Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Five questions for the RSV Hannigan Trike types;

 

1. I got a pretty cheesy pamphlet with my trike that doesn't address anything technical, just everyday generic info. Does Hannigan have an 'Owners Manual for their Trikes?

 

2. Which wheel is the 'drive' wheel?

 

3. How do you adjust the rear suspension?

 

4. Can the Trike be towed at hwy speeds with a front wheel (off the ground) hitch if placed in neutral?

 

5. Are there any trike specific maintenance items? None are addressed in the pamphlet.

 

Bonus Question: How much wood would a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?? :confused24:

Posted

I will answer one question. You should not tow it by the front tire raised off the ground. The reason is the transmission is integrated into the engine and lubed, by the engine oil. The engine is not running and the transmission is not being properly lubed. This may result in premature transmission and/or engine failure. Now you can do what you want, and you may not have the aforementioned failure, but do you really want to roll the dice? That's $15,000 to $25,000 you are putting on the table. If you should decide to throw the dice a lot of people want to know if you are a winner or loser. Report back to us.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

if he could chuck wood he would be able to do about 2.3 chords

call me one day if you want. Not sure why more didn't answer your questions though

Posted (edited)
Five questions for the RSV Hannigan Trike types;

 

1. I got a pretty cheesy pamphlet with my trike that doesn't address anything technical, just everyday generic info. Does Hannigan have an 'Owners Manual for their Trikes?

The pamplet/manual I got didn't have much in it either but it'll answer some of your questions & maybe some you didn't think of.

2. Which wheel is the 'drive' wheel?

Nothing it it indicates which is the drive wheel. Maybe you could get both tires off the ground and see which wheel has the torque being applied.

 

3. How do you adjust the rear suspension?

My manual If you'd call it that says get the wheels of the ground then use a spanner wrench. While I was at the factory I asked the installer about this and he was able to turn the adjuster by hand with weight off the ground. Don't know if one could do that after the bike gets some miles on it.

 

4. Can the Trike be towed at hwy speeds with a front wheel (off the ground) hitch if placed in neutral?

Again nothing in the book on this but I'd 2nd not doing for reasons as previously stated.

5. Are there any trike specific maintenance items? None are addressed in the pamphlet.

Maintenance: Differential - Synthetic 80-90 wt oil every 2 yrs or 40,000 miles whichever comes first.

Brake fluid per the bikes scheduale with Dot 3 or Dot 4

Axles need nothing as they are lubed inside the boots at the factory

Swing arm pivots need greasing every 30,000 miles. check for perceptible play in the swing arm bearings. If loose the remove the cap & tighten the 1 1/2" nut to 32 foot lbs. reinstall the dust cap.

Check trunk hinges every 10,ooo miles

If equiped with their auxiliary fuel tank never run the auxiliary pump on an empty tank or damage could occur to the pump. also the cap is on a chain so be careful of paint damage.

Wheel lug nuts -- 80 ft lbs torque Brake- Brembo brakes

Steering knukles and tie rods are from a 1984 through and including 1987 Honda Civic CRX

Drive axles are custom made for Hannigan using Honda Civic car outer u-joints & 1984-1997 Ford "T" bird.

Differentials are from a 1990 Ford "T"bird . 7 1/2 ring gear

Pre 2015 model years use 15x7 wheels with 195/60 R15 tires

2012 & up use 16"x7" wheels with 195/55 R16 tires

 

Bonus Question: How much wood would a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?? :confused24:

Did this woodchuck chuck enough wood? :rotf:

Anyhow hope some of this was of some help to you and anyone else. All info was taken from the booklet I got from Hannigan when I picked up the coverted bike.

Larry

Edited by Carbon_One
Posted

Your wrench to adjust the shocks is in your new trunk.

 

I think the drive wheel is the right... find a spot of gravel and find out :-)

and yes to the rest of what Larry says

 

The wood chuck I gave you the answer already LOL

Posted
Your wrench to adjust the shocks is in your new trunk.

 

I think the drive wheel is the right... find a spot of gravel and find out :-)

and yes to the rest of what Larry says

 

The wood chuck I gave you the answer already LOL

No wrench came with my trike. As I said above the installer turned the adjuster by hand. New style shocks?

Larry

Posted

Nope, they forgot to give you the wrench ... ask Jim for one , he will mail it to you.

I will take a pic of mine fro you. OR maybe re-check your trunk kinda thin

Posted
No wrench came with my trike. As I said above the installer turned the adjuster by hand. New style shocks?

Larry

 

Larry, you have the new style shocks, your shock adjustment ring is threaded and is turned by hand, our older conversions have the stepped style adjusters and a spanner wrench is needed to turn them.

 

1st pic is my shock (old style)

2nd pic is Larry's shock (new style)

Posted

Allow me to make a small input (confession?) about the Hannigan aux tank. I find that it will drip a small puddle under the trike if I fill the aux tank up into the neck of the filler.

 

One more thing. I started hearing a sort of rattle noise from the right side under certain conditions. It sounded sort of like it might have been the passenger cup holder mounted on the right hand rail. When I wiggled the cup holder it sound enough like that was the problem that I assumed that was indeed it. I tightened it up as best I could and even used a small bungie cord to keep it from moving. The rattle continued as before. It was not a continuous rattle, just for a couple of seconds when accelerating usually. One afternoon as I was cleaning the bike I noticed the left fender front was solid mounted. The right fenders front edged had much more movement. I laid down, looked under the bike and found that the fender brace had lost a bolt where it connected to the frame. That allowed the end of the brace to rattle against its mounting point. I replaced the bolt and all was well. It pays to get down and do those checks now and then! :thumbsup2:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...