Like to make a ramp for my trailer.

[GolfVenture]

I have a 4 ft by 8 ft trailer with 3ft sides. I would like to make a ramp so I can drive my 1st Gen MK2 up onto it. The ramp will probably be 3 ft by 8 ft. The bed of the trailer is 22 inchs high. I thought of using 3/4 in plywood as the ramp, but I need to beef it up to handle the weight of the Venture plus my weigth of 180 lbs plus some for fulled loaded trunk and side bags. I can carry the ramp on the outside of the side of the trailer. Also there are 6 holes at the back of the metal frame extending out so I can push a 1/2 in metal rod through it in that way I can devise something to hook the ramp to the trailer so the ramp will not fall off the trailer while loading and unloading.

 

Any suggestions as to how to beef the 3 by 8 ramp. Also anyone know a way to calculate if 8 feet ramp is long enough so the bottom of the Venture will have enough clearance where the ramp hooks to the trailer assuming the end of the ramp will be flush to the trailer bed.

 

Any suggestions on the ramp.

 

Or a better solution.

[dacheedah]

I would consider metal frame with expanded metal so you are not catching so much air. 8' seems long , is the trailer frame level to the ground??

[billmac]

Is a 8' trialer long enough?

[GolfVenture]

Is a 8' trialer long enough?

 

No, but the end of the bike can stick out for I can eliminate the back part of the trailer easily and I could put a bar just in front of the bikes back rest connecting the 2 sides to give the 2 sides support.

 

I can also raise the trailer jack to eliminate the bike clearance, as the trailer is hooked to the van hitch.

 

Maybe my machinest friend could make me a sturdy metal ramp.

[2WHEELSFORME]

I used a 2x10 eight foot long. Beveled the ground edge and put a alum adapter on the other end that connects to the bed of the trailer just right. I do not ride it up but rather motor it up while walking beside it. A the trailer you just have to step up to the bed to continue. Cheap and has been working good on several diff bikes for years. No problem with bottoming out.

[brewser23]

Heres a link to the DIY cruisers page on Delphi This might be what you are looking fot. http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/mb/at.asp?webtag=DIYCruisers&guid=7967874A-E599-47D3-8009-42BDA8FDCA15&frames=no

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Three feet wide is NOT wide enough for riding the bike up nearly 2 feet, not to mention backing it down. Your feet will easily loose their grip and you could topple over. Not a good result.

 

And, bare wood makes a poor surface for traction...especially if there is ANY moisture present. As you walk the bike backwards, down the ramp, you are totally dependent on the front brake to control your descent, and if it slips, you are in trouble...fast!

Traction coatings or tape are available, of course.

 

I would buy, make (or have made), a steel or aluminum ramp, able to support 1200 pounds, reinforced, and with a grippy, self cleaning surface, such as expanded metal or small metal slats arranged in a ladder fashion. It should be at least 4 or 5 feet wide.

 

Also, 'break-over' angle is a real concern on these bikes..so make sure the angle is shallow enough. And the approach to the ramp, when ridng up, or walking it back down, means your feet may not be able to even touch the ramp as the front tire will raise the entire bike beyond your legs ability to stabilze the bike, as the bike begins its climb, or as the bike reaches the ground when unloading.

 

Think ALL of this through. I have personally seen large bikes tumble during loading and unloading, and its not a pretty sight.

 

If you watch these videos, you will see what doesnt work well, and have a better idea of what can happen. Just be careful!

 

And yes, your trailer will be lower than these examples.

 

 

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[/ame] Edited February 12, 2013 by tx2sturgis

[midnightventure]

I use 3/4 " plywood with 2 2x3s screwed and glued up the center. The ends are beveled to give a smooth entry. Then I have 2 short 2x3s with a 3/4" slot cut at an angle that I slip over the outside edge about half way up to support the outside edge. I also have 2 holes drilled in the lip of the trailer with matching holes in the top of the ramp that I drop 1/4" bolts into. Very secure. My trailer is not near 22" high so keep that in mind.

http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad166/midnightventure/Doolittle%20Trailer/CIMG1270.jpg

http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad166/midnightventure/Doolittle%20Trailer/CIMG1269.jpg

http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad166/midnightventure/Doolittle%20Trailer/CIMG1266.jpg

Edited February 12, 2013 by midnightventure

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I used a 2x10 eight foot long. Beveled the ground edge and put a alum adapter on the other end that connects to the bed of the trailer just right. I do not ride it up but rather motor it up while walking beside it. A the trailer you just have to step up to the bed to continue. Cheap and has been working good on several diff bikes for years. No problem with bottoming out.

 

You have done this while loading a 900 pound touring bike? Or are we talking about smaller motorcycles? And how high was the trailer bed off the ground? You did this solo? Yeah, 2 guys might be able to pull this off...but for one guy, its not gonna be safe OR easy.

 

[dacheedah]

its alot safer to find a small drop off or a ditch to back up to. Have done this with the truck as opposed to a ramp.

[2WHEELSFORME]

You have done this while loading a 900 pound touring bike? Or are we talking about smaller motorcycles? And how high was the trailer bed off the ground? You did this solo? Yeah, 2 guys might be able to pull this off...but for one guy, its not gonna be safe OR easy.

 

 

You are wrong! I have done it prob 25 times alone and all have been safe and easy and with large bikes. Venture, VTX 1800 and Volusia. The angle is not so steep that the wood has a traction problem, front brake works just fine. Trailer not as high as a pick up truck but much higher than that cargo trailer in the previous pics.

 

[Guest tx2sturgis]

You are wrong! I have done it prob 25 times alone and all have been safe and easy and with large bikes. Venture, VTX 1800 and Volusia. The angle is not so steep that the wood has a traction problem, front brake works just fine. Trailer not as high as a pick up truck but much higher than that cargo trailer in the previous pics.

 

 

This was on flat ground?

 

Years ago I loaded the Ultra on a trailer that was about 20-24 inches high, many times, and it was NEVER easy. I guess you figured out a 'trick'. I had trouble with reaching and controlling the 'far side' handgrip as the bike climbed the narrow ramp, with me beside it, standing on the ground, so my technique involved riding it up the ramp, and it never felt safe, OR easy.

 

In fact one time, during some wet weather, (the metal was slick) when I made it up the ramp, and applied the front brake, the bike kept going, (front wheel locked) and with a small wheel chock, the front tire and wheel rode over the front lip and the bike fell forward and hung up on the frame. Alone, it took me an hour to jack the bike up, then wedge boards in, attach straps, then jack the bike, move the straps, wedge boards, then finally was able to pull the bike back enough to get the front tire back on the trailer deck.

 

I have also witnessed an aquaintence drop a HD sportster when trying to ride it up a ramp, and the frame hungup on the breakover. If that happens on a larger bike, at 22 inches in the air, it could be a bad situation for a person with no help.

 

There are many bike-loading solutions on the market, to help address this exact situation. If loading a bike on a trailer or pickup bed at 2 to 3 feet on flat pavement was 'easy', there would be no need for them.

 

If the OP's trailer height was say, 12 inches, then I would not be as skeptical.

 

Next time you load a large bike using your 2x10, how about having someone take some video or pictures? I'd like to see how you do it. And maybe measure the trailer deck height. Flat ground loading, of course. Backing the trailer in a culvert or up to a curb doesnt count. Heck, even *I* can do it that way!

 

 

 

Edited February 12, 2013 by tx2sturgis

[CaptainJoe]

When you back a bike down a ramp... I always put in first gear and turn engine off.

 

 

that way you have essentially both a front brake and a rear brake at your disposal (just let the clutch out) .

 

 

24" high is pretty high to be loading a 900 lb. bike... BE CAREFUL!

[CaptainJoe]

I have a 4 ft by 8 ft trailer with 3ft sides. I would like to make a ramp so I can drive my 1st Gen MK2 up onto it. The ramp will probably be 3 ft by 8 ft. The bed of the trailer is 22 inchs high. I thought of using 3/4 in plywood as the ramp, but I need to beef it up to handle the weight of the Venture plus my weigth of 180 lbs plus some for fulled loaded trunk and side bags. I can carry the ramp on the outside of the side of the trailer. Also there are 6 holes at the back of the metal frame extending out so I can push a 1/2 in metal rod through it in that way I can devise something to hook the ramp to the trailer so the ramp will not fall off the trailer while loading and unloading.

 

Any suggestions as to how to beef the 3 by 8 ramp. Also anyone know a way to calculate if 8 feet ramp is long enough so the bottom of the Venture will have enough clearance where the ramp hooks to the trailer assuming the end of the ramp will be flush to the trailer bed.

 

Any suggestions on the ramp.

 

Or a better solution.

 

 

1. Measure the lowest portion on your bike under engine.

2. Measure from center of front tire to center of back tire (say 64). Divide 64 by 2 giving 32.

 

3. Go to the top end of your ramp and mark the 32" in the trailer and mark 32" on the ramp with tape

4. Take a straight 2x4 at least 64" and mark the center and 32" from center on both sides.

5. Then place center of the 2 x 4 at top of ramp and adjust till you have an equal distance at both ends (two people works better)

5. If this distance isnt at least 1" smaller than the lowest portion of your bike, you need to decrease angle.

 

 

if your ramps angle need to be lessened you will have to:

A. place something under bottom of ramp

B. place the rear wheels of your trailer at the bottom of a slanted driveway

C. raise the front of your trailer with the trailer jack (good for a couple inches)

or a combination of all three...

 

wARNING: MUST BE HITCHED TO VEHCLE AT ALL TIMES!

 

You could also use a protractor and determine the maximum degree allowable:

using the above dimensions draw a 64" line on concrete floor.

measure vertically 9" from center and draw line(perpendicular to first line).

then draw a line from top of the 9" line to each end of the horizontal 64" line.

take protractor and set to the angle on top.

place protractor on trailer and hold against ramp.

if the ramp is at a steeper angle (see lessen ramp angle)

 

I dont have my bike or i could actually measure the distances and heights, and, calculate the max angle,,, Its in the shop getting a new rear shock... athough there may be a height difference between a 1st gen and a 2nd gen...

 

P.S.

the back of my toy hauler has a swing down ramp probably 6'H x 5'W and cant be any thicker than 1 1/2"

 

Wonder if they just glued (2) pieces of 3/4" plywood together??? After all plywood is strongr than a standard board of the same thickness...

Edited February 12, 2013 by CaptainJoe

[Flyinfool]

If you can post some dimensions I can calculate the ramp length needed to get up on your trailer without high centering.

 

Trailer height

Wheel base

Front tire diameter

Rear tire diameter.

Distance from ground to lowest point near center of bike with you on the bike.

 

Based on what I think these numbers are, an 8 foot ramp will be plenty long to not high center.

Edited February 12, 2013 by Flyinfool

[oldfaithful]

Ouucccch. Watching those videos made me cringe every time. I had a friend in college do the exact same thing as the guy in the last video. That was hard to watch too. You just can't catch a 600 lb bike when it decides to exit left.

 

My bike trailer is about 16" from the ground and has a fairly soft suspension. I built it for my bikes and I've used it many times over the last 20 years. I typically use a large thick piece of plywood (about 3' x 4') to be sure I have a place to put my feet and don't have to worry about missing the ramp. Yes, it will bend and bow when loading a full size bike but it's never broken. While loading the XVZ, the trailer suspension compresses, the little truck lifts a bit, and the 16" gap becomes ~10" That said, I never ride my bike onto the ramp...slowly walked on every time.

 

Actually, if my memory serves me correctly today...I think I built that trailer shortly after watching the aforementioned friend try to load his Yamaha Seca into the back of the moving truck!!!

[Flyinfool]

I did notice one common thing in all of those loading fails, and a few more that popped up while I was on YouTube.

 

EVERY bike fell to the left.

Edited February 12, 2013 by Flyinfool

[CaptainJoe]

I did notice one common thing in all of those loading fails, and a few more that popped up while I was on YouTube.

 

EVERY bike fell to the left.

 

 

Comeon Jeff, you know politics aren't allowed on this site....

 

Although, had they been a little more conservative...

[Guest tx2sturgis]

 

EVERY bike fell to the left.

 

 

Comeon Jeff, you know politics aren't allowed on this site....

 

Although, had they been a little more conservative...

 

Dang Democrat Bike Droppers....

 

[GolfVenture]

Thank You all for your suggestions and safety issue.. Hows this for a solution.

 

I currently have a set of these, and I could purchase another set for $52.80 that includes a 20% coupon and a 10% sales tax.

 

 

These loading ramps allow you to roll your ATVs, dirt bikes and appliances up into your truck bed with safety and ease! The sturdy steel construction of these ramps allows handles up to 1,000 lbs. to be loaded into your truck, van or trailer. Reduce risk of injury from lifting heavy objects by using these steel loading ramps over risky, make-shift plank ramps!

• 6 ft. long, 9" wide 14 guage steel U shape channel.
  
• 1000 lb. combined capacity (500 lbs each).
  
• Ideal for trucks, vans and trailers
  

As I said I could buy a 2nd set, giving me 4 pieces of 6 ft sections.

 

 

For the center ramp for the tires, I could bolt two back to back thinking that would bring the capacity up to the 1000 lbs capacity. The venture's wheel base is 63.5 inches where the ramp is 72 inches.

 

The U shape will keep the tires in the channel.

 

The floor of the U shape has about 80 sharpe edges from the retangular cut outs that will provide allow the tires to grip and not slip.

 

The other 2 ramps can be spaced apart so my feet can provide stability as I slowly walk/ride the bike up the ramp.

 

The feet ramps will place the U shape channel down lifting my feet 2 inches higher than the tire ramps providing me more stability condsidering that my Venture has Markland Driver Floorboards.

 

On the foot ramp I could put some of that stairs, sandpaper, adheisive like stuff on the surface so my feet won't slip.

 

Then I could put 2 or 3 metal cross strips on the bottom connecting all 3 ramps so the ramps do not move out on me.

 

The last thing to consider is will the Venture get high centered. The trailer tongue could be raised up some being that the trailer will be hooked to the vehicle hitch. The question is how high will the tongue be raised for the venture to clear. And then is the trailer bed angle be at an unsafe angle as I dismount the venture onto its side stand. With a 2nd person, a wedge could be placed behind the rear wheel. But I need to a way to keep the Venture from possible rolling back if I'm by myself. Hmmm. I could take a 2 x 4, 6 inch long and cut a 3 inch wedge at each end and position it so that as the rear wheel goes over the high center of this wedge the front tire is up against the front wall. This would prevent the Venture from rolling back as I dismount. Of course this wedge needs to be removable when I unload the Venture. And I'll need to remember to raise the tongue to the same height. But then I need to make sure I'm on a level surface..hmmm..

 

Your Thoughts?

[rickardracing]

You are wrong! I have done it prob 25 times alone and all have been safe and easy and with large bikes. Venture, VTX 1800 and Volusia. The angle is not so steep that the wood has a traction problem, front brake works just fine. Trailer not as high as a pick up truck but much higher than that cargo trailer in the previous pics.

 

 

 

All this with a 2x10??? I would think a 900 pound bike would bow this like crazy. I could be wrong. You guys need to listen to Brian, I may not agree with him all the time, but I do respect his experiance. Plus the only one that looked even close to being safe was midnightventures pics. Hopefully I never need to trailer my bike anywhere. If I do, I will be renting a lowboy trailer DESIGNED to load and carry motorcycles.

[Flyinfool]

I used to drive a 69 Pontiac Catalina up two 2x12 wood ramps to get it on the trailer. Yes they bowed a lot, but they never broke. I eventually got some proper steel ramps.

[dacheedah]

I personally like the idea of a drop bed trailer, they pin the back to the sides, unpin and ratchet the front down and then the back goes down. Must be unhitched from tow vehicle.

 

or a trailer where the rear axle is unpinned and rotates up to drop the bed to the ground at the back. The cool thing about that is you don't need a jack to change the tire.

 

For a safer, lightweight ramp I would suggest a metal frame with expanded metal welded ontop.

[Snaggletooth]

 

6 ft. long, 9" wide 14 guage steel U shape channel.

1000 lb. combined capacity (500 lbs each).

Ideal for trucks, vans and trailers

 

As I said I could buy a 2nd set, giving me 4 pieces of 6 ft sections.

 

 

Just something I remember from somewhere, and something I've seen.

 

That term, "combined weight" could come back to bite ya.

 

It seems I read a post here, or on another forum a year or so ago that someone had used the metal ramps like these to load a Venture. Like your's, they were rated at 500 lbs each. Don't remember the setup they used or the trailer height but in the end one of the ramps buckled under the weight and they dropped the bike. Didn't work out well for them.

 

Now I have seen a friend try the same thing with a 1800 GW and a set of HF ramps rated the same. He had made a support for the center with a hinge pin to attach the two 6" sections where the support was and give him a total of a 12' ramp. The support was high enough to change the pitch of the metal sections so he wouldn't high center at the support or at the trailer. Looked good.

 

He used 2 12' 2x10's, one on each side for balance. Weak spot there was where the ramps changed angles at the support point the 12' 2x10's did not. He would lose contact with his feet as he passed the center point. In the trial run he got past the center support ok but the weight of the bike started to bow the top section of ramp. He wasn't comfortable with it and neither was I acted as a spotter at the side of the bike

 

He ended up tossing the idea in the name of safety, and the love of his bike in one piece.

 

The one good thing that came out of it was his treatment of the 2x10's. He had rough sanded the wood and given it a heavy coat of paint. Then while the paint was wet he poured sand all over it and let the paint dry. Then shook off the remaining sand and another coat of paint. He ended up using them to load his kids quads. Had great traction wet or dry.

 

But just my wanderings on the subject.

[GolfVenture]

I think I'll go back to the drawing board for something less chancy.