Eck Posted April 1, 2013 #2 Posted April 1, 2013 Just my opinion here... but I would think your pushing the limit if you are deciding to pull that trailer with your bike.. One time is all it would take for you to be in a situation where you had to brake hard and that thing will push you down the road uncontrollably. Yes, the tongue weight and trailer weight are within the "so called" allowable parameters, however the amount of force would be way out of the limits of safety Two key points to ponder in making your decision: Force is the mass of the object multiplied by its acceleration (http://cramster-image.s3.amazonaws.com/definitions/mech-26-eq-1.gif). The direction of the force determines the direction in which the object moves Read more about force here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Force Hope this helps you make a safe decision..
rickardracing Posted April 1, 2013 #3 Posted April 1, 2013 That is sweet!!!. I would pull it with a trike.
Cougar Posted April 1, 2013 #4 Posted April 1, 2013 Love it !! yes, I would pull it as well with my Trike. so you need to sell it to me
Eck Posted April 1, 2013 #5 Posted April 1, 2013 That is sweet!!!. I would pull it with a trike. Still dangerous, but a lot safer than using a two wheel....
TheKid Posted April 1, 2013 #6 Posted April 1, 2013 That is about as heavy or even lighter that the pop-up campers that a lot of us pull. I pull a aspen classic with my two wheeler. Yes I understand force and physics very well. You just have to be even more careful and give your self even more room. Up to you but I think you would be ok other than the DRAG it will put on the bike.
Brake Pad Posted April 1, 2013 #7 Posted April 1, 2013 I think its to High, to much drag. My trailer is 190 lbs, but two up loaded, it takes 1/4 miles to slow it down, in a controlled stop from 70 mph:confused24:
Condor Posted April 1, 2013 #8 Posted April 1, 2013 The weight specs are empty. Start loading the trailer up with 'stuff' and it's going to get heavy real quick. The tongue weight is OK, but the mass is going to be tough to stop. You might want to consider electric brakes...
djh3 Posted April 1, 2013 #9 Posted April 1, 2013 I hate to ask or "assume", but I'm guessing no one is using trailer brakes? The electric type on my PU I could see being out of the question, but what about one of the slide-tounge hyd units? It sure would help I would think. BTW sharp looking trailer. The weight would scare heck outa me and the height too.
robclark63 Posted April 1, 2013 #10 Posted April 1, 2013 Just like in the RV world I see a lot of people that tow campers that are way to heavy for their vehicle but they say they can pull it...They can "pull it" but even with electric brakes it is too heavy for their tow vehicle. I am with Condor if you do pull it electric brakes will definitely be worth it. Just my 2 cents
Condor Posted April 1, 2013 #11 Posted April 1, 2013 I hate to ask or "assume", but I'm guessing no one is using trailer brakes? The electric type on my PU I could see being out of the question, but what about one of the slide-tounge hyd units? It sure would help I would think. BTW sharp looking trailer. The weight would scare heck outa me and the height too. Give B&F Specialties a shout. They're the folks that make the Bunkhouse trailer. They also deal with electric brakes. After searching the web there a bunch of bike pulling trailers with electrics... I believe they also came up with an electric/hydralic system.
Yamamike Posted April 1, 2013 #12 Posted April 1, 2013 I hate to ask or "assume", but I'm guessing no one is using trailer brakes? The electric type on my PU I could see being out of the question, but what about one of the slide-tounge hyd units? It sure would help I would think. BTW sharp looking trailer. The weight would scare heck outa me and the height too. I agree but FYI...the hydraulic brakes you refer to require more maintenance and are a HUGE PIA to bleed. They also require some getting used to due to the way they are applied. They can be a little "jerky" under light braking which might be spooky in corners. Just M2C
etcswjoe Posted April 1, 2013 #14 Posted April 1, 2013 I looked at a similiar one and the same things were said and after just puliing it around the dealers parking lot I decided it was too much.
Cougar Posted April 1, 2013 #15 Posted April 1, 2013 Friend of mine found one of these and got it for $700 http://www.microlitetrailer.com/MLThome4.htm Score notice what it is hooked up to.
HGWT Posted April 6, 2013 #16 Posted April 6, 2013 I had a bunkhouse from B&F specialties. By the time we got it loaded with all the gear, ice chest a/c etc....... it was almost 450 lbs. The bike pulled it fine. Braking required a judicious use of the brake on the bike. Fuel mileage suffered tremendously. It cost less to pull the bushtec and stay in a motel.
Flash18 Posted July 17, 2014 #17 Posted July 17, 2014 I'm considering a camper trailer similar to this one. What kind of trailer is this? If you did purchase it, how does it travel, and how does it affect you mpg? My fiance has towed much bigger on his GL1500, I will be upgrading his bike in the next year or two to a new GL1800, and he seems confident in pulling it.
djh3 Posted July 17, 2014 #18 Posted July 17, 2014 the more I look at this thing, the forces of the mass and all something else popped into my head. there must be over 50 sq ft of area to get pushed around by wind, semis, cross winds etc. Youll not only be changing lanes without any warning you may be in a different county.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 17, 2014 #19 Posted July 17, 2014 I might pull that with a SmartCar or Mini Cooper, but not a motorcycle. My .
Brake Pad Posted July 17, 2014 #20 Posted July 17, 2014 The wing can handle it, two up 320 lbs loaded trailer, you'll be slow rolling, I would not take that up on a highway:twing:
Flyinfool Posted July 17, 2014 #21 Posted July 17, 2014 The trailer its self should not be an issue for the bike to pull. The issue will come when you fill it with stuff. My trailer loaded is about 375-400 and 40 tongue. It is no problem but I am looking into adding brakes to it because I do not like the extended stopping distance required. Since I live just north of Chicago I have to deal with those knuckleheads more than I would like to and want to retain the ability for a fast emergency stop. I think that there are a lot of trailers in that weight range being pulled by our V4s. But that is the fully loaded weight. With the side area of that trailer, you will have to be very careful in cross winds. Whether it will work behind your bike will boil down to how much stuff you pack inside it for a trip. Because it is tall and wide you may need to add something to your mirrors to be able to see behind you. That is required by law in most states. With that height and width expect very much reduced gas mileage and be ready to be cruising one gear lower than you are used to. Especially with a head wind.
djh3 Posted July 17, 2014 #22 Posted July 17, 2014 My experience is what ever size container you have, it seems to get filled up. I bet I could get half a ton of stuff in there.
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 17, 2014 #23 Posted July 17, 2014 Just pull one of these and be done with it... [ame]http://youtu.be/XxvfDTaUVAo[/ame]
dacheedah Posted July 17, 2014 #24 Posted July 17, 2014 I bought some electric brakes from a wing guy who took them off his camper. I have yet to work them on a trailer but thought of a diy tear drop. I did see an old vet running across america pulling one with a road king, it was home made and very small, made for one person. I spoke to the guy it was his 3rd build, each time they got lighter and smaller. No windows, just an rv vent ontop. His was made of 1/4" ply with a very thin layer of fiberglass and the back was painted florescent orange. He also said he wouldn't go over 50 mph and only took state roads.
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