MORE lights.....

[GolfVenture]

Here is the list of LED bulbs that I used. (so Far:whistling:)

All are from www.superbrightleds.com.

Not the cheapest bulbs around but I have never been disappointed with their products.

These are all far brighter than the incandescents they replace.

 

In the dash;

WLED-AHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Amber, Qty 2

WLED-GHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Green, Qty 1

WLED_BHP, 194 LED Wedge Base Bulb, Blue, Qty 1

WLED-CWHP15-TAC, 194 LED Wedge Base Tower White, Qty 4

 

Brake lights;

1157-R45-T, 1157 LED bulb, Dual intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Red, Qty 2

 

Turn signals;

1157-A45-T, 1157 LED Bulb, Dual Intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Amber, Qty 2

1156-A45-T, 1156 LED Bulb, Single Intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Amber, Qty 2

 

 

I thought that one could not just replace brake lights and turn singals to LEDs resulting in some sort of flashing warning light in the dash control unit.

[Flyinfool]

Anyone know what the number is for the headlight bulb on the 1993?

 

The headlight is an H4. Mine has already been upgraded to HID 3 years ago.

 

I thought that one could not just replace brake lights and turn singals to LEDs resulting in some sort of flashing warning light in the dash control unit.

 

This is true. You have to do the jumpers in the CMU if you are going to change out the brake lights to LED. The CMU does not monitor the turn signals.

 

What software are you using for circuit design ??

 

Gary

 

Depending on my mood I use either PCB123, ExpressPCB, or Eagle. On this one I used ExpressPCB.

[GolfVenture]

Well then Trun Signals are ok.

 

I'll have to order some of these...

Turn signals;

1157-A45-T, 1157 LED Bulb, Dual Intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Amber, Qty 2

1156-A45-T, 1156 LED Bulb, Single Intensity 45 SMD LED Tower, Amber, Qty 2

 

Which are the front and which are the rear?

[Flyinfool]

1157 front

1156 rear

 

Super bright recommends installing one 6 ohm 50 W resistor by each bulb. That's 4 resistors!

I used two 3.3 ohm 50W resistors, one for left and one for right.

The resistor I used is from Mouser P/n HS50 3R3 1%.

 

Back when I did my HID conversion I jumpered all 4 sensors in the CMU knowing that some day I would do the LEDs in the tail light.

[Flyinfool]

Progress!!!!

 

Here is a pic of the first finished PCB for the horn flasher.

 

Now to install it on the bike........

 

Edited January 8, 2017 by Freebird

[Flyinfool]

Well it was getting a little warmer than what I like.

I thought that since this is for very short intermittent use that I could get away with just using the ground plane copper on the board for a heat sink.

I will need a little more heat sink than that. It is borderline OK but borderline is never good enough for me. With the full load of the bikes lights, It got to the point of being uncomfortable to touch (about 140 F) after about 30 seconds.

I will get a small aluminum heat sink to add and it will be fine. I doubt I will ever lay on the horn for more than 30 seconds at a time.

[Jayceesfolly]

Jeff:

 

Just read thru this thread and only understood about 25% of what you are doing. (I'm electrically challenged.) My question is......where do you place the two resistors for the turn signals? I understand why they are needed, just need to know where to insert them in the circuits. I want to convert my turn signals to LED's.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

Jim

[Snaggletooth]

There used to be some information on this site about the connection for the kits for a simple install but they have changed to site around quite a bit and I can't find the diagrams now

 

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fpt%2Floadresistor.html

 

But it looks like Jeff is building them directly into a new circuit board and like you at that point...........huh?

 

Waiting to see what he comes up with myself. I've replaced about every light with LEDs except for the brake and turn signals. Gunna hafta get done someday.

[Flyinfool]

That's OK, I just use a lot of big words, I really don't know much either........

 

If you use the resistors that I gave a source for, you only need one for the right and one for the left. The resistors from most other sources you need one for each LED bulb you install so you would need 4 resistors to do the turn signals.

With the resistors that I used you connect it with one lead to ground, and the other lead goes to the wire that goes to the turn signal bulb, Dark Green for the right and brown for the left, this can be tapped in anywhere on the bike that it is convenient, I did mine in the faring cuz I had it all opened and it was easy at the time. Under the seat where you tap in for trailer hitch wiring is also a great place.

 

The turns do not go thru the CMU so there are no issues there.

The tail and brake lights DO go thru the CMU so you will need to jumper the CMU to avoid the red warning light on a 1st gen.

[Jayceesfolly]

Thanks for the explanation and help. I will order the resisters and install them when I install a new R/R. I will put them under the fairing because I have to split it to install a new R/R. I have already bypassed the coils in the CMU for the brakes and taillights, as they are already LED's.

 

Thanks again

 

 

Jim

[eagleeye]

Did you try clicking on the link that you posted in this thread? I just did it again and it worked fine. I don't know much about computer stuff, but people talk about clearing your cache.

just sayin

[snyper316]

Hey Jeff I have a good one for you after following your link and looking under H4 headlight LED Conversion, It was right underneath the the kit.

 

Would this do the trick to our CMU https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/daytime-running-light-bulb/led-warning-canceller-for-h4-led-motorcycle-headlight-bulb-conversion-kit/3964/8623/