Valve Shim Extraction

[camos]

The other day I attempted to remove one of the shims from the valve bucket, or whatever it is called. The slot kept rotating to an inaccessible area when inserting the lift tool. Any suggestions on how to go about getting those little suckers out?

[RedRider]

I use a mechanics pick.

 

RR

[MiCarl]

The way you do this is by rotating the bucket the opposite direction before inserting the tool. Then as the tool goes in it'll pull the slot back to where you need it.

[camos]

The way you do this is by rotating the bucket the opposite direction before inserting the tool. Then as the tool goes in it'll pull the slot back to where you need it.

That method was my first thought but since it appeared to be somewhat time consuming I thought I would see if someone had a better way.

 

I use a mechanics pick.

 

RR

Never heard of them before but they look like they would probably work better than a screwdriver.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

[Flyinfool]

I have also had success with a magnetic pickup tool.

Some times you still need the pick to break the oil seal before the magnet will pull it out.

[RedRider]

Never heard of them before but they look like they would probably work better than a screwdriver.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

An inexpensive set of mechanics picks are about $10. I'm sure they have them at Canadian Tire or Sears. Here in the States, HF has them for about $6.

 

Here you go. $8.39 at CT.

 

http://tinyurl.com/cpxp29e

 

RR

[Peder_y2k]

I found that a small square shank screwdriver was required to leverage the shim out of the bucket, as it resists bending better than round shanks, and reduces marking the head casting.

Suggestion: DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT WITH ANY SHIMS REMOVED.

 

Don't ask me how I know..........

 

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'83,88

[MiCarl]

An air stream from your air gun will also break tough ones loose. VERY messy though, hold a rag over everything if you try this.

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

I use a mechanics pick.

 

RR

 

Clive I was out at Princess Auto on Sunday and they have a nice little set there that Lori asked me if we should get..... sorry I said no.

[camos]

I have also had success with a magnetic pickup tool.

Some times you still need the pick to break the oil seal before the magnet will pull it out.

Already tried just the magnet but it wouldn't move the shim.

[camos]

An air stream from your air gun will also break tough ones loose. VERY messy though, hold a rag over everything if you try this.

My air gun? Hahahahaha... well if I had an air gun I would definitely give it a try.

[camos]

Clive I was out at Princess Auto on Sunday and they have a nice little set there that Lori asked me if we should get..... sorry I said no.

How long were the ones you looked at? The set at Canadian Tire are somewhat short.

[camos]

An inexpensive set of mechanics picks are about $10. I'm sure they have them at Canadian Tire or Sears. Here in the States, HF has them for about $6.

 

Here you go. $8.39 at CT.

 

http://tinyurl.com/cpxp29e

 

RR

The CT ones are a bit on the short side. When I googled it, Sears appeared to have a fairly long set but the Sears in my area carries hardly any tools but I haven't been there yet to actually see if they have them.

[camos]

I found that a small square shank screwdriver was required to leverage the shim out of the bucket, as it resists bending better than round shanks, and reduces marking the head casting.

Suggestion: DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT WITH ANY SHIMS REMOVED.

 

Don't ask me how I know..........

 

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'83,88

Yes, I saw that thread. Well done!

 

Thanks for the heads up.

[RedRider]

The CT ones are a bit on the short side. When I googled it, Sears appeared to have a fairly long set but the Sears in my area carries hardly any tools but I haven't been there yet to actually see if they have them.

 

I have a set of Sears and a set of HF. The Sears are longer, stronger, and much better quality. They were almost $10 though .

 

RR

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

I think maybe 4-6 inches is all they were..... dont know how long you need sorry

[camos]

I have a set of Sears and a set of HF. The Sears are longer, stronger, and much better quality. They were almost $10 though .

 

RR

I'll check at our Sears. One never knows, I might get lucky.

[camos]

I think maybe 4-6 inches is all they were..... dont know how long you need sorry

I don't know how long I need either but going from my very bad memory the shims are probably 4"-6" in so more length would be better. Still worth a look.

[camos]

Ended up getting the short pick set from Princess Auto which was about the same length every other store had. They were good enough to do what was necessary although a slightly longer set would have been better. The issue here is about trying to see around the hand holding the tool.

 

Started to pull the shims yesterday, got one out and back in with no problem but the second one was being difficult. Tried for 30 mins with no success so had to walk away from it. This morning started again at 10 am and finished at 5:30 pm. Had a few breaks, stretching and lunch, but what a freaking horrible job and unfortunately that is only half of it. Now I need to order the shims I don't have then go through the whole process again to put the new ones in.

 

There must be some reason, unknown to me, for using the shims but it seems to be the stupidest system I have run into yet. Setting the valves on the Virago is 30 mins tops and most of the time is taken freeing up the bolts on the valve covers. That's my rant for the day.

 

I have a question:

The chart in the manual is in 5 mm increments but if the shim size falls between EG: 282 mm what column should be used, the 280 or the 285? I seem to recall reading somewhere to round up but I'm not certain about that.

[RandyR]

Clive,

 

You can get 25mm diam shims from Triumph in .025mm increments if that helps?

 

I would go with the smaller shim otherwise, as the clearance tends to tighten up over time.

 

With shims, I don't think one needs to check the clearance as often as one has to with the old style tappets.

[camos]

Clive,

 

You can get 25mm diam shims from Triumph in .025mm increments if that helps?

 

I would go with the smaller shim otherwise, as the clearance tends to tighten up over time.

 

With shims, I don't think one needs to check the clearance as often as one has to with the old style tappets.

Went and had a look at the chart and the 280 stands for 2.80 mm while the 285 stands for 2.85 mm which makes the chart differential .05 mm per column. So what you are suggesting is to go with the lower number column? Good to know about Triumph. I'll check with both Yamaha and Triumph tomorrow.

 

Thanks Randy.

[kevin-vic-b.c.]

Went and had a look at the chart and the 280 stands for 2.80 mm while the 285 stands for 2.85 mm which makes the chart differential .05 mm per column. So what you are suggesting is to go with the lower number column? Good to know about Triumph. I'll check with both Yamaha and Triumph tomorrow.

 

Thanks Randy.

 

Triumph is Savage cycle Clive and they are not open on Mondays but SG is, Talk to Steph on the parts counter and tell her I sent you.... she will double the costs but will be happy I sent you

[camos]

Crawl back in your hole Kevin.

 

Thanks for the heads up on Savage Cycles though.

[camos]

I found the answer in the manual... who'da thunk?

 

Round the shim number to the nearest .05 whether it is up or down and follow that column. Of course the manual does not mention whether the clearance number should be rounded up or down.

 

I guess going with thinner would be the best choice here.

[camos]

I hate Yamaha!!!

 

It's going to cost $100.00 plus tax to get replacement shims and it will take a week to get them here.

 

Oh, did I say I hated Yamaha, well multiply that times 2.