STUCK, did something wrong in valve adjustment

[Peder_y2k]

Now I'm stuck. Following manual instructions, measured all the existing valve clearances. Used the adjusting tool and removed 2 adjusting disks for one cyclinder with minimal gap, then rotated crankshaft to do same on another cylinder and quickly discoverd the cam lobes now positioned down inside the lifter where the disk sits, and the camshaft could no longer be rotated without jamming the lobes into the side of of the lifters. Can't get the tool to work in this situation as the restricted cam rotation prevents adequate function.

What to do next?

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'88 XVZ13

Edited April 8, 2013 by Peder_y2k
situation ended

[muffinman]

Pete give me a call at 9196735095 or pm me your number and I will try to talk you through getting things back in order with the cams

 

 

 

Jeff

[Miles]

Pete, I do wish you had sent me a PM before doing this valve adjust, as there are several of us in the area, and at least one of us could have come to assist you.

 

Whew...now you are in a tough spot. Any chance you can move the cams...via the crank...to possibly slip a feeler guage under the cam lobe, so that the cam lobe rides on the surface of the feeler guage, and uses the feller guage as a slipper tool, so that you do not mess up the valve bucket ???

 

I don't think there is a possibility of pressing down on the valve bucket with enough force...when you have to do two buckets at the same time, to allow the cam to clear the valve bucket.

 

Once you do get this...unstuck...hopefully you will NOW know that if you remove a shim...you put another shim back in that same valve bucket...before you do anything else. And, you should not be removing both valve shims for the same cylinder, at the same time. Just do one at a time.

 

If you need help...if I can be of any help in this situation, PM me, and I am available tomorrow, and most days next week.

 

 

 

[mbrood]

First, you should have no spark plugs installed so you remove the compression. With that said, you should be able to rotate the crank in the opposite direction to get clear. If the lifter bucket "ears" are still blocking you should be able to use two flat blades to pry the left pr right edge of the bucket down to put a thin flat bar (small screwdriver shank?) across the bucket center of each affected and then back up the crank.

[bkuhr]

I have loosened the cam caps enough to raise the cam to get shims out. Only issue is if chain jumps a gear tooth, then you will need to go thru complete timing setup. If you do this, first verify all timing marks, and second remove cam chain tensioner and reset it, to prevent it from closing to much.

 

Good luck

[Peder_y2k]

NOT STUCK ANYMORE. Fabricated a couple of 'slipper spoons' for the cam lobes to ride up on and push the lifter buckets down out of the way. Situation all normal now.

 

Many thanks to all who suggested ideas. Those suggestions led me to focus on the concept of the escape ramp, so I went to my local $ store looking for something suitable for raw materials, picked up a long chrome handled measure spoon just for the material in the handle, discarded the colored silicone spoon, cut the metal bar (the handle) in half to make two tools, ground a taper at the working ends, measured the distance from lobe contact down in the bucket to the side casting wall, bent the tool 90* at that point, and now had verticle handles for the short ramp to slip under the lobe. With one hand lightly stabilizing both tools, rotated the camshaft via the crank and the slip tools worked perfectly. The cam lobe rode the ramp pushing the bucket down and out of the way, and with the lobes now pointing up, the tools were easily removed.

 

Much relieved, can now get back to adjusting valves properly.

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'83,88XVZ

[Flyinfool]

Glad to hear.

 

Save those tools for the next guy that does that.

 

NOW DON'T DO THAT AGAIN.

[dvuch1]

Ah the next guy might be me....as my bucket is down

[Peder_y2k]

Ah the next guy might be me....as my bucket is down

Tool only works when shim is missing, but would certainly function for cam lobe pushing the bucket down against the pressure of the valve spring. A spacer like a 25¢ piece placed under the tool could move the bucket down even more

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

[djh3]

OH my. I hate to ask why you took 2 shims out at same time.

[Peder_y2k]

Uhhhhh................efficiency?

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

[Neil86]

2 is fine as long as they are both being held open with the tool.

[jasonm.]

Now I'm stuck. Following manual instructions, measured all the existing valve clearances. Used the adjusting tool and removed 2 adjusting disks for one cyclinder with minimal gap, then rotated crankshaft to do same on another cylinder and quickly discoverd the cam lobes now positioned down inside the lifter where the disk sits, and the camshaft could no longer be rotated without jamming the lobes into the side of of the lifters. Can't get the tool to work in this situation as the restricted cam rotation prevents adequate function.

What to do next?

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

'88 XVZ13

I posted this before....You should never rotate the crank without ALL shims in place. Write down the numbers and reinstall before checking the others. Reading the manual helps. Sounds like you now have it fixed. But the shims are glass smooth and anything other than a shim in the bucket can scratch the cams and take the hard chrome plating off.