Snaggletooth Posted March 25, 2013 Share #1 Posted March 25, 2013 On the subject of Tag-A-Long trailers has anyone found a better quality lock assembly and I like to replace the two tie down latchs with something better. Maybe even a locking tie down latch. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted March 25, 2013 Share #2 Posted March 25, 2013 You talking about tie down rings? How about some of these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share #3 Posted March 25, 2013 You talking about tie down rings? How about some of these? Nope, these are the actual latches on either side of the lock to clamp the top of the box down tight. Which they do a rather poor job of. So looking for something better. I remounted the box with "J" hooks and have a cargo net and straps to secure the load inside so I'm covered there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muffinman Posted March 25, 2013 Share #4 Posted March 25, 2013 I fabricated my own to lock my box there just doesn't seem to be any good alternatives out there when I was looking Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share #5 Posted March 25, 2013 That's kind of where I'm at. Not finding anything that fits or takes a bunch of mods to make it work. Of course the plastic box body don't make it any easier. The lock change over is doable but the latches are not much more than barely functional. I know, I know..... It's HF. So I thought I'd ask around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakester Posted March 25, 2013 Share #6 Posted March 25, 2013 Have you called the piggy-backer trailer bunch? The trailers look very similar, and they have replacement parts on hand. 800-448-4841. Give em a try. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jayceesfolly Posted March 25, 2013 Share #7 Posted March 25, 2013 Mike: I mounted an eye hook below the clamp, on the front and rear, and ran a strap over the top and tighten it down to hold the cover on. See pics for the eye hooks. I don't have a pic of the strap over the cover, because it is being painted. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted March 25, 2013 Share #8 Posted March 25, 2013 Yup the cargo strap was going to be my next suggestion. You could fab up a couple of guides to run the straps under. Pop rivit them to the top and then run the strap over lid to hold on to it. But I would be cautious how much I would crank it down. Them things dont look all that sturdy. The other idea I just had was to mount the ratchet end to the trailer and then cut the strap down to a couple feet say and drill a couple holes in lid and use some feder washers under it and screw the atrap to the lid. this way you wouldnt have to run the strap all the way over and possibly have the straps whistle to you going down the road. I have had a few things with that style of "over center lock" None seem to really work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share #9 Posted March 26, 2013 (edited) You could fab up a couple of guides to run the straps under. Possibly have the straps whistle to you going down the road. After 13 years of flat bedding I never wanted to see another strap on a trailer. Yuk! But....... Guides I got. Plenty of rifle sling hardware in the shop. One on the top would keep it from sliding back. And quickly detachable when not needed. A couple to D-Rings at the attachment point where the the lower box support strap bolts onto the lower body would be as good a any place to mount those. A simple slip grip on the strap would be plenty. Not a lot of pressure needed. For you guy that have the strap whistle problem..... a half twist in the strap on any long exposed section of strap should quiet that right down. Used to get a dozen straps on a load and it would set up quite a hum. A twist or two shut 'em right up. Looks like I'll have to settle for a hasp and padlock for my extra security. Seems silly as the body can be made into a convertable with a decent lock blade but it should slow a BG down a bit. Edited March 26, 2013 by Snaggletooth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted March 26, 2013 Share #10 Posted March 26, 2013 http://www.reliablehardware.com/springloadeddrawboltstainlesssteel.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share #11 Posted March 26, 2013 http://www.reliablehardware.com/springloadeddrawboltstainlesssteel.aspx Thanks, That looks interesting. Cheap enough to experiment with to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrench Posted March 26, 2013 Share #12 Posted March 26, 2013 Depends on how much $$ you want to spend. Here's a couple of places to try, they both carry good quality hardware. I've also saw a few types of latches at TSC that probably would work. www.mscdirect.com/ www.mcmaster.com/# I need to get my hitch and wiring on this Venture, then get the trailer out and cleaned up. Did I read a post somewhere that most folks take 1 leaf spring out?? I only pulled mine on one "long" trip to the Smokies back in '09 and it seemed like it was pretty stiff. Been kicking around selling it, still not sure if I'm going to or not. I may wind up building an aluminum box, a friend of mine has plans that use one 4 X 8 sheet of diamond plate. I was following a semi on the interstate last week and also thought that the "quilted" look that is on some trailer doors would look pretty good too. You still can't beat that little trailer for the money though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share #13 Posted March 26, 2013 I can't go to McMaster Carr. I got to get my CC out every time I log it there. Jeff's got me beat. He opened an account with them. That place is addictive. But since you said so............I'll go "Look". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share #14 Posted March 26, 2013 (edited) Depends on how much $$ you want to spend. Here's a couple of places to try, they both carry good quality hardware. I've also saw a few types of latches at TSC that probably would work. www.mscdirect.com/ www.mcmaster.com/# Did I read a post somewhere that most folks take 1 leaf spring out?? I only pulled mine on one "long" trip to the Smokies back in '09 and it seemed like it was pretty stiff. The trailer is rated at what? 600 lbs right? I have to wonder how much difference there is with that number after removing the over loads. Like I'm going to pull that much. Don't think so. LOL! Yep, some have and I concidered it. I wondered how much effect it would actually have. I mounted my Drift camera on the rear crash bar facing to the rear and hooked up the trailer and went for a ride. (with the overload springs in) The first trip was empty and I discovered how much time the tires actually spend off the road. A lot more that I expected. Lots of day light under the rubber on an average road surface. Which I say is a cause of tire wear. With a normal day trip or light weekend gear load, the tires stayed on the ground just fine. A little rough bounce on a bad bump but nothing too serious. So I loaded it down with every thing I would take in a long, I'm living outa here, camping, fishing, fixin' broken stuff, cooler and firewood trip. Probably over 225 lbs or more. The camera showed a smooth ride, no serious bounce and no lean through the curves. I'm going to leave the overload springs in for now. Edited March 26, 2013 by Snaggletooth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted March 26, 2013 Share #15 Posted March 26, 2013 Heres another http://www.rvpartsnation.com/product/9928/hood-latch-rubber. I am working on a bicycle rack and a overhead carrier basket that I can raise to open the toppee and lower to keep a low cg when on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrench Posted March 26, 2013 Share #16 Posted March 26, 2013 I am working on a bicycle rack and a overhead carrier basket that I can raise to open the toppee and lower to keep a low cg when on the road. That reminds me, last week I saw a guy on a Gold Wing with a mountain bike across the back. Kinda got a little chuckle outta that one,,,,. Yeah Snaggletooth, I'm leaning toward leaving mine as-is and try it for now too. If I do pull it somewhere, it most likely will be loaded for at least a long weekends worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share #17 Posted March 26, 2013 I think I got around the latch and locking issue. And on the cheap. Looking at the latch lever it does have a slot in it. Pic# 1 By cutting a piece of metal strap just wide enough to fit through the slot I made a long sided "L" bracket that will mount using the existing bolts for the latch. Pic# 2 With the right bend and length of the long side of the "L" should slip through the slot when the latch is closed. Pic# 3 Drill a hole in the exposed "L" through the slot and you can padlock them up. Some thin foam rubber insulation stripping around the inside of the box top lip adds just enough to hold the latches tighter. Theft proof.... no.... but will slow the casual snatch and run guy down a bit. Maybe a lil better water proofing and less rattle. Got something to do today anyway. Hey, it's not a perfect world.... but it's all mine. :rotf: Did I mention it's cheap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted March 26, 2013 Share #18 Posted March 26, 2013 You might look at the latch/lock set up off a 1stGen saddle bag. I bought a set with the key from Skydoc to upgrade the ones on my Motorvation before it was stolen. Never got around to it, and my new2me trailer doesn't need upgrading. Don't ask... I don't know what the 'H' I did with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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