Build in USB powered receptacle

[First_N_Last]

I'm finishing up all the add-ons for my RSV-Hannigan & have gotten to the really nice to have add-ons.

I have a pocket in my dash made by removing the luxurious stock cassette player.

In the pocket, my MP3Venture device is mounted & my AUX stereo jack is there also.

 

I'm placing a RAM Mount X cell phone mount & have realized (by experience) that plugging a cigarette jack car power adapter for USB in, just doesn't stay in for long trips, so...

 

my plan is to install a DC to DC converter device which will convert bike 12V to a USB receptacle. The use usb cable to phone (usb connector in cassette pocket)

 

It seems that there are nice inexpensive high efficiency integrated converter units for under $25 which can provide up to 3amps of 5V.

That should do it for my USB power needs.

 

Has anyone done this & willing to share their experiences?

Thanks in advance!

 

JohnB

[First_N_Last]

Also being done is adding an AUX input amp/multi input combiner.

 

In our past FORUM blogs are comments on the AMPLIRIDER made by a person in Canada.

It seems to be a well thought out preamp for AUX input with 3 inputs & a remote volume controller if needed.

 

I've just written to see if he still makes & sells it.

I'll post the info here after I receive it.

 

JB

[reddevilmedic]

I have this.. http://www.basherdesigns.com/2010/04/07/diy-powerlet-to-usb-adapter/. but I also have a Powerlet...

[reddevilmedic]

something like this? http://www.sportouring.com/gallery.php?sectionHeaderActive=400&rangeChoosen=636.

[mbrood]

A simple LM323 5 volt, 3 Amp fixed regulator would be much simpler to bury and cheaper... needing only the usb connections wired in.

[dwatson636]

I am planning on adding this http://www.cyclenutz.com/All-Weather-USB-Panel-Mount-Kit_p_636.html to the plastic on the right back side of my seat under the flap. Puts it real close to the battery for wiring and will be easily accessible for my wife on the back to plug in the phone or ipod. I am also planning on putting a regular lighter plug on the right side of the seat so I can plug my helmet communications unit in to charge.

[BOO]

Great thread and links.

BOO

[MiCarl]

A simple LM323 5 volt, 3 Amp fixed regulator would be much simpler to bury and cheaper... needing only the usb connections wired in.

 

RadioShack used to sell one, and might still. Just a few $$

 

One thing to think about, you want the socket to be in a dry location. They'll corrode fast if damp and powered.

[First_N_Last]

Thanks for your info/suggestions. All of these are probably good for most needs.

Unfortunately they all seem to be limited to 5v 1amp output.

 

I have found that using 4G, Google Navigator & Pandora on my phone will exceed 1amp.

So... I am looking for the newer units which can provide up to 3amps.

 

This is what I am researching:

- Synchronous rectification,, the conversion rate is 96% or more, very low heat.

- Over voltage, over current, over temperature, short circuit, it can be auto protection,and can work in normal condition when restored.

- Epoxy potting, seismic, water, moisture, dust, long term stable and reliable quality.

- Super-thin, small size, high efficiency, easy installation and use.

- Input voltage: DC8-20V, (12V changes to 5V)

- Output parameter: DC5V3A, 15W

- Size: 46x27x14mm

 

Under fairing wiring - cigarette socket left alone - USB outlet run to my cassette pocket.

Thoughts??

 

JohnB

[First_N_Last]

A simple LM323 5 volt, 3 Amp fixed regulator would be much simpler to bury and cheaper... needing only the usb connections wired in.

 

This is probably what is buried in the units I'm considering for less than $10 delivered.

[mbrood]

At max rating you would still want a heatsink and at a minimum, ambient air, but that should work quite well. Remember that you really would prefer to operate the unit at or below 75% rated amperage just to keep margins.

 

The single IC with heatsink would suffice but the packaging is always a tradeoff so your research looks promising, and the price is a bit more that that of the device but the packaging looks advantageous. I would still consider a heatsink as the package size doesn't appear to offer much.

 

If you really need 3 Amp continual use, a 5 Amp or 10 Amp would be preferred.

[First_N_Last]

At max rating you would still want a heatsink and at a minimum, ambient air, but that should work quite well. Remember that you really would prefer to operate the unit at or below 75% rated amperage just to keep margins.

 

The single IC with heatsink would suffice but the packaging is always a tradeoff so your research looks promising, and the price is a bit more that that of the device but the packaging looks advantageous. I would still consider a heatsink as the package size doesn't appear to offer much.

 

If you really need 3 Amp continual use, a 5 Amp or 10 Amp would be preferred.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------

You seem very familiar with the TI LM323. What I calculated (SWAG) for efficiency of this IC is about 50%. Is that about right? In that case, it would have to be heat synced.

 

I expect my constant load to be less than 1.5 amps for my phoned fully loaded & multi-tasking apps.

 

This Chinese chip claims to have a 96% efficiency? That would indicate a very cool running design & no need for a sync for my 1.5 amp load.

 

For $5.99 delivered, I might just try it & see how cool it runs. It seems to be a nice clean small package, just wish I had a good clue about it's inside.

But for less than $6 ????

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-DC-Converter-Module-12V-5V-3A-15W-5V-usb-output-power-adapter-/261030955737?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc6a84ad9

 

JohnB

[Daveand Barbie]

I bought that $5.99 USB power supply and mounted it up. I will power my satellite radio but does not have enough to charge my Motorola cell phone or my Garmin 765T. I question whether it has the capacity to supply much more than 500 Ma.

 

I may have gotten a defective one, I don't know. In the future, for 6 bucks, I will just homebrew.

[mbrood]

Chinese and efficiency are rarely properly used together. The "quoted" rating and the package size are in total conflict and is pushing the edge of physics... remember, it's not just a rule... it's the law.

 

If your intended use is 1.5A then most devices in the 3 Amp range would suit but you still want a heatsink and ambient air. The heatsink isn't too hard to fabricate out of something or get a piece of finned aluminum and a hacksaw. You typically want 3 times the surface area of the device as a minimum sink. Bar stock isn't bad but the transfer of ribbed is exponentially better by surface area to the air. Drill for the mount bolt and use some heat transfer grease and you will both be happy campers. (At worst you can usually walk into a Radio/TV repair shop and "borrow" the tiny dab of grease that you need.)

[Flyinfool]

The other possibility is that they are not using a linear regulator. It may be a switching regulator which can run very cool and efficient.

 

With linear regulators, if you need 3A output then you will have a little more than 3 A input. The extra voltage is turned into heat to be dissipated.

 

With a linear regulator, if it can handle a 20V input, regulating to 5V, that means that the device has to dump 15V at 3A, or 45W of power as heat. That is a LOT of wasted energy.

 

With a switching regulator, if you were to put 20 V in to get 5V out, You would only need a little under 1 amp of input to get the 3 A of output and there is very little heat generated.

 

In radio control aircraft it is rare to see a linear regulator used any more, they just wast way to much power and are very inefficient when you need any significant output power.

 

The only problem with a switching regulator, (You never get nuttin for free) is that they cost more to design, more to build, and if the output filtering is not done just right they can leave ripple on either the input or output side that can cause other problems. Remember some of the radio interference issues with some of the early LED driving lights?

[aharbi]

From West Marine made by Blue Sea - 12V Dual USB Charger Plug

[Jayceesfolly]

I just looked at the eBay website for that power supply and at the bottom of the page (in RED BOLD type), it says not for iPhones or iPads. What does that mean????? It won't charge them ??????

 

 

Jim

[reddevilmedic]

go here... http://www.pashnit.com/product/3br/3br_tapp_usb.html#tapplite. spend the extra money to ensure the right product for I-thingys...

[First_N_Last]

go here... http://www.pashnit.com/product/3br/3br_tapp_usb.html#tapplite. spend the extra money to ensure the right product for I-thingys...

 

Thanks I see the one that provides up to 2A of USB power" - $45 is a bit pricey.

 

Also to be able to state all of that compatibility, I don't think many specific devices, using it can enable "Fast" charge. Many of the devices require a proprietary device which can be identified before enabling "Fast" charge. They will use the basic charge circuitry.

 

This one might have the Apple signature, but I find it hard to believe that it can provide multiple vendor charge system signatures.

Who knows????

 

If my $6 doesn't work out, I may just consider the 2A model.

 

JohnB

Edited April 16, 2013 by First_N_Last

[First_N_Last]

--------------------------------------------------------------------

You seem very familiar with the TI LM323. What I calculated (SWAG) for efficiency of this IC is about 50%. Is that about right? In that case, it would have to be heat synced.

 

I expect my constant load to be less than 1.5 amps for my phoned fully loaded & multi-tasking apps.

 

This Chinese chip claims to have a 96% efficiency? That would indicate a very cool running design & no need for a sync for my 1.5 amp load.

 

For $5.99 delivered, I might just try it & see how cool it runs. It seems to be a nice clean small package, just wish I had a good clue about it's inside.

But for less than $6 ????

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-DC-Converter-Module-12V-5V-3A-15W-5V-usb-output-power-adapter-/261030955737?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc6a84ad9

 

JohnB

 

 

6/23/2014

 

UPDATE -

 

My $6 unit has been working without any problems providing power for my Galaxy Note3

 

JohnB