes you can apply a little water and it will raise the fibers. When dry it will make it easier to sand. You never said what type of wood you was working with. The harder the wood like maple and walnut the easier it is to finish... Went back and looked at pic... that looks like cedar? Edited April 16, 2013 by CaptainJoe
Trader Posted April 16, 2013 #9 Posted April 16, 2013 I've had a shopsmith for about 30 years. I also got the bandsaw and 4" jointer attachments It's a great machine and my only complaints are: 1) there is not enough table area (later models had more....but I could buy the larger tables) 2) the headstock revs much too slowly for the router option to be used....it feels like it's taking chunks out of the material
dacheedah Posted April 16, 2013 #10 Posted April 16, 2013 I just think it's defective but I am willing to help you part with it, only to save you frustration.. .
Midrsv Posted April 16, 2013 Author #11 Posted April 16, 2013 I went down and sanded on the bowl some more. I varied the speed and the grit of the sandpaper. I believe it is a grain issue. I've got it about 98% right. I'm done with the sanding. Now I'm going to but a few coats of oil on it, cut it off and finish the bottom a bit and call it good. I may be more careful with the wood I pick next time. Also, how can a quart size bowl generate 20 gallons of chips and shavings? Dennis
T.J. Posted April 16, 2013 #12 Posted April 16, 2013 Hello Dennis, Another trick to getting a smooth finish is to take the shavings from the bowl that came off while you were turning it down. Hold the shavings in the plam of your hands and run the lathe at a pretty fast RPM and press the shavings againts the part. This is called burnishing. You will love the finish it gives. Good luck and have fun with the new tool.
luke000 Posted April 16, 2013 #13 Posted April 16, 2013 Well I am a big wood turner and I can tell you like others have said its your wood and not the shops smith. To get a good finish you must use the proper tools for the type of grain you are working, I suggest a finish scraper and a bowl gouge. Also I like to work the wood green right after I cut down the tree. Make sure the blank is orented properly because end grain is a PITA to make a bowl out of. And sand sand sand and then sand again. For anyone interested here is some of my older stuff on another motorcycle forum I posted from back when I was building my CB550. here.
luke000 Posted April 16, 2013 #14 Posted April 16, 2013 I doubt you have a bent shaft, The end grain is always harder to sand and cut. Like I said SAND SAND SAND SAND and when your done SAND AGAIN
Midrsv Posted April 16, 2013 Author #15 Posted April 16, 2013 Well I am a big wood turner and I can tell you like others have said its your wood and not the shops smith. To get a good finish you must use the proper tools for the type of grain you are working, I suggest a finish scraper and a bowl gouge. Also I like to work the wood green right after I cut down the tree. Make sure the blank is orented properly because end grain is a PITA to make a bowl out of. And sand sand sand and then sand again. For anyone interested here is some of my older stuff on another motorcycle forum I posted from back when I was building my CB550. here. Dang Luke, I thought I was doing pretty good. Your stuff makes my little bowl look like a wheel chock! Thanks for sharing. I definitely need some new turning tools. I'm just using the 30 year old tools my father-in-law had. Dennis
Trader Posted April 16, 2013 #16 Posted April 16, 2013 Those 30 year old tools may be of much higher quality steel than newer ones. If they are 30 year old "Shopsmith" lathe chisels...they are a pretty good quality tool. They may need sharpening but investigate before you replace them.
luke000 Posted April 16, 2013 #17 Posted April 16, 2013 Dang Luke, I thought I was doing pretty good. Your stuff makes my little bowl look like a wheel chock! Thanks for sharing. I definitely need some new turning tools. I'm just using the 30 year old tools my father-in-law had. Dennis Thank you and that is over a year old so there is a lot of new and better stuff. And I agree, those 30 year old tools are probably very good and just need a good sharpening. The old tools are the best, my current lathe is a 1953 Delta rockwell 613. By far my favorite I have used so far. A word of warning, woodturning is very addictive and expensive. I am happy to share any tricks or give advice if anyone wants, or at least as much as a 19 year old can. A good way to keep cost down and get some kick a$$ wood is to watch for logs cut down by landscaping company's.
BadBob Posted April 17, 2013 #18 Posted April 17, 2013 You can get Shopsmith specific information here: http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/ There are some very knowledgeable people over there that are more than willing to help.
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