onenut Posted February 8, 2013 #1 Posted February 8, 2013 Ok oil is changed plugs are changed ordered new back tire rear shock is holding air bypassed the class now front wont hold air hince I ordered new progressive springs for front bled the brakes clutch is next to bleed it is running better and started it on stand and held brake it would take off in first now with less rpm anything else to check?????? I live in north east pa anyone close enough to help rebuild forks when the springs come
bongobobny Posted February 8, 2013 #2 Posted February 8, 2013 You can actually add air to the front with progressive springs if you are a high pockets. Most of us are shorties and it is a tall bike so we really don't want the bike any taller, and with the variable rate progressives there is not any need for the extra stiffness the air provides. That's why it was mentioned that air isn't needed. Keep us posted on your progress. If you are just replacing the springs it's pretty easy but if you are going to be replacing bushings etc you need some "special" tools to get the shock completely apart. One of the special tools is just a metric socket on a really long tee handle...
onenut Posted February 9, 2013 Author #3 Posted February 9, 2013 Well I am 5'7'' with about a 29 inseam so don't think I will be needing air in them two more ?s though one is really dumb but since I am a newbie to the venture on the dash idiot lights what is the light looks like a water drop in a circle for and any idea if a air line off the second gen will fit the rear stock shock on my first gen the shock is holding air good want something dependable to adjust the rear air any help is really appreciated
cimmer Posted February 9, 2013 #4 Posted February 9, 2013 If your front forks are not leaking I would just replace the springs and see how that goes. It is very easy to do and I believe there is an article in the 1st Gen Tech Library on how to do it. Good Luck.. Rick F.
onenut Posted February 10, 2013 Author #5 Posted February 10, 2013 Ok I have to say it you guys have been great with answering ?s I have been able to get any info I needed so far off this sight got the back wheel off tonight new leds in motor area lights it up nicely hoping tire is in monday now just some spit and polish waiting for new mirrors went after market I am very broad shouldered hope it will help me see better behind me and the progressive springs are ordered for the front so far price of bike, parts,and all my own labor I have a 88 royale with 37000 miles for about $2100 waiting for warm weather now:backinmyday: old man winter needs to leave nepa
bongobobny Posted February 10, 2013 #6 Posted February 10, 2013 You are doing good cost wise, it should be worth 3K to 4K with all the bugs worked out. Any old bike needs some kind of work done to it. These bikes are very reliable and last a long time. Several of them have gone over 200,000 miles, I think I can remember someone getting over 300,000. The only possible issues you may have will be failure of the ignition unit or the TCI. Member Dingy sells aftermarket units that work great. The diaphragms on the carbs develop pinholes and improperly stored carbs get all plugged up. I have a video you can borrow about how to properly rebuild your carbs, but parts get expensive but it is worth it. Large doseages of Seafoam work miricles...
onenut Posted February 10, 2013 Author #7 Posted February 10, 2013 Thanks bob nice to know they will go the mile just dieing to get on it and go still looking for couple parts need rubber boot that fits over the mount for the mirror on right side and the cover that holds the stereo and cassette units mine has a corner broke off the bottom if any one has those please let me know
bongobobny Posted February 10, 2013 #8 Posted February 10, 2013 Might have both, I'll check later this afternoon...
onenut Posted February 11, 2013 Author #9 Posted February 11, 2013 almost done new mirrors on pick up tire tomorrow new progressive springs came in today so tomorrow get tire on and springs in try it out if it doesn't snow
GaryZ Posted February 12, 2013 #10 Posted February 12, 2013 You can actually add air to the front with progressive springs if you are a high pockets. Most of us are shorties and it is a tall bike so we really don't want the bike any taller, and with the variable rate progressives there is not any need for the extra stiffness the air provides. That's why it was mentioned that air isn't needed. I have Progressives and on two occasions I have added air to the front. Both times I needed the extra ground clearance to keep my mufflers off the pavement in turns
onenut Posted February 12, 2013 Author #11 Posted February 12, 2013 Ok progressive springs are in the front brakes are good all the lines are bleed all fluids are changed new back tire all I need now is a windshield any help on that onewould be great if any one has one laying around right now at about $2200 invested in the bike including the cost not bad I don't think
onenut Posted February 13, 2013 Author #12 Posted February 13, 2013 Well got it all back together and decided to start it up head light quits. Tearing it apart getting ready to start tracing wires thought go see if there is a post about it. Turns out it was just the starter switch sticking. Now have to get it legal and try it out.
onenut Posted February 19, 2013 Author #13 Posted February 19, 2013 Bike is done new windshield on it today come on spring [ATTACH]74173[/ATTACH]
Yammer Dan Posted February 19, 2013 #14 Posted February 19, 2013 Wax that sheild! Make it last. Pledge works great to clean them but I use whatever wax on hand. Put a good coat of wax on it before that 1st ride. If you had a old cloudy one try some wax on it. Might be surprised.
onenut Posted February 19, 2013 Author #15 Posted February 19, 2013 The one I got is new so no cloudiness but I'll try a little wax
Snaggletooth Posted February 19, 2013 #16 Posted February 19, 2013 (edited) Looking good Tim. Progress is great isn't it. And now no bugs in your teeth! Unless you're into snacking on those critters. Mike Note: Thought I'd give ya lil boost on your pic. Since you're feeling good. Edited February 19, 2013 by Snaggletooth
onenut Posted February 20, 2013 Author #17 Posted February 20, 2013 I enjoyed this project so much wish I had another to do. Added it up today $1600 to purchase bike oil change, spark plugs, bulbs, new progressive springs, bypass the class for the rear, new rear tire, and windshield was about $500 so around $2100 into my 88 royale. Did all my own wrenching only thing that went to the shop was the rear wheel to get mount and balance given the chance I'd do it again just for fun. Even though some days were more:confused07:
bongobobny Posted February 20, 2013 #18 Posted February 20, 2013 $2100 for a running '88 is a darn good deal! I'd rather not admit just how much I've sunk into my '84 but then again, everything is now brand new except the engine, and that's going to happen! I paid $2700 for it 6 years ago and have over twice that in it by now...
PBJ Posted February 20, 2013 #19 Posted February 20, 2013 I've just been following this thread and you did great. I picked up my 87 last year and got look with only to have to work out the cobb webs and mouse nests. if had been sitting for the better part of 5 years( previous owner had died). Paid $2500 for mine. Needed the brakes bleed, and the engine run good to get the idle set. I think I'm going to transfer over the progressives from my 85. Great job on the bike hope to see you up this way this summer.
onenut Posted February 23, 2013 Author #20 Posted February 23, 2013 Ok now I've read the post looked at the pics of the progressives install for the front. Didn't take pics wish I would of the bolt and two nuts locked together worked great for getting the caps off. Now for the spacer I didn't use the provided spacer when you take out the original parts the is a aluminum spacer under the cap then a long steel spacer with a curved washer that goes into the springs. I turned the washer over to fit into the aluminum spacer and reinstalled it on top of the progressive spring and it worked perfect was just long enough to get the springs down past the threads. Now I figure the aluminum spacer has two advantages it is a tight fit into the fork tube and is not going to shift around or wear uneven from any rough road and I didn't have to worry about having uneven spacers on each side. Also I did have the front off the ground and had no trouble getting the cap back on during reassembly. Just wondered if anybody else had thought of using this method of spacer instead of the pvc that is included. Just food for tought.
reddevilmedic Posted February 23, 2013 #21 Posted February 23, 2013 i just went per instructions. full pvc spacer, but im tall, and enjoy the nose higher. great job with all the work you accomplished...in a short time. see ya on the roads!
KenP Posted February 23, 2013 #22 Posted February 23, 2013 Ok oil is changed plugs are changed ordered new back tire rear shock is holding air bypassed the class now front wont hold air hince I ordered new progressive springs for front bled the brakes clutch is next to bleed it is running better and started it on stand and held brake it would take off in first now with less rpm anything else to check?????? I live in north east pa anyone close enough to help rebuild forks when the springs come Rear driveshaft + pumpkin?
onenut Posted February 23, 2013 Author #23 Posted February 23, 2013 did the rear when I removed the tire for new tire install changed the gear lube in rear greased the splines and axle before putting it all back together with the new tire. It is all done now just doing some upgrades lined the bottom of trunk and saddlebags with the belt off an old treadmill wired in a 400 watt power inverter in trunk it has a usb output in it now thinking about lining the rest of the trunk. [ATTACH]74260[/ATTACH] all back together ready to go.
onenut Posted March 1, 2013 Author #24 Posted March 1, 2013 so doing the chevron techron soak go out today and one carb is just pouring out the gas took the airbox off and can see the gas coming out every time I turn on the ignition so try tapping on it pour more cleaner in the overflow blow through it still coming out so go old school turn on the air compressor and start blowing in the holes every one I could find finally got it to stop.So hopefully tomorrow it is still good to go think I'll get a new filter before it plugs up again. got it all put back together someone else must have had it apart cause only one screw was holding in the piece under the air filter. Oh yeah got the bike back together after the rear tire nothing like a leaking valve stem leaking after all that work got it fixed without taking back apart thank god
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