Guest tx2sturgis Posted February 6, 2008 #26 Posted February 6, 2008 For the record, I prefer my Rum and Coke mixed 60/40, but only when my ride is with a designated driver!
BMW Posted February 6, 2008 #27 Posted February 6, 2008 I'll Close Can of worms and open can of beer.... much better AHHHHHHHHHHHH! ice cold Heiny!
Condor Posted February 7, 2008 #28 Posted February 7, 2008 If you want MAXIMUM protection, go to a waterless coolant. http://www.evanscooling.com/main27.htm That waterless Evans coolant is interesting stuff. Looks like it's being run in quite a few different makes of bikes. Anyone ever used it, and does anyone know what the price of a gallon would be. I tried to find it on the sight but got impatient.....
flb_78 Posted February 7, 2008 #29 Posted February 7, 2008 $32.50 a gallon from this site. http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/shop.aspx?catid=6&parentid=0 I really like the fact that it doesn't boil until 370 degrees with NO PRESSURE!!!
Condor Posted February 7, 2008 #30 Posted February 7, 2008 $32.50 a gallon from this site. Ay Carumba!!! But I guess it's probably cheaper in the long run as they say it's a 'lifetime' treatment. I may have to try some in the '83.
barend Posted January 22, 2009 #31 Posted January 22, 2009 This is an older but very informative discussion. Given its age I figured it might be a good idea to clean the radiator, after draining the system and removing the radiator:fiddle:, it turned out to be clean as a wistle, no corrosion, no build up, nothing but clean aluminum.. Anyway, called the shop and they suggested i add "engine ice". Looked at this site and seems similar to what someone called "Motul" http://www.engineice.cc/faq.html Pre mixed, organic, safe for plants and pets; with the urge to go green by many this may be an option, though a lifetime product might be greener:innocent-emoticon:
GeorgeS Posted January 22, 2009 #32 Posted January 22, 2009 I drain, and flush the system with clean water twice. At least once a year. I'm more concerned about Corrosion in the Radiator, and system then cooling. My bike is 20 years old, so it needs a little extra TLC. I have never had a cooling problem with this engine. Even last summer running up thru Central Calif . when outside Temp was 112 Deg. F. I use the Orange Stuff, mix 50/50 - and Distilled water of course. ( No particular reason, other then GM says to use it in my Blazer, so thats what I buy ) However out here on West Coast, temps very seldom go below 25 deg. so, granted I don't have to worry about Frezzing. And I'm not rideing then anyway.
Condor Posted January 22, 2009 #33 Posted January 22, 2009 (edited) I drain, and flush the system with clean water twice. At least once a year. I'm more concerned about Corrosion in the Radiator, and system then cooling. My bike is 20 years old, so it needs a little extra TLC. I have never had a cooling problem with this engine. Even last summer running up thru Central Calif . when outside Temp was 112 Deg. F. I use the Orange Stuff, mix 50/50 - and Distilled water of course. ( No particular reason, other then GM says to use it in my Blazer, so thats what I buy ) However out here on West Coast, temps very seldom go below 25 deg. so, granted I don't have to worry about Frezzing. And I'm not rideing then anyway. I finally ended up using the same GM Orange stuff George, and for the same reason. Besides the price difference is about $10 bucks less per gallon than Amsoil. Flushed the entire system and it actually made a difference in the runing temp on the '83. Edited January 22, 2009 by Condor
GeorgeS Posted January 22, 2009 #34 Posted January 22, 2009 A comment, on the " Orange Stuff " When I bought my Blazer, had 15K on it so I decided to change the fluid. Guess What?? I actually read the owners manual. It explained that GM was useing the stuff, they call it DEX, something, cause its supposed to be more efficient at Transferring heat. ???? Who Knows ? Vehical was still under warrenty, so I figured best use the same stuff. Who knows ? Anyway I bought some for the truck, cost about 2 bucks a gallon more then the Average stuff. If it Is actually better then the green stuff, well, a few extra bucks for the Bike maintenance is no big deal. Anyway, I use it in both cars now, and both bikes. So Far, So Good.
friesman Posted January 22, 2009 #35 Posted January 22, 2009 I think the moral of the story is READ THE LABEL! Use the recommended mix as theyre the guys who have done the tests on their products. Also CHange your antifreeze every 3 years or so because it adds lubricant to your waterpump and the corrosion inhibitors break down over time as well. It wont freeze if you dont change it but clogged water jackets and rads are a PITA. (dont ask) Brian
bongobobny Posted January 22, 2009 #36 Posted January 22, 2009 Right now my biggest cooling system problem is finding a local place to recore radiators...
MAINEAC Posted January 23, 2009 #37 Posted January 23, 2009 My mechanic buddy turned me on to this stuff... No mixing involved... He says that's what they use at the track... http://www.mxbits.com/acatalog/Engine_Ice_medium.jpg Click here to go to website Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant offers superior performance in all types of water-cooled engines. Our initial research was primarily in the area of off road motorcycle performance. All of our research proved that Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant provided superior performance in most all conditions. Right from the outset, our product was able to reduce operating temperatures by as much as 50oF. So we figured, Why wouldn't it work in street bikes! So we began testing in various models of street bikes from the high-performance road race machines to the standard street bike and Engine Ice exceeded even our expectations. For the 2008 Road Racing season, Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing. We are so proud of our product and wanted to show the road race community how well Engine Ice performs in the most extreme conditions, we sponsored the Engine Ice 200 Mile Team Challenge as part of the Formula USA Road Race Series. The Engine Ice 200 Mile Team Challenge series was won by one of our sponsored teams, Edge Motorsports, a race team that realized the benefits of Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant and chose to use our product throughout the series. You can get just a partial list of the top caliber racers who are smart enough to choose Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant for their racing machines. Even if you are just a casual rider, we're confident that you will experience great results with Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant in your machine.
friesman Posted January 23, 2009 #38 Posted January 23, 2009 My mechanic buddy turned me on to this stuff... No mixing involved... He says that's what they use at the track... http://www.mxbits.com/acatalog/Engine_Ice_medium.jpg Click here to go to website Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant offers superior performance in all types of water-cooled engines. Our initial research was primarily in the area of off road motorcycle performance. All of our research proved that Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant provided superior performance in most all conditions. Right from the outset, our product was able to reduce operating temperatures by as much as 50oF. So we figured, Why wouldn't it work in street bikes! So we began testing in various models of street bikes from the high-performance road race machines to the standard street bike and Engine Ice exceeded even our expectations. For the 2008 Road Racing season, Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant is legal in AMA, CCS and FUSA road racing. We are so proud of our product and wanted to show the road race community how well Engine Ice performs in the most extreme conditions, we sponsored the Engine Ice 200 Mile Team Challenge as part of the Formula USA Road Race Series. The Engine Ice 200 Mile Team Challenge series was won by one of our sponsored teams, Edge Motorsports, a race team that realized the benefits of Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant and chose to use our product throughout the series. You can get just a partial list of the top caliber racers who are smart enough to choose Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant for their racing machines. Even if you are just a casual rider, we're confident that you will experience great results with Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant in your machine. It looks good for cooling but its only good to -27f that woulda messed up a coupla stored Scoots or cars around here when it got real cold. Brian
SilvrT Posted January 23, 2009 #39 Posted January 23, 2009 It looks good for cooling but its only good to -27f that woulda messed up a coupla stored Scoots or cars around here when it got real cold. Brian ok, so I'm wondering (coz I've never really seen it for real) ... but what happens to the antifreeze mix when the temp reaches it's "protection level". I mean, if it's good to minus 27 and the temp gets to minus 30, does it actually freeze? I suspect it maybe turns to a jelly form. In order to cause any real damage to the engine, I would think that ALL of the fluid within the engine has to freeze SOLID to the point that it has expanded significantly to either pop the frost plugs or crack something. I'm wondering at just what point does the antifreeze mix reach this state "below" it's "protective level"? anyone have theories on this?
SilvrT Posted January 23, 2009 #40 Posted January 23, 2009 For the record, I prefer my Rum and Coke mixed 60/40, but only when my ride is with a designated driver! Hey! that works for me! What's your choice of rum? I drink Demerara (Lemon Hart brand around these parts)
MAINEAC Posted January 23, 2009 #41 Posted January 23, 2009 ok, so I'm wondering (coz I've never really seen it for real) ... but what happens to the antifreeze mix when the temp reaches it's "protection level". I mean, if it's good to minus 27 and the temp gets to minus 30, does it actually freeze? I suspect it maybe turns to a jelly form. In order to cause any real damage to the engine, I would think that ALL of the fluid within the engine has to freeze SOLID to the point that it has expanded significantly to either pop the frost plugs or crack something. I'm wondering at just what point does the antifreeze mix reach this state "below" it's "protective level"? anyone have theories on this? My theory is the freeze plugs will pop and the engine will be saved... After all that is the function and purpose of the freeze plugs...
friesman Posted January 23, 2009 #42 Posted January 23, 2009 ok, so I'm wondering (coz I've never really seen it for real) ... but what happens to the antifreeze mix when the temp reaches it's "protection level". I mean, if it's good to minus 27 and the temp gets to minus 30, does it actually freeze? I suspect it maybe turns to a jelly form. In order to cause any real damage to the engine, I would think that ALL of the fluid within the engine has to freeze SOLID to the point that it has expanded significantly to either pop the frost plugs or crack something. I'm wondering at just what point does the antifreeze mix reach this state "below" it's "protective level"? anyone have theories on this? If you dont have any coolant or a very weak mixture when the temp drops you will freeze up and break any cast iron or aluminum block . IF you have a mixture thats about 35% or more( I am guessin here on the exact percentages) You should get a tester so you KNOW what temps your antifreeze is good for. The coolant/antifreeze will gel and start popping out frost plugs in some cases but it also stops coolant from flowing at all. Ive seen lots of engines seized as the owner overheated the engine in -35 weather because the coolant wont flow. the only way to get the coolant to a liquid again is to move it to a heated area and let the whole rig sit until it warms up and then inspect for leaks. the thaw can sometimes take a couple of days if has a cast block. Ive seen antifreeze testing good for -35 gel right close to that temp, and Ive seen -35 antifreez gel while travelling on the highway due to the effects of windchill, leaving people stranded. The car was warm when they left town but the highway speeds just cooled everything down so much it gelled, and the main indicator that that is gonna happen is that your heater stops throwing heat and start blowing cold. Brian
MAINEAC Posted January 23, 2009 #43 Posted January 23, 2009 Ive seen antifreeze testing good for -35 gel right close to that temp, and Ive seen -35 antifreez gel while travelling on the highway due to the effects of windchill, leaving people stranded. The car was warm when they left town but the highway speeds just cooled everything down so much it gelled, and the main indicator that that is gonna happen is that your heater stops throwing heat and start blowing cold. Brian That happens when the thermostat freezes shut and won't allow the the water/coolant to circulate and the engine overheats... In cars I've poured very hot water on the thermostat housing to fix that problem...
friesman Posted January 23, 2009 #44 Posted January 23, 2009 That happens when the thermostat freezes shut and won't allow the the water/coolant to circulate and the engine overheats... In cars I've poured very hot water on the thermostat housing to fix that problem... Actually here when it gets cold the antifreeze gels in the thin tubes in your radiator when youre at hiway speeds and stops all antifreeze flow from happening, thats why you see quite a few trucks and cars with a covering over the front of the grill. Once your rad is gelled youre stuck ,it wont thaw for a while. Brian
MAINEAC Posted January 23, 2009 #45 Posted January 23, 2009 Actually here when it gets cold the antifreeze gels in the thin tubes in your radiator when youre at hiway speeds and stops all antifreeze flow from happening, thats why you see quite a few trucks and cars with a covering over the front of the grill. Once your rad is gelled youre stuck ,it wont thaw for a while. Brian It's a chicken and egg thing... If the thermostat can freeze so can the radiator...I have seen previously open thermostats freeze up during engine operation... But if the thermostat is open the warm engine coolant will usually keep the radiator from freezing at above -30 F... Below that and all bets are off.. I ran a "winter front" on my truck for years and it wasn't there to keep the anti-freeze from freezing it was to allow the anti-freeze to get warm enough to produce heat inside the cab... The old Cummins and Detroit Diesels had a problem staying warm when it got below 0... Never had a problem with Cats as they always seemed to produce enough heat... Todays big trucks can't use a full winterfront because of the aftercoolers...
Condor Posted January 23, 2009 #46 Posted January 23, 2009 Survival in the grreat white north........
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