HF motorcycle lift table

[Jayceesfolly]

I am thinking of buying the HF lift and I am curious if anyone has a way of storing this unit on its side or end. I have a single car attached garage and we use it for a screened patio in the summer. So, as a consequence space is limited in my garage. The info in the HF website says it is just over 300 lbs and also has wheels to move it. I thought about tilting it, on it's side, up against the inside wall of the garage but am not sure how to do that safely. Anyone have any practical solutions for storing this?

 

Thanks

 

Jim

[CaptainJoe]

they're sucking you in with that 50 percent off coupon, eh?

[Flyinfool]

OK here is my thought. I do not have one so I am just going by the pic you have posted.

 

With the lift all of the way down drill a hole in the frame for a safety bolt or pin that will prevent it from opening up while leaning against the wall.

Set up a spacer about 5.5 inches (the width of a 2X6) out from the wall to act as a stop.

push the end of the lift that holds the front wheel up against your stop. Set up a small block and tackle (double pulley on top and single pulley on bottom) from a point on the wall higher than the length of the lift and usr that to hoist it up vertical and leaning against the wall. (You may need to adjust your spacer to accommodate the actual CG of the lift). Once it is standing up have a chain or bar across the lift to secure it in place.

 

Lifting it like this should not cause any issues, the jack will be in the normal upright position so there should be no leakage issues. If the table is strong enough to hold up your bike then it is more than strong enough to hold up its self.

[Eddie]

I just bought one for 261.00. They were on sale for 349.00 and I had a 25% off coupon they let me use. I think it is well built for the money. I'm here to tell you it's heavy for one person to lift . The wood crate it comes in weighs 50 lbs.

[MiCarl]

One thing to watch out for (not storage related).

 

Unless the floor is pretty rough the lift will be inclined to slide back when loading a heavy motorcycle. This is because the wheels are on the ramp end and there is little weight on the legs at the clamp end until the motorcycle is on.

 

A stop bolted to the floor or a block of wood to the wall will keep the lift in place.

 

Also, holes for the U-bolts for tying down are centered on the lift. They really should be moved close to the clamp so you can jack the free end of the motorcycle up to work on wheels and tires.

[Jasonc71]

I have 1 now for 2 years and I love it I have had no issues with it I did remove the screw in clean up and put a drive in clamp on it as far as storage of it you could store it on the side but it is very happy I actually put my bike on it jack it up and roll it over to the wall to store it and the bike. needless to say that is not the venture that is our smaller bike that I can load on there and roll the left with the bike on it. I also have cut a piece of plywood that fits on the left so I can jack the empty lift up and use it as a work service or table

[Jayceesfolly]

Jeff:

Thanks for your idea. I was thinking of doing the hoist thing but flipping it up on it's side rather than it's end. Not sure if the cylinder will leak but will find out. I have room on the right side of my garage under the TV to put it up on it's side. The TV and satellite box sit on a shelf about 4 1/2 ft. above the floor and there is room underneath it. I don't want to use the upper wall for the top pulley because that wall faces the kitchen and I don't want to disturb the studs in the kitchen wall, if I don't have to. I'm not sure if the trusses above are strong enough to support the top pulley. It is a ranch style house and the roof (in the garage) has very small roof trusses due to the shallow angle of the roof. But the lift is only 300 lbs so the trusses should hold that if I spread the load over 3 or 4 trusses. I think I will use a piece of 1/4 angle or steel pipe to run thru the trusses. The bad part is I will have to remove the drywall on the ceiling to install the angle or pipe. I am not going to start this project until the weather warms up a little because I do not have a heated garage and still is quite cold here in WNY.

 

Thanks for your thoughts, Jeff.

 

Joe:

I am going to buy it because the small bike lift I have now (Sears model) doesn't go high enough (about 15") for me to work on the bike comfortably. This lift goes 30" high so it brings it up to about waist high. My knees are getting bad and it is hard for me to get on the floor of the garage to work on the bike. I just thought it was a good price and it was sturdy enough to do oil changes, etc.

 

Carl, my garage floor is only 1 year old and extremely smooth. It has never had a car on it. It has wall to wall carpeting on it because we use it in the summer as a screened patio area for the front of the house. (My wife likes the outdoors so we have a screen house in the front [the garage] and rear of the house now.) I was thinking of using a 2x4 with a couple of long bolts in it and dropping it into a couple of holes drilled in the concrete floor to hold it in place. The holes should be inconspicuous in the carpeting. Maybe use 1/2 " x 6" bolts for pins. Just pick up the 2x4 when I'm not using it. Thanks for the note on the eyes, they should be up near the handle bars, I think.

 

Well, another project to put on my list! It's going to be a busy Spring.

 

Jim

[MiCarl]

I think the carpet will probably keep it from moving.

 

The fill plug on the hydraulic jack points up when the lift is horizontal. Shouldn't drip on its side, but might. Put something down to protect the carpet.

 

Of course if you're not using the garage to park in you could just raise the lift, throw a table cloth over it, and use it for beverage service.

[Jayceesfolly]

Carl:

I like your thinking!!

[CaptainJoe]

Of course we're gonna have to test that beverage service out... Any volunteers?

besides me of course?

[Yammer Dan]

Of course we're gonna have to test that beverage service out... Any volunteers?

besides me of course?

 

When we leaving Joe??

[CaptainJoe]

As soon as it warms up...LOL

 

Unlike LEO3WHEEL ,I don't think spring is here yet!

 

There is no chance what so ever of me riding to the state I was born, " Pennsylvania" in the month of February.

[Jayceesfolly]

It's going to be 45 * F here tomorrow. Hoping some of the "white stuff" will melt.

 

I always have a little something to wet your whistle. Here is the "booze locker", it's a little empty right now because we had a party (41 guests) a couple of weeks ago and I haven't restocked. But your welcome to stop anytime you are in the area and crack open the door to the "booze locker". Also have a well stocked liquor cabinet for those that are not into beer and wine.

 

I am thinking about having a M & E here this summer, probably late August or early Sept.

 

Jim

[Phoneman1981]

Hello: Fellow member, close friend and riding buddy Graderman46 purchased a HF lift table a year ago. He was soon moving so he dropped it off at my work place. I have used it a few times. Most of the time it stays cranked up and is used as a workbench. Hoping we can get together in the early spring work on our bikes.

[Jayceesfolly]

Eddie:

 

Thanks for the heads up about the weight of the shipping crate. I took a friend with me to help load the lift into the back of a pickup and it took four of us to lift it up and slide it in the back of the truck. When I got to the house, I opened the container in the truck and unloaded it in pieces. I also bought a more substantial wheel chock for the front of the lift. That little screw thing looked flimsy on the display model, so I bought a bigger and heavier chock.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the weight.

 

Jim

[rickardracing]

For those that have one, how well does it hold the front wheel? The Handy's have a U-shaped stop that holds it pretty good. I noticed the HF just has an open face plate. Does the tire want to move left or right once in the clamp?

[MiCarl]

It holds it just fine.

 

CON: Many bikes (including the RSV) need to be tied down BEFORE you can let go of the motorcycle. This is because the side stand extends beyond the lift platform. Likewise you have to some ballet taking the motorcycle off. Of course if you have a helper this is a minor issue.

 

With an L shaped clamp or a wheel choc you can let go of the motorcycle to work the tie downs. I would be a bit concerned about the yank required to pull it out of a choc.

 

PRO: The stock clamp is low enough you can put a motorcycle on backward without worrying about pipes and bags. This is great for working on front tire/wheel/forks. Most modern cruisers and touring bikes will not go on lifts with an L shaped clamp backward because pipes and bags hit. ****WARNING**** Putting a motorcycle on backward requires a bit of skill. In school they drilled us on it for days, then pretty regularly after we mastered it. You definitely want a helper or two if you do this.

 

In my shop I have two lifts. Most of my work is done on an air lift with a big L shaped clamp. The harbor freight lift is generally reserved for doing front end work or small motorcycles.

[rickardracing]

Well Carl, I may have to reconsider buying the HF lift as to a maybe to a probably not. I really would like one, but it sounds like more of a pain than what it would be worth for my use. I do have the HF lift that has the forks that lift like a hilo. Works good. Needs a few modifications to stiffen it up a bit, but all in all, works for most of what I need.

[rickardracing]

This is the one I was talking about.

[lonestarmedic]

Here is my lift with a U.S.General wheel chock. I cut the back off, redrilled the chock and

then fastened to the lift with flathead bolts. It has held a Harley Electraglide and my 1986 VR without a problem. The chock position allows for my small jack to raise the rear and drop the tire out. Otherwise the centerstand sits on the dropout panel. It is on its 2nd year and very stable. I have a yardstick with a magnet on one end. Stick it on the chock for a cetering guide and run right up. I can jack the front up, remove the chock parts and then remove the front tire. The chock really did not move the weight bias at all. I think the tire position is forward by only a couple inches. I did check the weight bias before bolting things down.

 

JB

[Phoneman1981]

I also modified Graderman46's lift exactly like Lonestarmedic did!!!

[lonestarmedic]

Here is a picture of the way I cut and used the chock. It is very secure. Almost too secure!! I have to work to get the bike back out. Got to really pull back and yank. It usually take a couple times. Kind of compress the front forks and use the spring back of the suspension to help get the weight moving.

 

Notice where I cut the chock. I left enough for all of the adrusting holes to be retained. And I cut the rear at a taper to avoid having a sharp corner. Would hate to be off on my aim going up and hit a sharp corner!

 

Warning for all - The lift is narrow! So watch your step or you will miss the sides going up! I have included pictures of a couple side wing extensions. Not sure which I will use but I intend to add something for my feet when I go up.

 

Also, if the lift will not go up, it may be low on oil. Sometimes shipped nearly dry. Add through the rubber plug when DOWN.

 

If it still will not raise the bike, then the pressure relief is set too low. And it can be adjusted. There is a place to get to it and screw it in a bit. I will need to get pictures of the spot and post them. My lift will raise with the bike and a person on the bike.

 

Use the front lockdown screws to hold the lift stable to the floor. I contact to the floor then give about 1.5 turns further to get the weight off the front casters.

 

NEVER NEVER move the lift on its casters with a bike on and raised. However I have done so when down. But I have 4 tie down straps retaining the bike when I do so.

 

I use the self-retracting ratchet straps on the lift. Keeps the table area neat. Harbor Freight also has packs of soft strap loops if needed.

 

JB

Edited February 17, 2013 by lonestarmedic

[Phoneman1981]

Thanks for sharing. I too have discovered some of the same issues you have in regards to the lift being narrow and also having issues getting the bike back out of the chock when finished. I like the wooden side extentions that you put on your lift. Your safety suggestions are also very helpful. It made me a little nervous when I first started using the lift table. However having the bike raised up makes some functions so much nicer, sure beats bending over or laying on the ground.

[Guest scarylarry]

After reading all the do's and dont's, I think I'll stay with my carbon one lift and floor jack..

 

I have old plastic milk crate I just sit on, slip the handle out the jack so I can walk around with bumping into that...

 

Seems to risky of dropping a bike when you are doing it by yourself...

[lonestarmedic]

ScarryL.-

I agree that there is a lot of learning for a lift. However, it probably is not nearly as dangerous as I make out. Once outfitted with the wings on the side and a good chock it becomes as easy as riding up a trailer with a wide drop gate. Actually easier as the lift is only 6" off the ground.

 

I tend to warn for the worst so people avoid my mistakes. However, I too use a floor lift a lot. Depends on what I want to do. For you 2nd Gen folks, the Carbon1 stand is perfect to change oil etc.

 

Once I get the wings on where I like them I will post again. I want them to also follow the ramp. Reason- If you are vertically challenged, you can lose touch with the floor at a point. If you are walking the bike up the ramp, not good. Best thing I ever saw was a garage with a recess in the floor for a lift. Talk about an easy thing to use.

 

JB