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Posted

Okay, followed the instructions found here on the web site that Freebird put for the Barnett Clutch.

 

Now here is the issue, can't squeeze the clutch lever at all.

Also, bike was in gear before removing the clutch plates, but now I can roll the bike and the green light for neutral is not on.

 

The only way I can squeeze the clutch lever is have Mechanic put some pressure on the "plunger" that sits in the bearing.

 

So anyone have any ideas as to what I need to do?

 

:confused24::confused24:

Posted

I don't have any definitive answer, but I think the first thing I would do is open the bleeder valve on the clutch " Slave cylinder " and see what happens. Can't hurt anything, and might help ???

Posted
I don't have any definitive answer, but I think the first thing I would do is open the bleeder valve on the clutch " Slave cylinder " and see what happens. Can't hurt anything, and might help ???

 

+1, the first time I took my clutch apart and worked on it, the handle was stiffer than a 16 year old boy in a porno store. Bled the clutch and all is good now.

Posted
Okay, followed the instructions found here on the web site that Freebird put for the Barnett Clutch.

 

Now here is the issue, can't squeeze the clutch lever at all.

Also, bike was in gear before removing the clutch plates, but now I can roll the bike and the green light for neutral is not on.

 

The only way I can squeeze the clutch lever is have Mechanic put some pressure on the "plunger" that sits in the bearing.

 

So anyone have any ideas as to what I need to do?

 

:confused24::confused24:

 

Mine did the same thing when we put it back together. If I remember correctly we had the things alinged incorrectly. Once that was corrected it worked perfect. Check this before you bleed the clutch.

Posted
Mine did the same thing when we put it back together. If I remember correctly we had the things alinged incorrectly. Once that was corrected it worked perfect. Check this before you bleed the clutch.

 

I'll second what Jay said, I can't remember who it was that had the same issue. It turned out that the disc's were not in the correct sequence and once it was installed inline right it worked out fine :happy34:

If you dont have a manual George let me know and I'll get you a copy of the pages with the installation diagrams.

Posted

Mine did the same thing when it was put back together.

I couldnt pull the clutch handle in for nothing...

Just bleed the clutch........(provided you did install everything correctly)

Put about 12k miles on it since.. no problems..:thumbsup2:

Guest KitCarson
Posted

Hey George.........You ain't no dummy....I would be real surprised if you put the disks in out of line.......just bleed the clutch.......mine did that first time we took it all apart to get to the clutch basket.......and again later after Yamaha worked on the baskets for me and I put the original clutch back in.....I sit at the lights in gear.......was working on my hand....so went back to the original set up. The new disks take up a bit more space.....puts back pressure on the clutch assemble.....let out a little fluid...works fine.

 

Better hurry up and get that thing fixed.....you are going for a ride this weekend.......going to be windy....better put some bricks in the saddle bags........:sign20:

Posted

When you put it all together you will see on the discs and plates that there is two notches in the bottom of the plate and discs. They need to be lined up with the two dots in the basket. I think though that you just didnt get the funky purple thingy (Pressure plate) lined up with the splines properly. I almost did that when I put mine together( I used the PCW) but i caught it when I was tightening the bolts.

 

here is the Tech I wrote for the PCW set up but really it goes together the same. Look at the part on the splines for the pressure plate.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10518

Posted

George, Im sure that the plates are out of line. If I remember correctly from when I did mine, there are three possible positions. Only 1 works. its been 4 years since I installed mine but if im right, you can get the info from the Barnett web site which dealt with the proper alignment. AND YOU DID USE NEW BOLTS..RIGHT????

Posted

A good way to see if the plates were installed out of alignment is when you pull the clutch plate gently sqeeze the clutch lever with your finger over the end of the push rod to see if there's any movement. If there's movement then the problem's in the plates. If you still have resistence then it could be elsewhere between the slave and the master. One other place to look is if you had the push rods out while working on the basket you may have put the rods back in with the rounded ends against the ball. This will cause the interior rod ends to bind. If you look at the rods, one end has a slightly flat surface. That's the end that goes against the ball.

Posted

Okay, I disassembled and made sure the 2 notches line up on the slot with the 2 marks. Put everything back and tightened to specs.

 

Let out some clutch fluid, but the clutch will still not engage.

Can still barely move the clutch lever and the fluid is almost empty in the reservoir. So now what do I do.

 

The clutch was working before except for the slipping that was occurring.

 

Almost ready to put the old pressure plate back in.

 

:(:(

Posted

Bleed the system while pushing in on the clutch rod.

I needed a helper to do this.

Bleed until you get a bubble or two out of it.

I think i had to run 4 or 5 resovoirs.

All's good now.

Posted

Okay, after talking with Jeff and him being the tutor :cool10:

 

I did not have to bleed the clutch, but just rotated the Barnett piece from bolt hole to bolt hole until the clutch basket engaged/disengaged.

Took out for short spin and checked for oil leaks (none so far).

 

That Barnett clutch is one touchy sucker :cool10:

 

Thanks all for your replies and to Jeff for tutoring me.

Next project will be next year, the shims need to be checked, by then should have close to 70,000 on the bike.

 

:7_2_104[1]:

Posted

 

I did not have to bleed the clutch, but just rotated the Barnett piece from bolt hole to bolt hole until the clutch basket engaged/disengaged.

Took out for short spin and checked for oil leaks (none so far).

 

That Barnett clutch is one touchy sucker :cool10:

 

:7_2_104[1]:

 

 

Yep, thats the problem I remember now......:bang head:

Sure glad you got it figured out. And to think you needed a 1st gen man to guide you..oh the shame of it all......:duck::duck::duck:

Posted
Guess if you 2nd gens knew how to fix it, it wouldn't have taken a 1st gen owner to help.:stirthepot:

:Laugh::Laugh::Laugh::Laugh::Laugh:

 

Margaret

If I remember right, as a former 1st Genner, we needed all the practice we could get. I got to be a pretty good wrench on my VR after a while but after owning a 2nd Gen for 3 years, I've forgotten pretty much everything about fixin my bike cause I haven't had to fix it! I really like the 1st Genners piping in on how to fix them once in a while cause it really keeps it green on what I had to go through. LOL!!! Brian

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