Rick Haywood Posted March 30, 2013 #1 Posted March 30, 2013 Here is what is happening. First let me tell you what went on. I put in a new ignition switch and also put in a relay for the lights. I was having a problem with the throttle not wanting to return to Idle position so I had the clam shell apart cleaning and adjusting everything. Got everything fixed and the bike was running fine. Yesterday I noticed every time I stopped and hit the kill switch the audio system went off for a second or two and then came back on. (it shouldn't do this) I also noticed that the trip odometers went back to zero and the clock went to 12:00. After starting the bike again the audio system would stop for a second them come back on and it would do this a couple of times til you got rolling. I must mention that other than this the bike ran great. Well I stopped at the store and parked up front and when I hit the kill switch everything quite working, lights, audio system, everything. Not lights, no dash lights no nothing. I checked the fuses and found the Ignition fuse blown. I changed it out and ta da everything worked til I went to hit the starter button. It wouldn't do anything. It acted like the kill switch was still on. I checked, it wasn't. I have the bike apart and checked the ignition switch and it is good, checked all fuses, Good. Looking for suggestions and was wondering if anyone has had a kill switch go bad and if so can you bypass it or do anything to get the bike to run till you replace it. forgot to add it is a 2000 RSV
muffinman Posted March 30, 2013 #2 Posted March 30, 2013 Rick make sure the battery cables are clean and tight it sounds like a loose or bad connection Jeff
Rick Haywood Posted March 30, 2013 Author #3 Posted March 30, 2013 Rick make sure the battery cables are clean and tight it sounds like a loose or bad connection Jeff Jeff I did all that. It does exactly like the kill switch is on or it's in gear.
muffinman Posted March 30, 2013 #4 Posted March 30, 2013 Try the kickstand switch that will keep it from starting and kill it when going down the road if it wants too. Don't ask me how I know that one Jeff
dacheedah Posted March 30, 2013 #5 Posted March 30, 2013 My first thought is to try to bypass the kill switch and ride a bit, if the issue doesn't reoccur it's the switch or wiring between where you bypassed it or the switch. I have never pulled a kill switch apart but my guess is not too many moving parts. Could also try to spray contact cleaner in it but my experience is when a switch starts going south you are just prolonging the inevitable and that will happen at the worse possible moment. If it wasn't the kill switch I would peak at the ignition switch or sidestand but with the blinking on the power side I would throw my guess at the ignition switch.
Condor Posted March 30, 2013 #6 Posted March 30, 2013 This is just a thought... With the on/off again issue with the systems, could the problem have something to do with how the relay has been installed?? From what I gather the problem started after the ignition switch was replaced and relay were installed...
Rick Haywood Posted March 30, 2013 Author #7 Posted March 30, 2013 OK I used an Ohm meter to check the kickstand switch and the kill switch. If I know what I am doing they both show good. With the kill switch on it show a complete circuit with it off nothing, same as with the kick stand.
Rick Haywood Posted March 30, 2013 Author #8 Posted March 30, 2013 OK I checked the starter relay and it is good. I also jumped across it and the bike turned over but wouldn't start. cleaned all connections and still nothing. Not sure where to turn to next.
uncledj Posted March 30, 2013 #9 Posted March 30, 2013 I think the important bit of evidence here is that the ignition fuse was blown........WHY ?........ It sounds like when you hit the kill switch you shorted something momentarily, which is what killed the radio, and whatever shorted has gone to a consistent short, or is consistently open. Did it blow the fuse again? Any pinched wires after having the "clamshell" apart? The problem may be in close proximity to the switch that was worked on, or along the wiring from the kill switch. If I had a schematic of your bike, that may offer some places to focus on. Anyhoo, that's my $0.02 Best of luck.
Dragonslayer Posted March 30, 2013 #10 Posted March 30, 2013 I had a similar problem with my 1st gen after about a month of electrical trouble shooting it turned out to be a small spot of carbon build up on the ignition switch and kill switch contacts. I took them apart and cleaned the contacts and everything was fine.
Eck Posted March 30, 2013 #11 Posted March 30, 2013 disconnect the relays you installed and see what happens..
Rick Haywood Posted March 30, 2013 Author #12 Posted March 30, 2013 Well If I did the tests correctly as stated in the Clymers manual I have found my problem. It is the starter circuit cutoff relay. Kind of a pain to get to but I hope that is the problem. . Ordered the part and all I can do now is wait for it to show up. Keeping my fingers crossed:scratchchin: Thanks for all the ideas from everyone, and thanks Jeff for the call.
BOO Posted March 31, 2013 #13 Posted March 31, 2013 I hope that works out for you but it sure sounds like it is something to do with the kill switch/ignition area unless a secondary problem has popped up. Good Luck, BOO
Rick Haywood Posted March 31, 2013 Author #14 Posted March 31, 2013 My thought exactly but everything runs through the cutoff relay, side stand, kill, & neutral switch, Oil level safety switch and the rollover kill switch,Ignition switch, fuel pump and starter button. Has 12 different wires coming in and out. Hopefully I checked it correctly and if I did i shows no continuity from the starter button to the starter relay.
Rick Haywood Posted April 5, 2013 Author #15 Posted April 5, 2013 Yea, I got the bike running again. It was not the $40 relay that I ordered so if anyone needs a Ignition Circuit Cutoff Relay don't order one I have a new one for you. The problem was the hot wire coming into the back of the fuse box where the ignition fuse is. Was all corroded and broke off.. Just glad it is fixed and I didn't have to take it to a dealer to figure out.
ToyOdie Posted April 6, 2013 #17 Posted April 6, 2013 Rick, I think you might be over thinking this. The Kill Switch is more than likely the issue. When you took the clamshell apart to work on your throttle problem you may have broken the bakeolite toggle for the switch. I had a similar problem on the left side with my headlight switch. It affected the turn signals. Open up the clamshell and take a close look at the switch. Where the wires are soldered to the contacts is where mine cracked and then broke. This caused an intermittent ground that would kill my turn signals. If it isn't in the right spot when you put the clamshell back together it gets pinched and can be broken. I had to replace the switch. Unfortunately the switch by itself isn't available. I had to buy the whole assy from a junkyard in South Carolina. Hope this helps.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now