Brakes Spongey

[KISSFAN]

I just got an '84 venture, got it to where it will be in tge road when I fix the brakes! However, the brakes are very spongey and it's hard to stop. Both front and rear are the same. I tried bleeding them and fluid came out of the rear and front right side if you are on the bike. The left one won't get fluid and they are still spongey. Any ideas? This bike was on the road last year..

[dacheedah]

isn't the front left connected to the rear, it could be the rear master has a valve thats not working or it needs to be rebuilt

[Black wing]

did you start bleeding it from the bleeder up at the neck under the handle bars and yes to get one of the sides to bleed the rear brake pedal operates it

[Condor]

I just got an '84 venture, got it to where it will be in tge road when I fix the brakes! However, the brakes are very spongey and it's hard to stop. Both front and rear are the same. I tried bleeding them and fluid came out of the rear and front right side if you are on the bike. The left one won't get fluid and they are still spongey. Any ideas? This bike was on the road last year..

 

You have air in the lines. Go to www.speedbleeder.com and replace the bleeder valves with 8125L's. It'll take 6 of them if you replace the valves in the Anti-Dives. Otherwise you'll only need 4 including the clutch. Also you won't get any fluid out of the front left if you're using the brake lever on grip. It will come out using the foot pedal. See next.

 

isn't the front left connected to the rear, it could be the rear master has a valve thats not working or it needs to be rebuilt

 

 

Yep

 

 

 

did you start bleeding it from the bleeder up at the neck under the handle bars and yes to get one of the sides to bleed the rear brake pedal operates it

 

On the '84 it doesn't have the top bleeder. It came about in the '86 model year. The spongyness is due to air in the lines.

[GaryZ]

I would add that old brake fluid will feel spongy.

It is a very good idea to regularly replace your brake and clutch fluid.

 

I use a plastic tube from the bleeder to a clear jar and simply pump the fresh fluid in and watch the old fluid come out. Keep filling the master and no air will get in the system.

 

[KISSFAN]

Hot the brakes to pass inspection.. Would like them to be a bit better though. They aren't how they should be.. Just curious on how to add the rear fluid.. Looks like a real pain.

[abusive throttle cranker]

Just get a cheap little baster. I imagine they are at the hardware store. I got one from a friend who teaches at HeadStart.

[bongobobny]

The unfortunate truth is the MK1 brakes were not the greatest! This is why they changed them on the MK2. To do the job right to include the rear caliper as well it gets a little tricky. Just doing the front brakes is pretty much straight forward, just get MK2 forks and switch them over, direct bolt on. Then you can install the 4 piston calipers from a MK2 or better yet, from an R1. You have to change the rotors to MK2 rotors as well. Adding SS lines finishes the job, asnd if you do, get the MK2 set of lines as you will no longer need the short ones for the brake robbing hydraulic anti dive solenoids as the MK2 anti dive is electric. Also with the MK2 lines you will then have the bleeder on the line at the high point near the battery. As mentioned, speed bleeders and a vacuum pump are our friends!!

The last thing to do if you convert is to wire up the anti dive solenoids. Eassy job, get a relay and use the yellow brake line to trigger the primary of the relay to ground. Tie the white wires together to the secondary of the relay and bring 12 volts to the other secondary contact. Ground the black wires from the solenoids and you're done!!!