Got a FLAT need help!

[cabreco]

So I have been leaking air in my rear Kenda tire for a few week. At first I found the valve was leaking so I changed the core. No leak there BUT I was still losing air. Today I found it. A small hole DEAD CENTER in the tread.

 

Ok so to STOP the leak I used a regular auto plug (don't yell at me I'm not trusting my life to a $2 plug lol)

 

I have to take it to the Yamaha dealer who will fix it using a PLUGPATCH. To cut the repair cost in half I need to remove the rim myself ( I figure I will use this opportunityu to inspect & change the fluid in the rear)

 

My question is this:

 

1. Does anybody have a how to write up on removing the rear wheel?

2. Is there a preferred fluid to use back there?

[Eck]

This information is for a 2nd gen but it should be really close to doing same on the 1st gen.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263

 

75-90 Synthethic gear lube works great in rear hub.

[Guest tx2sturgis]

So I have been leaking air in my rear Kenda tire for a few week. At first I found the valve was leaking so I changed the core. No leak there BUT I was still losing air. Today I found it. A small hole DEAD CENTER in the tread.

 

Ok so to STOP the leak I used a regular auto plug (don't yell at me I'm not trusting my life to a $2 plug lol)

 

I have to take it to the Yamaha dealer who will fix it using a PLUGPATCH. To cut the repair cost in half I need to remove the rim myself ( I figure I will use this opportunityu to inspect & change the fluid in the rear)

 

My question is this:

 

1. Does anybody have a how to write up on removing the rear wheel?

2. Is there a preferred fluid to use back there?

 

Is a Kenda tire worth patching? How much tread is left on it?

 

Wow.

 

I wont even patch an expensive tire and then re-use it. ..by the time you jack up the bike, remove the muffler, remove the wheel, dismount the tire, patch the tire, remount the tire, reinstall the wheel, replace the muffler, and lower the bike, and then your life is riding on an 'iffy' repair, and the costs involved if any of that is done by a shop...its not always a good deal. Especially if the rear tire has more than say, 5000 miles on it.

 

Unless that tire still has the little 'nubbies' on the main part of the tread, I'd be throwing it out.

 

Just my 2 cents...of course.

 

Edited February 12, 2013 by tx2sturgis

[cabreco]

Is a Kenda tire worth patching? How much tread is left on it?

 

Unless that tire still has the little 'nubbies' on the main part of the tread, I'd be throwing it out.

 

 

Just my 2 cents...of course.

 

 

The tire is new, it is a year old with mayby 800 miles on it. I replaced the front at the end of the season with a Kenda just to match it. Had I known I would need to pull off the rear I would have replaced them both with Dunlops.

 

My gen 1 although it only has 15K original miles will eventually be replaced once I move out of Virginia. (I refuse to pay personal property tax do I have historic plates)

 

Once I get to Tennessee I'll be looking to get an Ultra Glide. So the tire replacement was based on only using it for a few years.

[bongobobny]

Yah! What Tex said!

 

You need to remove the right muffler, or at least loosen it enough to get it out of the way for the axle to go out all the way. You may or may not want to do the same to the left muffler depending on what kind of tool you use to loosen the nut. To loosen the nut you have to remove the cotter pin. You also have to unbolt the rear barke caliper. There is a pinch bolt on the swing arm on the right side that also secures the rear axle and prevents it from rotating. Yuo will have to jack up the bike enough to get the tire out once the axle is removed. Pay close attention to the spacer on the right side and where it goes, if you put it on wrong when reassembling the brake caliper will bind. I use a phillips screwdriver blade inserted into the hole in the axle on the right side to pull the axle out. If you hammer on the right side to get it started use only a rubber or brass hammer or a block of wood to prevent damage to the threads...

[bongobobny]

PS it's a good time to remove the differential (4 nuts) and drain the differential oil and change, and more important remove the axle and grease the splines. You will need to push the rubber boot back to align the axle back into the splines...

[cabreco]

Yah! What Tex said!

 

You need to remove the right muffler, or at least loosen it enough to get it out of the way for the axle to go out all the way. You may or may not want to do the same to the left muffler depending on what kind of tool you use to loosen the nut. To loosen the nut you have to remove the cotter pin. You also have to unbolt the rear barke caliper. There is a pinch bolt on the swing arm on the right side that also secures the rear axle and prevents it from rotating. Yuo will have to jack up the bike enough to get the tire out once the axle is removed. Pay close attention to the spacer on the right side and where it goes, if you put it on wrong when reassembling the brake caliper will bind. I use a phillips screwdriver blade inserted into the hole in the axle on the right side to pull the axle out. If you hammer on the right side to get it started use only a rubber or brass hammer or a block of wood to prevent damage to the threads...

 

 

Good thing it's "off season" or the additional $50 for them to remove it from the bike sounds like a bargain! But it's a good opportunity to learn & replace other things while I'm at it.

[Flyinfool]

Plan on pulling off both mufflers. The right has to come off so that you can slide out the axle and the left has to come off if you are going to use a socket and a torque wrench to reinstall. You need the back end of the bike way up high to get the wheel out from under.

 

There is a thread somewhere on how to remove the rear wheel if you do not have a lift. That is the method that I have to use.

[Condor]

If you were using Ride-On this would be a non-issue.....

[cabreco]

If you were using Ride-On this would be a non-issue.....

 

I thought you shouldn't use sealers in motorcycle tires?

 

Can this be used AFTER the patch plug is installed?

[Flyinfool]

OH BOY!!!!!

Using a tire sealant ranks right up there with asking about oil, tires, politics and religion.

 

Give me a minute to get my pop corn popped............

[rougeray]

I have never been to a shop that will patch a tire. They don't want the liability and I can't blame them.

[MidlifeVenture]

 

There is a thread somewhere on how to remove the rear wheel if you do not have a lift. That is the method that I have to use.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1393

[FuzzyRSTD]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515

 

Avon Venom tires always. Get them at Dennis Kirks for the best price with shipping. All the information you need is in the Tech Libraries here for all the work you need to do while the rear wheel is removed. Grease the gear splines and fingers in the wheel rubber for sure, and drive shaft splines.

Fuzzy :thumbsup2:

[Flyinfool]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1393

 

Thats the one.

I was at work and did not have time to find it. Thanks.

[cabreco]

I have never been to a shop that will patch a tire. They don't want the liability and I can't blame them.

 

That's what I figured as well.

When I called Sunrise Yamaha in Norfolk Va, I told them I did not want to trust my life to a $2 automobile plug I pushed in & was looking to buy a new tire. THEY suggested the patch/plug if the tire is good. I told them it only had 800 miles on it. (it STILL has the little nipples) I asked them how well will it hold, the said the stand behind it 100% & will guarantee it.

[greg_in_london]

I agree with plugging the tyre - it is a well established system and ther is no reason to expect it to cause any problems. Obviously don't ride the tyre down to the canvas, but you wouldn't do that anyway...

 

I'd be happy to use a plug from the outside, but I understand others don't like them and that's their choice and they're entitled to it.

 

Personally I wouldn't take the left hand silencer off though. If it does not come off the collector box easily, do not wiggle it to force it because as they corrode, the stubs weaken and you can break them off completely. If it slides off easily, then you're okay. That's a judgement call and replacements are much more readily available on your side of the pond than here.

 

You can use goop or whatever it is sold as over there in motorcycle tyres.

[cabreco]

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1393

 

 

Scott,

Pulling of the front wheel again? Although it's a great alternative if you don't have a jack, I don't want to make more work for myself.

 

Since I can support the bike using the front crash bars, I presume the rear crash bars can also suppot the bike.

 

I think I'll just take off the seat & use my engine crane to lift the back of the bike to get the tire off.

 

unless someone sees a problem?

[aharbi]

I've used the "rope" tire plugs several times on rear tires and have run the life of the tire without any problems. Just use lots of glue and wait 30 minutes before riding again. With the exception of a sidewall plug has anyone every had one fail? I don't mean you heard about your sisters husbands ex-brother in laws nephew had it happen to him. Did you? Now the plug & go's "mushrooms" with their worthless CO² cartridges have failed on me several times, I threw them out and their little CO² bombs long ago.

 

Now a front tire. I'll plug to get home and replace ASAP.

 

rope plug, new tire 300 miles (not the Venture. a sport bike, I average 6k miles for the rear regardless which better brand tire) make. Why is it always the new tire?

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk100/aharbi/Motorcycle/VstromTireNail.jpg

after 50 miles

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk100/aharbi/Motorcycle/VstromPlugged50mi.jpg

after 700 miles

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk100/aharbi/Motorcycle/VstromPlugged700mi.jpg

[CaptainJoe]

I've had the rope type fail on my fourwheeler.

 

the problem is when you push the file thru to create a clean surface , you may or may not be following the origional hole. Would probably be ok in a pinch (at low speeds) but I would not feel comfortable till the tire was taken off and vulcanized /patched from the inside. IMHO

 

never patch or plug a sidewall, thats asking for trouble. IMHO

[cabreco]

I've had the rope type fail on my fourwheeler.

 

the problem is when you push the file thru to create a clean surface , you may or may not be following the origional hole. Would probably be ok in a pinch (at low speeds) but I would not feel comfortable till the tire was taken off and vulcanized /patched from the inside. IMHO

 

never patch or plug a sidewall, thats asking for trouble. IMHO

 

In any case I personally am not willing to risk my butt on a $2 plug.

I was also toying with replacing both tires since I have a parts bike with 2 good rims on it which I plan to polish & repaint. My biggest fear is a scare with my wife onboard. That might scare her off for good!

 

My bike had Dunlop 491 on it before I swapped it over to Kenda Kruz. My parts bike has Metzlers (which are too old). So what tires would you guys recommend for the Gen 1?

 

My biggest concern is comfort, ride, & wet handling. I don't usually ride in rain but cruising, sometime you don't have a chioce. The wife & I don't put too many miles on the bike but I would like to make sure she is comfortable.

Edited February 15, 2013 by cabreco