Stuck sparkplug

[Venturous Randy]

While at Asheville last summer, I decided to put in a set of sparkplugs I had with me. As usual, I warmed up the engine some and the right front sparkplug came out fine. I then went to the right rear and it moved just a little and froze. Rather than chance stripping the head, I quit. I always use anti-seize and have not had this problem before. I am going to get the engine warm again and give it another try, but I am open for suggestions.

RandyA

[Power Trippin]

If you have an air compressor, blow all air away from the spark plug hole, then get some transmission fluid to the spark plug where it meets the cyl head. Let it sit overnight. Next day, work plug back and forth. If you have used anti-sieze on the plugs, either a piece of dirt got onto the threads and is jamming the plug, or water has gotten into the threads and corroded them. Either way, I have had luck with transmission fluid as it has a good amount of anti-corrossion properies in it. Good Luck!

[GaryZ]

This is going to sound crazy . . . Try an air impact wrench, maybe an air ratchet.

 

Let me explain;

My friend has a 2005 Mustang GT with 100k miles on the original spark plugs. The manual says to change the plugs at 100k miles. These plugs have an extended tip and they apparently get carbon build-up after 50k miles. The carbon build-up will cause the plug to bind it can break, or, strip the threads in the aluminum head.

 

Two Ford mechanics told us to use a 3/8" impact!

At first I thought that was nuts. However, the more I thought about it, the more sense it made. The impact should knock the carbon off.

 

I set the compressor for 60psi, used a deep socket with 10" extension, and we replaced all of her plugs in under 45 minutes. No problems.

[bikenut]

Bet you a small stone was on top of the plug wire when you pulled it off and fell back in by the plug and will jam the plug as you turn it. Like others have stated use some air and blow it out good but turn the plug back in just a little first.

Good luck

[timgray]

Only way he can do this is to disassemble the whole bike. No chance of getting an impact wrench anywhere near any of the sparkplugs.

 

This is going to sound crazy . . . Try an air impact wrench, maybe an air ratchet.

 

Let me explain;

My friend has a 2005 Mustang GT with 100k miles on the original spark plugs. The manual says to change the plugs at 100k miles. These plugs have an extended tip and they apparently get carbon build-up after 50k miles. The carbon build-up will cause the plug to bind it can break, or, strip the threads in the aluminum head.

 

Two Ford mechanics told us to use a 3/8" impact!

At first I thought that was nuts. However, the more I thought about it, the more sense it made. The impact should knock the carbon off.

 

I set the compressor for 60psi, used a deep socket with 10" extension, and we replaced all of her plugs in under 45 minutes. No problems.

[mbrood]

They DO make a right angle converter for 3/8" and 1/2" drive. But I would mix ATF and acetone , 50/50 and drip a half a teaspoon down the plug hole and wait overnight. Best penetrant I've found.

Edited March 26, 2013 by mbrood

[Evan]

I'm no expert here but I can share my experience. I have used a flex joint combined with a short 3/8 drive extension to remove my plugs on my 88 VR. Worked great. There is no reason why I could not have used my air drive ratchet or even a 3/8 impact wrench instead of my regular ratchet with this setup. I have seen how well impact drives work at removing seized bolts so in my opinion, this is certainly worth trying. Of course, a dose of penetration oil can only help. I also agree with using air pressure to clean out the plug wells.

[CaptainJoe]

Personally,

I'd do the 50/50 acetone/ATF overnight as was suggested and the next day run it for at least 15 min till it's good and hot... then use a hand ratchet and work back and forth slowly but surely and adding that mix or pkblaster as necessary.

 

 

THE KEY IS TO GET IT HOT... just like oxygen sensors on a car they come off easily when pipes are red hot...

 

You could also take an ice cube from your ice maker and touch base of plug... it will shrink ever so slightly but just might make the difference...

 

just my 2 cents...

Edited March 27, 2013 by CaptainJoe

[Venturous Randy]

I just bought a new air nozzle with the long stem on it and I thought about getting the engine hot and blowing a little on the base of the sparkplug, but not enough to cool the head. I will also do the acetone transfluid mix.

RandyA

Edited March 27, 2013 by Venturous Randy

[djh3]

Brake fluid is suposed to be a good "break free" type fluid also. I'm kind of partial to liquid wrench or a PB blaster. I have a friend who works in a salvage yard and he says thats what the use out in the yard is the brake fluid. Good luck.

[Flyinfool]

Brake fluid is suposed to be a good "break free" type fluid also. I'm kind of partial to liquid wrench or a PB blaster. I have a friend who works in a salvage yard and he says thats what the use out in the yard is the brake fluid. Good luck.

 

Be very careful with both acetone and brake fluid on these bikes. They will both have any plastic or paint they find for lunch.

[Prairiehammer]

Randy,

Consider using a high temperature anti-seize such as the copper based product by Fel-Pro; called ON N'OFF, part number 115. I use it on my spark plug threads and exhaust system fasteners without fail.

 

NAPA sells an aluminum based anti-seize (HeliCoil) called Never-Seez, PN 765-2569 but I only use it on steel bolts threaded into steel.

[djh3]

The anit-seize I have is a permatex brand. Looks to be alum based as it is silver. Anyways we used the coper-slip stuff in the race shop too. Nuts bolts and things not used in a heat environment (suspension parts etc) got the copper stuff, hot things like header bolts, clamps, plugs got the alum looking stuff. I use it on my plugs as I know thats what its made for. I wonder if the anit-siez products out there are made like the thread lockers, sort of an agreement that a blue lock tight compound is the same no matter who makes it and a red is red etc.

[Prairiehammer]

Dion,

 

The copper based high-temp should be used on the high heat fasteners. The aluminum based stuff I have, specifically discourages use in a high heat environment. I don't use the aluminum based anti-seize when screwing steel parts into aluminum. Seems like the aluminum anti-seize would not prevent seizing in aluminum engines.

 

My description details the composition of the two anti-seize products, not necessarily the color. The Fel-Pro contains copper. The NAPA product contains aluminum. I've noted that some newer anti-seize products are aluminum based with a copper COLOR. Not the same.

Edited March 27, 2013 by Prairiehammer
clarification

[bongobobny]

So did you get it out yet Randy??

[Venturous Randy]

So did you get it out yet Randy??

 

 

Not yet, I have been busy doing other things for other folks and have not taken time yet to look at the bike. We are going to get a warm up here in the next few days and if I am going to crank the bike up and run it until it gets warm, I would want to open the doors some.

I do appreciate the comments and suggestions.

RandyA

[Yammer Dan]

Is it soaking??

[bongobobny]

I can sure understand the "busy with other things" angle!! Been doing a complete kitchen remodel myself and it seems I don't have time to pay bills or take a healthy crap...

[Flyinfool]

I can sure understand the "busy with other things" angle!! Been doing a complete kitchen remodel myself and it seems I don't have time to pay bills or take a healthy crap...

 

Well then we can all be certain that you are full of it........

[KIC]

Well then we can all be certain that you are full of it........

 

Very rarely does someone leave themselves that wide open for a great comeback...

[bongobobny]

Well, yeah, I do try to make it easy on dim witted people to have their chance at a snappy comeback...

[Venturous Randy]

OoooooooooooKkkkkkkkkkkk.

Last night I went out to the garage and made me up a concoction of trans fluid and acetone. I took my air hose and blew out all around the spark plug. I then squirted a little lube around the spark plug and let it sit for a while. I then started the bike and let it warm up good. I then used the long air nozzle to blow a little air onto the spark plug, then squirted a little more lube on.

I started trying to back out the spark plug and even though it was pretty tight, it did give a little. So, I did the back and forth thing until it got a little easier and finally I was comfortable in screwing it out. I cleaned it all out good and put some anti-seize that is made for spark plugs and tightened it down. I also changed the other two I had not changed at Asheville and everything was good to go and the bike did start easier.

I am still going to work back through all the connections in the ignition system and see where any resistance may be that is causing the voltage drop. I am seeing about a two volt drop from the battery to the TCI when I turn on the ignition switch.

Anyway, I do appreciate the comments and phone call and wanted to let everyone know that I did get the plug out.

RandyA

[Yammer Dan]

Good news Randy!!