Clutch Slave mounting issues ?!?!

[tdodd94]

Well did a complete over haul of both the slave and master cylinders on my bike. Everything went well after a few hiccups, and I've been riding for three weeks with no issues. Well on the way to school this morning everything went south quickly. Pulling off the freeway I noticed that I had lost all pressure in my clutch. I figured I blew the seal on the slave, but I noticed that no fluid was leaking. After I made it to school with no clutch I did some investigating and saw that the slave completely broke free from the engine. It was no longer mounted. Everything works OK, but the bolts mounting it must have either snapped or backed out? I'm fearing the first of the two. I'm wondering if anyone has had this issue before? If so, how would you guys recommend getting them out? Wasn't easy riding home without it!

[Peder_y2k]

Next time, use a torque wrench on the bolts. If the bolts are snapped off, BIG PIA. Will need to use a screw extractor if they are broken off flush, and that requires drilling a hole. Maybe can use a reverse drill bit and they might come out. To gain access for the work, you might need to remove the engine from the frame. Right now, your bike value just decreased $2000. The repair work is very risky for damaging the crankcase. If you are not comfy doing precision work, take it to a pro. Best start the process of getting a bank loan as this is expensive.

Let's hope the bolts simply backed out..........

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'83,88

[bongobobny]

Yes, did you also use blue loctite when retorqueing the bolts? Those bolts are exposed to a lot of vibration.

[Marcarl]

Don't scare yourself half to death,,, it's not like it hasn't happened before and had to be dealt with. First things first, take off the middle gear cover and discover what happened, then post back for more info.

[Snaggletooth]

I just went through the clutch slave in mine. Took a couple of days to get out the old bolts, but someone had used red LocTite the last time around.

 

I'm hoping for you that the bolts you used just backed out. if you didn't used any thread bonding (BLUE) it's possible.

 

I can't imagine the slave would create enough pressure to snap the bolts off. Maybe enough to wiggle them loose, but not break 'em.

 

Keep us posted on what you find. And good luck.

 

Mike

[tdodd94]

Well after further investigation I found that the top of my slave had actually cracked off. this seems unusual. I must have torqued those screws way too much. Learned my lesson. I ordered a spare slave today. The bolts were completely in tact, but the slave had just stress cracked away from the mounting holes. I will attach a picture tomorrow, it's interesting to see.

[Peder_y2k]

Lucky save!! Be sure to use a torque wrench on assembly.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'83,88

[Snaggletooth]

Well after further investigation I found that the top of my slave had actually cracked off. this seems unusual. I must have torqued those screws way too much. Learned my lesson. I ordered a spare slave today. The bolts were completely in tact, but the slave had just stress cracked away from the mounting holes. I will attach a picture tomorrow, it's interesting to see.

 

Well, ya got to look at it from the bright side. The broken one will be a whole lot easier to remove than a whole one. And you already know how to wiggle the new one in.

 

You're actually ahead of the game.

[bongobobny]

Yes, in the long run it is better, and really not any more expensive, to replace the slave with a new one. Rebuilds usually don't last as long...

[dvuch1]

I just receive my SS brake /clutch lines and clutch slave cylinder from Ric at Buckeye Performance, I'd like to do the install myself. Do I need to remove the fairings in order to thread the brake/clutch lines or can I tie a string to the old ones and pull them through and tie the new ones on the string and thread them that way? Also, I ordered the slave and it looks reasonable enough but this stress fracture story has me a bit bummed. What would be a reasonable cost to have these installed at a shop? Thanks Dave

[Snaggletooth]

OH! Hey Dave!! Hello neighbor!!

 

Well just down the road a bit. First of all what bike you have? (ah never mind. '86 right)

 

If your handy with tools there isn't anything you can't do yourself. If you're on a 1st gen Ican do a bit to help you along. Removing the fairing will help a bunch on installing the brake lines. The fairing isn't all that bad once you know where to start.

 

Would I want to pay a shop to do any of this.... with current shop rates? Oh NOOO!

 

Mike

[dingy]

I think you have something else going on besides over torqued connectors.

 

I have some extra (junk) parts lying around, so I took a few pictures of what I am seeing.

 

1st picture is looking across the slave cylinder & connecting points. It's not obvious in the picture, but the two connecting points protrude farther than the main body of the cylinder bore.

 

2nd picture is showing the connecting boss on the lower half of the block. There is a slightly raised face around the tapped hole for the lower connecting point, shown very center of picture. Half circle cut thru block above that and slightly right is the lower half of bore that clutch rod seal sets in. Around the seal bore, there is accumulated grime that build up over the years. This tells me that the face of the clutch slave was not pressed up tightly against block in this area.

 

3rd picture is where I had the slave positioned up against the block half.

 

Last picture is of the upper connecting point on a different block. It appears to be machined flush with the block, hard to tell in picture though.

 

What this suggests is that the two connecting points on the slave are designed to mate directly against the block with no air gap at connecting point interface. This then means that you could have torqued the connecting screws until it stripped the threads without cracking the connecting arms off, under normal circumstances.

 

What may have allowed this to happen is that a pieces of debris was caught between the clutch slave body and the block, thus not allowing the slave to seat the way it was intended. With this possible offset, then the screw could snap the arm off.

 

Just a few random thoughts. May have no basis in reality.

 

Gary

Edited April 18, 2013 by dingy
slave master thing messed up, corrected

[tdodd94]

Well it's fixed. I also mounted it with correct specs. Took a lengthy test ride and everything checked out OK. After all the money I've spent preparing this bike for the summer (tires, exhaust parts, radiator fixes etc.) I can't afford to be angry or want to sell it, but unfortunately last evening after test riding for a bit my second gear started to jump out a little. I guess that's the icing on the proverbial cake. My bike is a late model 83, one of the dark blues titled as an 84. I was hoping it would be excluded in the issue, but I guess not.

[dvuch1]

Ok guys any tricks here? I'm in the middle of getting it out but what a ##$$%%! How the heck am I going to get the new one in???

[Snaggletooth]

Once you get the old one out most the wiring should be pretty well out of the way. I pulled the heavier harness up above the middle gear housing and had to bend that metal harness clip on the stator side out and down to get room to remove the old slave. It's a bit of a puzzle but when you hit it it does slide right in and out, with a couple of turns and twists. Should have no need to force it. It does fit. Really!

 

Wiring was the biggest problem getting it out of the way.

[robclark63]

When I did mine it was a lot easier to get it in than out...Sounds weird but i guess it is like coming home from some place, it seems quicker some times:)

[Marcarl]

Got to watch which side of your mouth your tongue is hanging out, if it doesn't work from the right side, stand up, turn around, hang your tongue out the other side, and in it goes.

[KIC]

Mine went in much easier than coming out. Move the wires and you will find the right little angle. Good luck.

[Condor]

The trick is to rotate the slave so the dog ear will clear over the shift rod when pulling the slave out. It actually will be upside down when removing. Same thing going back in. Insert the slave up side down and then rotate making sure the ear clears over the rod. Took a while to figure this one out. That's why I'm so follically challenged.